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HELP!!!!! No sound coming from speakers


2000_LegacyOutback

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After installing an amp in my 2005 legacy GT, I went to test it out and had absolutely no sound, the only wires I touched were the factory speaker wires in the front doors, after install I ran a multi meter over all the connections and had good voltage on everything. I am stumped on where it could have gone wrong.
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Test each portion of your wiring separately, to narrow down the location of the problem:

 

Use a voltmeter to verify you're getting +12V to the amp's power lead, and +12V on the amp's remote trigger input (when your ignition key is at ACC or ON). And/or see an "on" indicator lamp on the amp.

 

Power off. Disconnect all of the speaker wires from your amp. Temporarily connect each pair of wires (one speaker at a time) to the speaker output of some portable device (such as a portable radio).

 

If all of those work, reconnect the wires to your amp.

 

If that checks, disconnect the wires from the amp's input, and temporarily connect some device that has line-level outputs (e.g., a CD or DVD player with an audio CD). Verify that the amp plays that on all the speakers you've connected to the amp's outputs.

 

How did you connect your factory HU to the amp's inputs? Where did you tie into the HU's speaker outputs? Did you use a Line Output Converter (LOC)?

 

If everything from the amp to the speakers checks out, get a spare speaker and connect to the speaker signals coming from your HU (just before where they connect to the amp or LOC). Verify you're getting good signals from the HU.

 

Your problem will likely be in one of those areas.

 

One common problem is that if the amp sees that one of the speakers or its wiring appears to be shorted, the amp will shut down to protect itself. Some amps have a lamp to show that has happened.

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I have checked all connection points with the voltmeter all +12V at battery, at fuse, at amp.

 

I connected the factory HU to the amp through the amps built in LOC using the speaker wire at the factory speaker location.

 

The amp itself is only connected to the front 2 speakers, but none of the speakers in the car work (Front or Rear)

 

I will try the suggestions you mentions sometime over this holiday break.

 

Thank you for the Reply and Information!

-Tyler

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I'm not sure I understand how you hooked up the amp to the HU. You say you used the factory speaker wire from the factory speaker location? So...you ran wire from the door speaker location into the car to the amp's input, then ran new wire back into the door to power the speaker?
MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Uhh i'm not an audio person but I think all you needed to do is splice into the front Left and Front Right speakers at the connector behind the radio. Nothing else was needed. That is how my buddy wired his PAC unit for his AMP.
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Well, if that's really all you touched, then I'd re-check your connections where you added on to the original speaker wire. If one of the HU's outputs is shorting somewhere, it could put the HU's amp into protect mode, which would cause none of the speakers to work.
MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Well, if that's really all you touched, then I'd re-check your connections where you added on to the original speaker wire. If one of the HU's outputs is shorting somewhere, it could put the HU's amp into protect mode, which would cause none of the speakers to work.

 

thats what I am hoping for, I'm going to check everything on my next day off (I hope I get one of those soon) :spin:

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It seems a little wasteful (and complicated) to pick up the speaker connections in the door, run then to the amp and then back into the door. Most people struggle to get one speaker wire pair through the door boots, let alone two pairs.

 

SVXdc (he posted above) has the forward and revers harnesses available. This gives you a perfect place to pick up the speaker level output from the headunit then return it back to the speakers all in one place behind the head unit.

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Most people struggle to get one speaker wire pair through the door boots, let alone two pairs.

 

QFT. That's why I asked to confirm how the wiring was done. Granted, getting the second pair through should just require taping it to the first and pulling it through, it was still the hardest door to run wire into that I've encountered.

 

I used SVXdc's harness to get the signal to my amp, but ran my own wires back to the speakers. I run more power than I'd want on the factory wires. With the OP's amp, if he's got it bridged on the front speakers, that's 200 watts RMS per channel, which is more than I'd want on the factory speaker wires.

 

OP: If you're considering redoing the install, I'd recommend using the harnesses to get the signal to the amp, but use the aftermarket wire you've already run to power the speakers. A 9-conductor cable would be a nice thing to have too to run from the HU to the amp. My $0.02.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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