2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 After installing an amp in my 2005 legacy GT, I went to test it out and had absolutely no sound, the only wires I touched were the factory speaker wires in the front doors, after install I ran a multi meter over all the connections and had good voltage on everything. I am stumped on where it could have gone wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaMax Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Well if you are getting correct voltage on the speakers then whatever you added on to get the amp to work is either wired wrong or not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 I've been over the entire thing like 5 times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVXdc Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Test each portion of your wiring separately, to narrow down the location of the problem: Use a voltmeter to verify you're getting +12V to the amp's power lead, and +12V on the amp's remote trigger input (when your ignition key is at ACC or ON). And/or see an "on" indicator lamp on the amp. Power off. Disconnect all of the speaker wires from your amp. Temporarily connect each pair of wires (one speaker at a time) to the speaker output of some portable device (such as a portable radio). If all of those work, reconnect the wires to your amp. If that checks, disconnect the wires from the amp's input, and temporarily connect some device that has line-level outputs (e.g., a CD or DVD player with an audio CD). Verify that the amp plays that on all the speakers you've connected to the amp's outputs. How did you connect your factory HU to the amp's inputs? Where did you tie into the HU's speaker outputs? Did you use a Line Output Converter (LOC)? If everything from the amp to the speakers checks out, get a spare speaker and connect to the speaker signals coming from your HU (just before where they connect to the amp or LOC). Verify you're getting good signals from the HU. Your problem will likely be in one of those areas. One common problem is that if the amp sees that one of the speakers or its wiring appears to be shorted, the amp will shut down to protect itself. Some amps have a lamp to show that has happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 I have checked all connection points with the voltmeter all +12V at battery, at fuse, at amp. I connected the factory HU to the amp through the amps built in LOC using the speaker wire at the factory speaker location. The amp itself is only connected to the front 2 speakers, but none of the speakers in the car work (Front or Rear) I will try the suggestions you mentions sometime over this holiday break. Thank you for the Reply and Information! -Tyler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaMax Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 What are unit are you using to add in the amp. on my buddies 06 he is using a PAC unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 The amp has a built in loc, the amp is a jbl ms-1004 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I'm not sure I understand how you hooked up the amp to the HU. You say you used the factory speaker wire from the factory speaker location? So...you ran wire from the door speaker location into the car to the amp's input, then ran new wire back into the door to power the speaker? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 yes that is how its ran Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaMax Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Uhh i'm not an audio person but I think all you needed to do is splice into the front Left and Front Right speakers at the connector behind the radio. Nothing else was needed. That is how my buddy wired his PAC unit for his AMP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 I'm going to use t-taps on the back harnesses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Well, if that's really all you touched, then I'd re-check your connections where you added on to the original speaker wire. If one of the HU's outputs is shorting somewhere, it could put the HU's amp into protect mode, which would cause none of the speakers to work. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Well, if that's really all you touched, then I'd re-check your connections where you added on to the original speaker wire. If one of the HU's outputs is shorting somewhere, it could put the HU's amp into protect mode, which would cause none of the speakers to work. thats what I am hoping for, I'm going to check everything on my next day off (I hope I get one of those soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 It seems a little wasteful (and complicated) to pick up the speaker connections in the door, run then to the amp and then back into the door. Most people struggle to get one speaker wire pair through the door boots, let alone two pairs. SVXdc (he posted above) has the forward and revers harnesses available. This gives you a perfect place to pick up the speaker level output from the headunit then return it back to the speakers all in one place behind the head unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 sent email about this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Most people struggle to get one speaker wire pair through the door boots, let alone two pairs. QFT. That's why I asked to confirm how the wiring was done. Granted, getting the second pair through should just require taping it to the first and pulling it through, it was still the hardest door to run wire into that I've encountered. I used SVXdc's harness to get the signal to my amp, but ran my own wires back to the speakers. I run more power than I'd want on the factory wires. With the OP's amp, if he's got it bridged on the front speakers, that's 200 watts RMS per channel, which is more than I'd want on the factory speaker wires. OP: If you're considering redoing the install, I'd recommend using the harnesses to get the signal to the amp, but use the aftermarket wire you've already run to power the speakers. A 9-conductor cable would be a nice thing to have too to run from the HU to the amp. My $0.02. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 I got the wire through the door fairly easy, but I had to run 3 sets, as im going to an active setup, but I would love to get the correct harness and make the wiring that much easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000_LegacyOutback Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 problem solved... it was just bad speaker wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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