gripforce f1 rotors

Rotors –

Buy good rotors. Not unknown cheapy ebay ones that you have no idea who made them.

Slotted – not really necessary unless you are heavily racing in the rain

Drilled – NO NO NO a thousand times NO!

Just pulled that straight from the sticky a few posts above yours.

But let us know how it turns out!

^+1000000000000

forget the look of drilled rotors, the disadvantages far outweigh the 'style' aspect.

And never heard of "gripforce f1", but sounds like a pretty good name as far as ebay marketing from no name manufacturers goes lol.

but on a serious note, I run R1 concepts (also an ebay brand) slotted rears and have been pretty impressed so far. Just make sure you get yourself a set of good pads to go along with whatever rotors you decide on (love my hawk HPS's, search them up, many members run them). Stainless braided lines would also greatly improve pedal feel/responsiveness.

GL bro, hope this somewhat helped your decision making.

Ive never had any experience with them myself, but I personally wouldnt cheap out on something as important as brakes. They are literally a lifesaver.

I love my DBA's. Yes, they're pricey compared to others but the quality and peace of mind is certainly there. If cost is a concern I'd go with PowerSlot and order from TireRack for their customer service.

I road race my car and use the Centric non-slotted, non-drilled rotors. They last 90% as long as the DBA 4000s and cost less than 50%. Pads I use are Hawk HP+.

For most of our customers we suggest Hawk HPS and Centrics, a great combo at an affordable price.

-mike

I road race my car and use the Centric non-slotted, non-drilled rotors. They last 90% as long as the DBA 4000s and cost less than 50%. Pads I use are Hawk HP+.

 

For most of our customers we suggest Hawk HPS and Centrics, a great combo at an affordable price.

 

-mike

I've been debating a set of Centric premiums vs the Stoptech slotted or cryo slotted for a few weeks now. Unfortunately I need to do a clutch first but the brakes are coming right up for me as mine are vibrating pretty bad.

I don't do any track events at all but I do a lot of tuning which consists of a lot of wot pulls and subsequent quick slow downs to get back to reasonable speed. This is what ruined my oem setup. I'm looking to get something that will lessen the chances of this happening going forward. I was looking at the Stoptech pads as well to go with whatever rotor choice I go for.

The Stoptech pads have been reported to be below the HPS in terms of stopping power/bite, also some guys on the 3GWRX.com forum have been reporting that they seem to have a reaction with rainwater and cause pad deposits to form. I haven't experienced that on any pads ever but they claim it's true.

-mike

I'd get the Centrics, however you also need to remember to do a cool down lap so to speak after getting hard on the brakes. If you do a WOT pull and slam on the brakes then come to a stop or go back to the garage and park it you'll end up having pad transfer no matter what pads or rotors you use.

-mike

Another rotor topic - another reminder that it doesn't make a damn bit of difference what you run on street from a performance point of view. You say you do "a lot of hard fast braking." What a joke:lol: Unless you have the car loaded with 3000 lbs of cinder blocks and head down the hill from Watkins Glen to the village below, you simply will not test the capabilities of any stock brake setup. On the other hand, 10 hard laps on the track will fry any brake option being discussed here.

Not sure what you think is a joke.. All it took was a few hard braking events from 100-45 ish and the stock brakes went from smooth to completely vibrating at any braking speed..

I actually race and the Centrics & HP+ work fine for anyone who is a beginner or a stock car. I was just at watkins glen and had my LGT out there in the race group, I ran out of tire before I ran out of brakes...

-mike

What I mean is that street driving is so tame, that you're not going to really stress the brakes - matter how hard you think you're driving. Who knows what actually caused your problem - except that it wasn't over-stressing the brakes. If you want to talk to someone who really knows about these issues, call Eric at www.brakeswap.com.

I'm pretty sure it was overheating the stock brakes. They're just not meant to accept that heat range without baking deposits onto the rotors. Pretty sure plenty of people have had this issue with the stock brakes because they're really not up to spirited driving.

What I mean is that street driving is so tame, that you're not going to really stress the brakes - matter how hard you think you're driving. Who knows what actually caused your problem - except that it wasn't over-stressing the brakes. If you want to talk to someone who really knows about these issues, call Eric at www.brakeswap.com.

Agree w/ Frank here. For the street, HPS should be sufficient. Same with rotors, any blank rotor should be fine. Slotted looks cool, but will increase pad wear. We sell both.

HP+ might be ok for a beginner on track but once you start pushing it, they really arent up to task, especially with such a heavy car.

HP+ is pretty good on a stock car, even at a fairly advanced level w/o R compounds for HPDE.

-mike

What I mean is that street driving is so tame, that you're not going to really stress the brakes - matter how hard you think you're driving. Who knows what actually caused your problem - except that it wasn't over-stressing the brakes. If you want to talk to someone who really knows about these issues, call Eric at www.brakeswap.com.

Not exactly just street driving but mixed w/ a freeway jaunt for about 15 miles and another 5 miles of street I've pulled into my driveway before w/ my old 2400lb 90's Corolla w/ the wheel wells smoking a few times. That's w/ Akebono Ceramics. I've crossed over into fade territory a few times under those conditions so I don't think you can have too much breaking unless you have only high-temp specific pads which would be poor application. Pads and tires are certainly the biggest factors in the equation compared to rotors but I don't agree that 'street' driving will never exceed stock braking capability. Considering my LGT has probably the worst stock brakes of any car I've ever owned no way I'm playing around. Know yourself, know your car, know your environment. Simple yet complex.

Not exactly just street driving but mixed w/ a freeway jaunt for about 15 miles and another 5 miles of street I've pulled into my driveway before w/ my old 2400lb 90's Corolla w/ the wheel wells smoking a few times. That's w/ Akebono Ceramics. I've crossed over into fade territory a few times under those conditions so I don't think you can have too much breaking unless you have only high-temp specific pads which would be poor application. Pads and tires are certainly the biggest factors in the equation compared to rotors but I don't agree that 'street' driving will never exceed stock braking capability. Considering my LGT has probably the worst stock brakes of any car I've ever owned no way I'm playing around. Know yourself, know your car, know your environment. Simple yet complex.

Highway driving is actually pretty light driving. Highway provides a lot of cooling.

-mike

Oh and I must be nuts cause I road race my stock powered LGT with upgraded suspension and rarely have issues with Hawk HP+ and Centric Rotors. ATE Superblue Fluid and Technafit SS Lines.

Guess I don't push it enough.

-mike