SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Sorry if this has been brought up before, but I couldn't find any info on it. I was looking on romraider.com and there are 2 stage 2 maps, one aggressive version for an 05 lgt and one conservative for an 08 spec B with a gutted shorty. If I only have a gutted shorty, can I use the 08 spec B map by copying over tables or what? My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Not really, tuning the 07+ roms are different. You should be fine using Mickeyds 05 lgt map and maybe tweaking it a bit to your car. You can also order an etune from infamous or another etuner for around $150 and that would likely be a better and safer option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Thanks for the input. I may try to copy over the tables, only there is a note about lowering the wgdc tables for testing - do you happen to know which wgdc tables get lowered? My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 That is recommended for checking the safety of the tune in your environment/fuel conditions etc. I would reduce the min and max wastegate duty tables by about 50% or so and do a few logs and if everything checks out put 75% of the table back and log and then if all is well then you should be okay to run the full wgdc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 So you would reduce this table by 50%? EDIT OK I reread the mickeyD thread, and it says to reduce the intial and the max WGDC tables by 20%. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 I loaded MickeyD's 05 LGT stage 2 map and lowered the initial and max WGDC tables by 20%. Then I went for a test drive and made a few logs. I had a CEL while I had learning view on, so I didn't capture it in a log (was driving up hill in 3rd with it floored P0244). I attached one log that shows some mixed driving - extra lines deleted. It appears there is one significant knock event on line 56. Honestly hitting 16 psi with the stock TMIC is OK by me, but I'm concerned I may have some knock? I'm not sure what to make of the Learning View - I have had a -1.4 here and there before, but not two at the same time romraiderlog_20100801_221220.csv My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Are you sure you copied all the tables over? It sounds like your rev limit fuel cut was hit, what is it set at? As for the knock. -1.4 isn't too bad. That is one knock event in that range. You can try reducing timing a bit in that area if it is consistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Pretty sure all the tables were copied. I left the rev limiter set at 6800 though. The CEL/fuel cut occurred way under reline, maybe 4000 rpm or so. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Check under "Boost Control Limits", and see what value you have in "Boost Limit (Fuel Cut)". The table should show atmospheric pressure on the right and a absolute pressure on the right. If your atmospheric pressure is 14.7, then 34.7 would allow you to hit 20 psi without hitting fuel cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Hmmmm, my table does NOT match the MickeyD file???? I'll have to check the wast gate and avcs tables again. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You're setup to hit fuel cut at 17.4 psi assuming you're at sea level. If you're any higher than sea level then even less. You can bump that up a bit since you're running higher boost or you can dial wgdc down to keep boost at around 17psi peak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Thanks rtbrjason. I checked the other tables and didn't find any other mismatches. Alternatively to your wgdc proposal, I was thinking about reducing the target boost to 16 psi, at least until I get my TMIC reinforce/upgraded. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 That should work as well. You may still need to tweak your wgdc tables to smoothly hit the new boost targets you set. You can make a few changes and do a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline. If that goes smoothly and knock free, I will generally then do a 4th gear pull from 2k to 5k and then go home and graph the boost curve. From there you can fairly easily see where you need to add/remove wgdc to get things in line. Doing this a few times should be enough to get everything tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 After driving like a grandma for a couple days, I checked my learning view again, and had some scattered knock corrections -1.4 and less. I reflashed to MickeyD's stage 1 map with -10% to the wgdc tables. I did a log and maxed out at 16.3 psi in 3rd, and my learning view after had all ZEROS - which makes me feel better. I'll stick with this map until I can get some proper stage 2 parts. I have a catless UP and expect to soon have a Perrin TMIC. Now I just have to get the $'s together for a CNT DP. I'm torn between catted and non-catted? My XO2 CBE does have a resonator, but I'm wondering what the sound would be like with NO CATS. rtbrjason, thank you for your input and help. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewmanman3 Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 i have a video of mine with not cats, its loud if i get your email i can send it also im kinda in the same boat, i need a stage two tune but dont know how to go about it. i wanna do it as cheaply as possible and i wanna find somewhere online where i can get maps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeraldG Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 pm Infamous1. or you can check here.... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/opensource-tuning-now-available-103997.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Depending on where you are, try to get a road tune. It's much safer, more accurate, and takes less time. Try to find a good tuner in your area. My road tune was pretty much done in under an hour, including flashing a couple revisions and doing pulls. e-Tunes are good if you want to same a little bit more money, but you spend a lot of time flashing, logging, reflashing, logging, etc. Just make sure that whoever does your tune keeps the WGDC under 75%. It'll make your engine happier in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedNeeder Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Thanks for the info. I live in western Kentucky, and I think Chicago and Atlanta are my closest options for 'real tune'. I'll probably get an e-tune eventually. First I have to figure out why my fuel learning is +10 in cell A. I will buy an OEM filter and see if that helps. I never heard the 75% rule before? I have seen many tunes that go to 90% at low rpms. My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Your engine doesn't care (or know) what the WGDC is. It's true that you could wear out the solenoid one day but that'll be 5-10 years down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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