factory deck lid subwoofer custom upgrade!!!!!!!

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub5.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub3.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub2.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub1.jpg

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/sub.jpg

just got done installing my 350watt open air sub and amp

DLS - 0A8 350 watt 8ohm sub

JL - J2360.2 amp

so was it worth the effort?

what's it look like from the cabin side

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o94/duanenoel/subtop.jpg

the top looks 100% stock

it hits hard to. i love it. i was amazed how good the 8" sub hit. no one believes thats its a little 8" sub till i pop the truck and show them.

How does that clear the Trunk lid torsion bars?

in other countries it comes with a factory speaker there. bars are bent to accept an object there

Looks good!!

Do you mind taking measurements on the length of the magnet (the sub is 8" I want to know how long the magnet is)

For a newbie to do something like this, and a few years ago it was all talk on the forums but no one did it. I think some (like me) didnt factor in the magnet is smaller then the size of the sub thus wont clear the bars

8" Single 8 ohm Performance OA Series Car Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 350 watts

RMS: 150 watts

Impedance: 8 ohm

Chrome steel basket

Non-Pressed paper reinforced cone

Foam surround

Dual spiders

Dual magnet system (Ferrite)

Chrome-Plated terminals

Copper voice coil wire

Mounting Depth: 4-3/4"

Mounting Hole: 7-1/16"

Weight: 8.83 lbs

Magnet Size: 80 oz

2" Voice coil

Frequency response: 30-2000 Hz

Sensitivity: 85 dB

X-Max: +- 9mm

The sub fits perfect into the stock hole with no cutting. This it the best 8" free air sub out there. I did a lot of research before buying one. And you have to go with the same amp I used because it's the only one that will run at 8 ohms

i thought about doing a sub there but was way too impatient and went with a ported box. ive heard many,many subs and many different setup and by far freeair was the only one that has that non boomy sound.

its not for the faint of heart and you just cant slap it in there and go...,but when properly sealed and done correctly its bass nirvana.

8" Single 8 ohm Performance OA Series Car Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 350 watts

RMS: 150 watts

Impedance: 8 ohm

Chrome steel basket

Non-Pressed paper reinforced cone

Foam surround

Dual spiders

Dual magnet system (Ferrite)

Chrome-Plated terminals

Copper voice coil wire

Mounting Depth: 4-3/4"

Mounting Hole: 7-1/16"

Weight: 8.83 lbs

Magnet Size: 80 oz

2" Voice coil

Frequency response: 30-2000 Hz

Sensitivity: 85 dB

X-Max: +- 9mm

 

 

 

The sub fits perfect into the stock hole with no cutting. This it the best 8" free air sub out there. I did a lot of research before buying one. And you have to go with the same amp I used because it's the only one that will run at 8 ohms

any amp will run at 8ohm.. just a matter of what power it will put out at that ohm.

Yeah that's what I thought to but you need like a 1800 watt 1ohm mono amp to push the sub. That's what I was going to get but the prices crazy for an amp that big. I called a lot of amp companies and they said that there amps would only rum at 1-4 ohms and would highly recommend not hooking one if there amps up to a 8 ohms sub. Till I called JL and they make an amp prefect for what I'm doing and meant to run at 8 ohms and have me the perfect watts.

I'm sure u can prob hook any amp up to it but u will need alot of power and I wasn't going to do a half ass job on this I wanted it to be perfect and something I can trust in my trunk. And have other people do and not have any problems with.

I know that bars are bent to miss the speaker, but based on the measurements I took, that speaker has more than 1" more mounting depth than possible. I wonder if the bars contact the magnet when the trunk is closed.

As far as the amps go, 8ohms is a very gentle load and any bridgable or mono amp would have no problem with it. The issue is you've got to target about 2x the amount of power you want...i.e. to give this a solid 250 watts rms at 8 ohms, you're looking for an amp that pushes 500 watts rms at it's standard 4 ohm rating. While there are plenty of inexpensive amps that would work just fine for this woofer, your JL is definitely a great choice.

Yeah that's what I thought to but you need like a 1800 watt 1ohm mono amp to push the sub. That's what I was going to get but the prices crazy for an amp that big. I called a lot of amp companies and they said that there amps would only rum at 1-4 ohms and would highly recommend not hooking one if there amps up to a 8 ohms sub. Till I called JL and they make an amp prefect for what I'm doing and meant to run at 8 ohms and have me the perfect watts.

I'm sure u can prob hook any amp up to it but u will need alot of power and I wasn't going to do a half ass job on this I wanted it to be perfect and something I can trust in my trunk. And have other people do and not have any problems with.

It would not have been difficult to find an amp.. you just need 600/700rms @ 4 ohm .. you could achieve that from a bridgeable two channel

where did you get the grille?

and noob question; i've got an 8w0 sittin in the basement, would it work for a similar setup?

You'll also want to make sure the sub is sealed to the rear deck with speaker cauk and the rest of your trunk weatherstripping is in good shape. Sealing off any large airleaks, other than the seams between the seats will help improve the performance of this type of speaker since it uses the free air behind it as the "enclosure".

What brand/model is this particular sub?

I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side?

I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side?

I have my amp under the passenger's seat, other people have done it too

You'll also want to make sure the sub is sealed to the rear deck with speaker cauk and the rest of your trunk weatherstripping is in good shape. Sealing off any large airleaks, other than the seams between the seats will help improve the performance of this type of speaker since it uses the free air behind it as the "enclosure".

 

What brand/model is this particular sub?

 

I wonder what other brands/models would fit and if there is any other spots to hide the amp, maybe under the rear deck on the passenger side?

Um, you do know that there are vents under the trunk floor that let air out of the cabin, right? You can't seal those as they are needed to allow the HVAC system to work properly.

The point of an Infinite Baffle sub like this is that it does not need an enclosure to work properly, hence the high impedance. It can control it's movement well to work without the support of an enclosure.

Anyways, nice setup. I have been thinking about removing the cover plate in my car to allow my 10W6 to "talk" to the cabin better. I just need to tackle the task of removing the rear deck and adding a new hole in it with a grill.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but...

Info on how to clear the trunk lid torsion rods? Using a measuring tape indicates only ~2.75" of clearance depth-wise, and obviously you've gone past that. Do the rods rub the side of your sub, and does it really matter?