praedet Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 So, this thread documents my problem installing a SpecB Control Arm, and the fix. This new thread is to help fix the problem caused by the Control Arm install... Basically the knuckle that the ball joint goes into is cracked. The bolt that tightens that knuckle is all the way tight, holding the ball joint in place, but there is a crack in the metal, so I have to replace the hub assembly. For those trying to figure out what I am talking about, it is the large metal piece that the brake caliper bolts too, the axle runs through, the ball joint attaches to, and the toe rod for the steering attaches to... It was cracked by the guy helping me put in the control arms. I was doing this at a Auto Hobby Shop on an Air Force Base and they have mechanics on staff to help. He broke it by forcing the knuckle open too wide Part of working their is you sign a waiver that the Shop, nor the mechanics, are liable for any problems that arise there Anyway, I have a new piece on the way, but Manuel does not seem to have any answers for me about the install. Anybody done this before? Can I do this myself with regular tools? Please help part deux... Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Are you talking about #2? If so it is more of the same. Getting the front axle out can be difficult (or it can be easy....). Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 Yep, #2... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy2005 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 dam....what kinda mechanic worked on the car a money? knuckle/ball joints are easy to seperate, all it takes is 2 hammers and some elbow grease. since the damage is allrdy done taking the old one out will be easy. putting the new one on is the reverse of taking it off. best way ive found to push the axles out of the hubs is an air hammer with a tapered punch on it, drives them right out. Work hard. Play even harder. My Garage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 Yeah, I was pretty pissed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 Anymore thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Not much you can do now, other than replace the knuckle. That is a big chuck of cast iron, exactly what the heck did the mechanic do to crack it?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 Force it so far open with a pry bar that the bolt would not go back in, then draw it back togeher with a C-clamp... Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Force it so far open with a pry bar that the bolt would not go back in, then draw it back togeher with a C-clamp... Ted Nice one Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Force it so far open with a pry bar that the bolt would not go back in, then draw it back togeher with a C-clamp... Ted DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 well, busted knuckle is a busted knuckle.. nothing you can do about that but to put another one on... Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 Car is fixed I wimped out and paid a guy that all my coworkers recommend to fix it. $120 for the part, $20 for the overnight express, and $50 for the install... I was just very worried that I would get to a place I couldn't fix. My wife is out of town, so I only have access to the LGT right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Car is fixed I wimped out and paid a guy that all my coworkers recommend to fix it. $120 for the part, $20 for the overnight express, and $50 for the install... I was just very worried that I would get to a place I couldn't fix. My wife is out of town, so I only have access to the LGT right now... Yippeeeee, now start driving the crap out of your car so we can get more feedback. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 This is what the guy did... http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/Suspension/IdiotBrokenKnuckle1.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/Suspension/IdiotBrokenKnuckle2.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/Suspension/IdiotBrokenKnuckle3.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Excellent photos. They clearly show why removing the BJ can be such a PITA. First you have to break the rust bond that almost welds the BJ to the knuckle socket. And then the second obstacle is getting the BJ past the thick circular ridge of rust that exists half way into the socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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