IDEA-Web links saved for various parts

Nice thread. I have a bunch of links and part numbers on my home computer, will add to this if there's anything I have that doesn't overlap.

GT Spec:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-1025/GTSPEC-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail

 

Primitive:

http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/skidplate/skid_legacy.htm

 

Rallitek:

http://www.rallitek.com/Skid-Plate-Legacy-Turbo-2005-2009Impreza-Turbo-2008-2013/p-4352

 

another skid plate option -

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125720-light-bar-brush-guard-bull-bar-skid-plate/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

Without water pump-black replacement belt:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-75/Gates-Racing-Subaru-Timing/Detail

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/gates-racing-timing-belt-belt-kit.html

Without water pump-blue kevlar racing belt:

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-611/Gates-Racing-Subaru-Timing/Detail

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/gates-racing-subaru-timing-kit-s-with-kevlar-racing-timing-belt.html

Edited January 23, 2014 by JmP6889928

RX-8 Larger Oil Filters:

 

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-rx8-oil-filter.html

Edited January 24, 2014 by LatentWagen

Most of my parts links were covered/dead, but can I interest you in some useful information??

Tech Docs:

 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths (Brakes)

 

http://www.xcceleration.com/wheel.chart.htm (Wheels)

 

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets5.html (Suspension)

 

http://www.davidandjemma.com/mazda/FAQ/quench.htm (ICE)

 

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm (ICE)

Edited January 24, 2014 by LatentWagen

Good stuff all. Please make sure and title the post and that way in the search it will come up easier.

http://www.raamaudio.com/

 

http://cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm

 

http://www.dynamat.com/

 

http://www.b-quiet.com/?gclid=CO-hy9Dol7wCFaZAMgodPnEArA

 

http://www.soundproofcow.com/Dampening-and-Deadening/?gclid=CJ2D5-Xol7wCFY1cMgod83oAew

 

http://www.fatmat.com/

 

If you google most of the products above, you can find various sources for purchase. Compare pricing and product and make your choice.

Turkeylord's fuel pump wiring mod:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570.html

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/plug-n-play-aux-mod-2005-6cd-radios-18504.html

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4278790&postcount=60

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/

 

Around the same price as OEM. But it 3x strong & can be 100% rebuildable for pennies on the dollar.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1387540&postcount=87

http://gtboostgauge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=32

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vent-boost-gauge-digital-led-bars-numerics-125083.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4445721&postcount=1292

Thanks to Fultonhow for the links

http://www.grimmspeed.com/crank-pulley-removal-tool-subaru/

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1390296&cc=1432596

DO YOUR HOMEWORK. THERE ARE MANY OPTIONS ON THESE BUT THE ONES LISTED BELOW ARE KNOWN TO WORK. IF YOU PURCHASE AN OFF BRAND OR HOUSE BRAND OF HUB AND IT DOESN'T WORK, YOU HAVE TRIED TO CHEAP YOUR WAY OUT AND YOU WILL PAY FOR IT WITH FITMENT ISSUES AND ABS LIGHTS ON.

THERE ARE OTHER BRANDS THAT ARE OK IF YOU CAN FIND THEM (NTN, KOYO, FAG, TOYO, ETC.) BUT THEY ARE DIFFICULT TO OBTAIN.

TIMKEN:

Front #: HA590118

Rear #: HA590119

Both of these available at Autozone

 

SKF:

Front #: BR930473

Rear #: BR930474

 

BCA NATIONAL:

Front #: 18220-07060464* Lists specifically GT

Rear #: 18220-07060289* Lists specifically GT

 

NSK:

Front #:

Rear #: W0133-1805930*

NSK is an OE supplier to a LOT of different manufacturers for a lot of different bearing applications.

 

BECK/ARNLEY:

Front #: 18220-05217518*

Rear #: 18220-05217523*

OE FROM AMAZON: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-Bearing-Assembly-2005-2013/dp/B008XLICYO]Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

GMB FROM AMAZON: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/GMB-799-0299-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B004QHNBH2/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Legacy|64&Year=2005|2005&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive#productDetails]Amazon.com: GMB 799-0299 Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame]

GMB is an OE supplier of a LOT of bearings and they do appear to be inexpensive.

 

*Part numbers are from Parts Geek

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/subaru/legacy/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html

 

One member said he ordered all 4 HBA from a company called Detroit Axle on ebay for $168.48 and installed them with no issues with either ABS or cruise control. There is also posted information from both a representative of Detroit Axle and MOOG concerning their HBA and the Legacy application. Good information and if you're on a strict budget, perhaps the way to go for you.

Here is his thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/success-non-oem-wheel-hub-bearing-units-221269.html

 

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

 

Information stolen from another thread and posted by member Sensation from NZ who works for a company that specializes in hub/bearing assemblies and here is a good description of several manufacturers:

 

"Thought i'd chip in my 2 cents worth.

 

I work for a company called SAECOWilson, one of NZ's biggest bearing supplier and are sister company to a few big bearing companies across Australia also.

Timken - One of the best in the world, they manufacture their own bearing steel and sell their steel to other bearing companies. They're built strong and no bearing leaves their factory without each going through an xray, crack tester, harmonic test etc.

NTN - Manufactured in two plants, one in Japan and one in Taiwan. The Taiwanese bearings are still under the same build quality and control as the Japanese ones. NTN make alot of bearings for OEM, such as A/C pumps, Idlers and Tensioners and alot of wheel bearings. They also supply most of the CV joints and universal joints across the automotive world.

