Lardo420 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 So I am about to put my catless DP on next weekend, and was wondering if it would be a good or a bad idea to also install an electronic dump valve right after the DP. Have access to welder and all necessary equipment, but just dont know if this is a bad idea, and quite frankly what it would even sound like. There wasnt really anything out there on this forum about this, so I am just wondering if anyone has done this sort of thing before and what I should expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 search for e-cutout or electronic cutout or cutout ...its been talked about. it would sound LOUD and mean, and will work. seems like some of them are boost triggered... not sure how many people have actually put them on, but it's been discussed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I'm looking into one of these also. The biggest issue people seem to have is motors failing from the extreme heat. Boost-activated ones shouldn't have this problem, but are almost twice the cost of electric ones. It seems of the electric ones, DMH or Race Ready Performance are the ones to go with. I hear nothing but good things about DMH, but Race Ready has a lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Nope. But boost activated ones have other issues. For one, you are running a VAC line 6-10 feet next to a hot exhaust pipe, then expecting it to do work when it gets there. If you are going to go cutouts, get manual cutouts and pull the plates off when you want to be loud. Not as convenient, but also not going to fail on you frequently. I remember one car went through more than a dozen QTP cutouts over the span of about 18 months. Why bother with that? A lifetime warranty doesn't mean anything useful if your car is down a dozen times in 18 months to replace a silly "be loud" valve. If you want selective loudness, get an external wastegate and dump it. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 I just want to let my 20g breathe again after reluctantly installing the stock catback, as my HKS was too loud for my new neighborhood. Went from logging 345 g/s with the HKS down to 308 with the stock exhaust. The power of a 16g with the lag of a 20g! I don't know about the OP, but it's not like I'll be opening the cutout every day or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 How loud are we talking about here? I'm stock waiting for funds for an AP then will be stg2 I would just like to do everything at once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 unbolt your catback and drive around... that loud My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftcoast74 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 lol mwiener... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Pretty sure I'm going to put one of these in after the DP. Will repost results. http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Do any of you think that there will be other problems due to the lack of backpressure? Is that what kills the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Turbos hate backpressure. The better they can breathe, the more power you'll make. Just ordered my cutout from Race Ready Performance. Time to hack up my cobb DP to put it right after the bellmouth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I promise that you do not want the dump there. Put it at the bottom of the DP. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I promise that you do not want the dump there. Put it at the bottom of the DP. Besides heat, what is your reasoning for this? My DP is catted, so placement at the bottom of the dp that wouldn't create ground clearance issues is pretty limited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 it's gonna suck trying to put it at the bellmouth My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I measured out about 7-7.5" of straight pipe a good .5" after where the cast bellmouth is welded to the stainless piping. I've got a 10" long 304 stainless y section coming that I can cut down to fit that area and keep the cutout away from the ground. The only issues I can see is heat (but they've got a lifetime warranty) or if a front axle snaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 I wanted to do a cutout, but Im worried Id be shooting fireballs and lighting my car on fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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