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Where to get OS Stage 2 tune?


SpeedNeeder

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Sorry if this has been brought up before, but I couldn't find any info on it.

 

I was looking on romraider.com and there are 2 stage 2 maps, one aggressive version for an 05 lgt and one conservative for an 08 spec B with a gutted shorty.

 

If I only have a gutted shorty, can I use the 08 spec B map by copying over tables or what?

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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Not really, tuning the 07+ roms are different. You should be fine using Mickeyds 05 lgt map and maybe tweaking it a bit to your car. You can also order an etune from infamous or another etuner for around $150 and that would likely be a better and safer option.
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Thanks for the input.

 

I may try to copy over the tables, only there is a note about lowering the wgdc tables for testing - do you happen to know which wgdc tables get lowered?

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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That is recommended for checking the safety of the tune in your environment/fuel conditions etc. I would reduce the min and max wastegate duty tables by about 50% or so and do a few logs and if everything checks out put 75% of the table back and log and then if all is well then you should be okay to run the full wgdc.
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So you would reduce this table by 50%?

 

142994339_MaxWGDCTable.thumb.jpg.79f6a06c46a10c6c264f1edb9058877d.jpg

 

 

EDIT

OK I reread the mickeyD thread, and it says to reduce the intial and the max WGDC tables by 20%.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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I loaded MickeyD's 05 LGT stage 2 map and lowered the initial and max WGDC tables by 20%. Then I went for a test drive and made a few logs. I had a CEL while I had learning view on, so I didn't capture it in a log (was driving up hill in 3rd with it floored P0244). I attached one log that shows some mixed driving - extra lines deleted. It appears there is one significant knock event on line 56.

 

Honestly hitting 16 psi with the stock TMIC is OK by me, but I'm concerned I may have some knock? I'm not sure what to make of the Learning View - I have had a -1.4 here and there before, but not two at the same time :(

 

romraiderlog_20100801_221220.csv

 

68964144_LearningView_SS_8-1-2010101852PM.jpg.6fb995c4c45e33abf092c270daf99d4a.jpg

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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Are you sure you copied all the tables over? It sounds like your rev limit fuel cut was hit, what is it set at?

 

As for the knock. -1.4 isn't too bad. That is one knock event in that range. You can try reducing timing a bit in that area if it is consistent.

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Pretty sure all the tables were copied. I left the rev limiter set at 6800 though.

The CEL/fuel cut occurred way under reline, maybe 4000 rpm or so.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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Check under "Boost Control Limits", and see what value you have in "Boost Limit (Fuel Cut)". The table should show atmospheric pressure on the right and a absolute pressure on the right. If your atmospheric pressure is 14.7, then 34.7 would allow you to hit 20 psi without hitting fuel cut.
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You're setup to hit fuel cut at 17.4 psi assuming you're at sea level. If you're any higher than sea level then even less. You can bump that up a bit since you're running higher boost or you can dial wgdc down to keep boost at around 17psi peak.
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Thanks rtbrjason.

I checked the other tables and didn't find any other mismatches.

Alternatively to your wgdc proposal, I was thinking about reducing the target boost to 16 psi, at least until I get my TMIC reinforce/upgraded.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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That should work as well. You may still need to tweak your wgdc tables to smoothly hit the new boost targets you set. You can make a few changes and do a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline. If that goes smoothly and knock free, I will generally then do a 4th gear pull from 2k to 5k and then go home and graph the boost curve. From there you can fairly easily see where you need to add/remove wgdc to get things in line. Doing this a few times should be enough to get everything tight.
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After driving like a grandma for a couple days, I checked my learning view again, and had some scattered knock corrections -1.4 and less. I reflashed to MickeyD's stage 1 map with -10% to the wgdc tables. I did a log and maxed out at 16.3 psi in 3rd, and my learning view after had all ZEROS - which makes me feel better. I'll stick with this map until I can get some proper stage 2 parts. I have a catless UP and expect to soon have a Perrin TMIC. Now I just have to get the $'s together for a CNT DP. I'm torn between catted and non-catted? My XO2 CBE does have a resonator, but I'm wondering what the sound would be like with NO CATS.

 

rtbrjason, thank you for your input and help.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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i have a video of mine with not cats, its loud

 

if i get your email i can send it

 

also im kinda in the same boat, i need a stage two tune but dont know how to go about it. i wanna do it as cheaply as possible and i wanna find somewhere online where i can get maps.

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Depending on where you are, try to get a road tune. It's much safer, more accurate, and takes less time. Try to find a good tuner in your area. My road tune was pretty much done in under an hour, including flashing a couple revisions and doing pulls. e-Tunes are good if you want to same a little bit more money, but you spend a lot of time flashing, logging, reflashing, logging, etc.

 

Just make sure that whoever does your tune keeps the WGDC under 75%. It'll make your engine happier in the long run.

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Thanks for the info. I live in western Kentucky, and I think Chicago and Atlanta are my closest options for 'real tune'. I'll probably get an e-tune eventually. First I have to figure out why my fuel learning is +10 in cell A. I will buy an OEM filter and see if that helps.

 

I never heard the 75% rule before? I have seen many tunes that go to 90% at low rpms.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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