HELP - Brakes not functioning correctly after upgrade

Back-story:

 

Car = 2008 Legacy Spec B with ±56k well taken care of.

 

 

Car was at dealership for service during their however many point check they said they felt the front drivers side rotor was warped. As the brakes were approaching the end of their life i chose to handle the issue myself.

 

New work:

 

Replaced front and rear rotors with Slotted DBA Street Series with Hawk HPS all the way around. I also decided to flush the system and replace the fluid with Motul RBF 600. I preformed the bleeding and/or fluid replacement with a Mityvac brake bleeding kit. Therefore, the system should not have air in it.

 

 

 

The issue(s): (The master cylinder was never empty)

 

1. The calibers are not bleeding correctly. There is not free flowing fluid. In fact, I am hardly getting any fluid at all. The bleeders are not clogged I have tested that. I have read online that sometimes when using a bleeder pump it is possible for the ABS actuator to become frozen not letting brake fluid through. Do any of you guys have any ideas to resolve the issue?
   
2. The front driver's side caliber is currently not functioning. I am thinking I may have had a faulty piston that may have caused the original warped rotor. Could this be caused by the fluid issue or should i rebuild the caliber?
   

Thank you for any input.

bleed them manually with a helper.

I've never had luck eith the vacuum bleeders, so I would agree with bleeding them normally. Also it is a caliper.

The issue(s): (The master cylinder was never empty)

 

1. The calibers are not bleeding correctly. There is not free flowing fluid. In fact, I am hardly getting any fluid at all. The bleeders are not clogged I have tested that. I have read online that sometimes when using a bleeder pump it is possible for the ABS actuator to become frozen not letting brake fluid through. Do any of you guys have any ideas to resolve the issue?
   
2. The front driver's side caliber is currently not functioning. I am thinking I may have had a faulty piston that may have caused the original warped rotor. Could this be caused by the fluid issue or should i rebuild the caliber?

1. I haven't used a bleeder pump, but a one-man bleeder is fairly inexpensive and can be usedto verify if you're having flow issues. There are a lot of walkthroughs on this. Just make sure that the brake pedal doesn't go all the way to floor.

2. Assuming that you compressed the caliper yourself, it either needs to be replaced or rebuilt (if you know how). I had a similar issue with my driver side caliper. I recommend that you replace/rebuild before going through the full bleed cycle (except to test for flow).

 

If you do end up draining the system, don't fret. Bleeding the master cylinder is not difficult, but it is time consuming. I went through a whole bottle to ensure the system was filled.

Never had much luck with vac bleeders. Love, love, love push bleeders though. There are a few out there, but i use the motive power bleed. Have different caps so i can use it on my subies and jeeps/ others.

 

Re: ABS - it can absolutely cause problems bleeding/trapping air, especially if you compressed the caliper on the car... forcing the fluid backwards can sometimes get the abs solenoid to act funky. My jeep had the issue you're having... vac bleed got me nowhere, and the push bleed was meeting with a ton of resistance - i had to drip bleed it for a few hours for it to work it's way through (leave bleeder a tad open, with an uphill hose off the nipple for a few inches, before turning down to a bucket - prevents air, but still allows gravity bleed. speed should be "drippy faucet" slow, or you'll just keep pushing air bubbles around.)

Def prefer doing it manually than with a vac. That way you always know what's going on. You can make a one person bleeder out of an old engine vacuum hose and a Pepsi bottle. I used one for years at the dealership.

 

Many times if your having a lot of trouble getting the calipers to bleed correctly, there is a small unknown leak at the master cylinder. Usually like a loose line.

I've got the Mityvac power bleeder and absolutely love it. I can flush the whole brake system is a few minutes after hooking everything up. Makes bleeding the brakes by yourself very easy, and have always worked flawlessly for me. I have not had such high success with vacuum bleeder systems. Manual bleeding also always works, but is slower and takes two people to do.