Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Finally! boost gauge installed in center vent (LONG)


sandwood

Recommended Posts

So I'd been playing with various options for a boost gauge ever since buying this car. I have an old Defi HUD unit from my A4, (an example of one here: http://s4.malagraphixia.com/ONYX_S4_Defi_Boost_Gauge_Contents.htm), which is trick but also requires install of a turbo timer. The lighting wd sort of match a legacy too, but I hated how the HUD display unit just sat on the dash. I cdn't figure out a way to conceal it but still have the display in a viewable location, so I eventually dismissed this option.

 

I like the way gauges mounted in the cubby look, but I use that space a lot and did not want to lose it. And I don't like the way a-pillar or mouse ear gauges look. so, limited options. In my old A4 I also had a center vent mounted guage (looked like this: http://www.gmpperformance.com/index.cfm?PG=detail&PID=111530)

 

 

So I decided to try something along those lines for the lgt. Unfortunately, the lgt does not have a convenient third vent, and I didn't want to completely lose a vent for obvious reasons. So I decided on an Omori 45 mm mechanical gauge with adjustable lighting. Several people on the boards have installed these already.

 

To install the gauge, I followed Hodgee's path (seen here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9113&highlight=boost+gauge+install)

Tapping into the vacuum hose in front of the intake manifold has resulted in no flutter or noise with the gauge, which has been a problem for those who followed Omori's instructions to tap into the fuel pressure regular line. the location is also closer to the passenger grommet, which is good because any further away and I might have run out of hose for the boost gauge.

 

Originally I was going to run the tube to the gauge through the driver side grommet that passes through the fender, but after stripping a fender liner screw :mad: I changed my mind and decided to go through the passenger side grommet. Since I was going to all that effort, I thought I might as well follow dmil's passenger air filter install instructions as well (http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1626) (I used a good furnace filter cut to size). Anyone else trying this route for a gauge, I recommend pulling out the rubber boot for the grommet, running a length of coathanger wire into the boost hose, and then poking it through.

 

For the actual mounting of the gauge itself, I gave the center vent/compartment to a stereo install shop. They cut a piece of wood then built a face using bondo, which they sanded and painted. the gauge mounts recessed into that. It is somewhat, but not perfectly, directed toward the driver. the finish of the mount is black, but not rubberized, so it doesn't perfectly match the surrounding trim. :rolleyes: close enough.

 

It means that the center compartment is no longer symmetrical, but that doesn't bother me too much. Maybe I will eventually put another gauge on the far side vent. the vent is still functional, but air can only be directed up and down, not side to side. no big deal.

 

finally, because I am slow and my wife sometimes impatient, I did this over two days. I think it looks dope. craptastic photos to follow.

 

:D

getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some daytime and shaky nighttime shots. Let me know what you think!

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/sand_wood/P5290001.jpg

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/sand_wood/P5290003.jpg

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/sand_wood/P5290006.jpg

 

and at night (the pic is so bad you can't really see it, but the gauge is white with a red needle):

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/sand_wood/night2.jpg

 

getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

there's a bit of glare if you are far over, as I was in that pic. from the driver's seat it is not an issue.

 

one more night shot:

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y152/sand_wood/night3.jpg

getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't want a flush mount bc the gauge wd have been angled too much toward the roof. yeah, it wasn't cheap to have it made. but still cheaper than a Defi!!
getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice, clean, and functional. I like it.

 

 

1st pic scared me a little though, as when you scroll down, the SUV spare tire in front of you appears over the dash of your car first. I was thinking...MY GOD...that guage is HUGE!!!:p

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the other problem with defi and this install is even with the 52mm gauge it wd be an extremely tight fit. possible? I doubt it. but thanks for the compliments guys.
getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the install. A local audio/video chain called Myer-Emco did the fabrication for $150. not cheap, but like I said, with the Omori gauge included, still less than I wd have paid for some electrical gauges. :)

 

I like that alot looks really nice. How much did you pay for the fabrication and install? Where did you have it done? :lol:
getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I was going to follow Sandwood's gauge install, and put my gauge in driver side airvent cause I like my gauges on my left side. But looking at how hard it is to get all these "unfamiliar" interior panels off and that the "vacation pics" arent really helpful at illustration to finding all the hidden nuts/bolts/plugs, I installed my Megan boost gauge in the center cubby hole.

 

Only feature I like about cubby is that I can hide my gauge at any time by closing door.

 

I followed this link and Sandwood's on post #1 on tapping for boost gauge. BTW, the pic for reference is too close to get a "bird's eye view", so if you're in doubt, its the vacuum hose that has a "tire like foam" filter on it at the front of the engine next to the red power connector near the alternator,...

 

:eek: Next, routing the plastic vacuum tube was tough without kinking it,..probably a good idea to heat tube up with blow dryer or something to "straight" it out. I used the farthest rubber grommet on the passanger side as this took the longest of my install time trying to "fish out" vacuum tube inside the interior. It took a lotta "LUCK" finding it as I had glove compartment off and just stuck my hand behind the cabin filter area and "felt" the plastic vacuum tube that I had fed all the way in almost.

 

Lastly for power and ground of the gauge, I used the trip meter/display source (bottom harness on cubby) and I think it was the yellow/red (pin 9 for ACC) wire for power and black/yellow (Pin 6) for ground. Look at i59 harness for reference at the "Dont laugh at my ass".

 

If you look at the pic, the Megan gauge (52mm) fits snug so no mounting is needed, I can mount it anywhere inside cubby (left or right), and I only drilled a small hole to feed vacuum tube and wires thru,..

 

http://tinypic.com/5xptzr

http://tinypic.com/5xpve0

http://tinypic.com/5xpt21

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice.

as an update to my post, I have to admit that I do get some buzz from the gauge/line under boost - starting at somewhat more than 5 lbs. It's not bad though - sort of a reminder that I am really juicing it. I gather I can fix this by replacing omori's plastic "T" fitting with a proper metal one, but not sure I can be bothered. also, I get bit of reflection from the gauge in the windshield when my lights are on, but it's not bad because it is right at the top and out of my line of sight.

 

it's hard to really keep an eye on the gauge when flooring it, but I am definitely seeing a little over 15lb/ft in 2nd through 5th gears.

getting out of the legacy game :cool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use