KOYO - Another big OEM supplier out of Japan, Honda use Koyo as their supplier for all of their wheel bearings, i'm pretty sure Nissan and Mitsubishi follow suite.

SKF - Another good quality player, they have slipped over the years but are still none the less a great bearing. They're made across a few different countries, USA, Romania, Germany and England.

Nachi - Japanese made, great quality control and also an OEM supplier for A/C pumps, idlers etc.

NSK - One of the bigger names in the industrial world, they supply a little of the OEM automotive world but mostly are known for their industrial units. Such as their spherical rollers, slewing rings and linear motion.

 

I would use any of them in my cars, whether it's my daily or any race car i've built. One thing I would recommend is asking your shop where they buy them from, explain it's not so you can go look for a cheaper price but so you can guarantee they're a genuine item. We have a big issue in NZ, where some competitors were selling a NSK wheel bearing kit for $20 when it would be 100% impossible, as even our price from NSK (we're the only NSK agent in NZ) is more than that, and it turned out they were just Chinese bearings in an NSK box.

 

Hope you found this helpful, I'm only a new member here but thought I'd do my bit to shed some light on what is general maintenance and could help keep disaster from happening. :)"

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wheel-bearings-oem-after-marketi-222105p3.html

Post #35

 

Also, a LOT of success with the Detroit Axle hub/bearing assemblies both in the front and rear and they appear to be, without a doubt, the best price no matter where you find them. If you search that thread listed above, you can find success after success at a fraction of a price of the OE assemblies.

 

UPDATE FROM MAX CAPACITY-Thanks Max

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA590315-Wheel-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B0031HRJ5S/?tag=viglink20901-20]Amazon.com: Timken HA590315 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly: Automotive[/ame]

Edited August 17, 2015 by JmP6889928

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4387413&postcount=31

 

Part#'s are right off the box.

Edited January 28, 2014 by HAMMER DOWN

http://www.gromaudio.com/store/bt3_adapters/subaru_05-09_aux-in_mp3_bluetooth_ipod_iphone_adapter.html

 

P-204UH & P206UH 2007-09 head-units with aux-in, head-units will fit 2005-09 LGT's.

Edited February 16, 2014 by JJr

Stickied. Keep the info flowing.

Osram H7 65W Rallye bulbs

 

http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

http://www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/AWDCOM131.htm

 

Have not used this so can't give testament to how well it works but it looks like it would work well.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=subaru+cam+tool&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=25959907117&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4088402172121314473&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5hhg0h8f5o_b

 

A BUNCH of different cam tools.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4366413&postcount=158

 

Hammerdown's thread showing the "Vise Grip" way to do it.

 

UPDATE ! ! I personally purchased the Company 23 cam gear tool below for locking the cams in place for timing belt replacement and I have to tell you that it worked flawlessly in every way. It's very simple to adjust, very simple to line up, very simple to lock into place, and very simple to remove once you have the belt on. I know for fact that this saved me a TON of time in putting the belt on. No issues because nothing could move at all. If you're replacing a timing belt that's already installed, simply insert the tool into both of the gears after lining everything up BEFORE removing your old belt and tighten it into place. Slip your belt off and you're all set to put the new one back on. I give it 5 stars. *****

 

http://cdn3.volusion.com/hqwdm.vmwpm/v/vspfiles/photos/AWDCOM131-2T.jpg?1395298159

Edited June 15, 2014 by JmP6889928

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FKPJJNY/?tag=vglnkc6475-20]Cutequeen Trading 2PCS White 5050 48SMD 48-SMD LED Panel Dome Light Lamp + T10 BA9S Festoon Adapter (pack of 2) : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

 

As per dahoseman these significantly improved his interior lighting.

 

Diode Dynamics-forum member and vendor:

 

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-vehicle/subaru/legacy.html

Edited February 17, 2014 by JmP6889928

All of the AVO and Whiteline LCA bushings as well as just about every other chassis/suspension parts (Cusco, EPIC, GT Spec, H&R, Hotchkis, ISC, Kartboy, KONI, KW, KYB, Perrin, Rally Armour, SPC, OE Subaru, Tein, Torque Solutions) are available here:

 

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-2005-Legacy-GT-cln-Chassis-fdsh-Suspension/Categories

 

You can also look here and find just about ANYTHING you would need for suspension and brakes:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/suspension-brakes-115.html

 

Lots of stuff here for you East Coasters too:

 

http://azpinstalls.com/web/index.php/products

 

Prothane kit for suspension:

 

http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Subaru+Legacy+2005

Edited February 2, 2014 by JmP6889928

http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4713815&postcount=22163 - Can't find the original reference or source.

 

SBT say's

 

I use SeeeeeYa's cocktail which comprises:

 

• Acetone
  
• Marvel Mystery Oil
  
• Chevron Techron
  

I buy the fluids in 1 gallon containers, then mix-up three (3), 12oz batches at a time.

 

How to mix and use:

• Pour 4oz of each fluid into three spare additive cans/bottles at a time -this makes three (3) 12oz bottles (36oz total). FWIW, I use Brianna Salad Dressing (superb dressing BTW) bottles because they're compact, and the tapered neck makes it easy to pour into the tank
  
• First use - Add one 12oz can to an empty tank, then fill-up,
  
• Second use - Add one 12oz can to a 1/2 empty tank, run it until empty
  
• Third use - Refill then add one 12oz can to the full tank.
  

Thereafter, I just add it to every other oil change, then fill and drive. Amazing stuff. Definitely runs smoother and it cleans and lubricates your injectors, your valves, cylinders and any cat-converter(s). And it's much cheaper per oz than anything you get at the autoparts stores.