EGR code

Sometimes my son's 95 Legacy AWD wagon throws an EGR code. On a 95 Subbie is it usually an EGR valve or should I search for vac leaks, is there an EGR solenoid, leaky EGR gasket, etc. I thought once the car reached temp, in an EGR system the valve is not part of the situation. EGR valves are working during the warm up period. So I am thinking a vac leak or solenoid (if there is a solenoid). The EGR valve for this thing is more expensive than the EGR on my 90 Jag XJ6 so I don't want to just guess at it.

Yuck! I pulled off the EGR valve and I have never seen such a mess. It was so carbon that there is no way it could operate. Cleaned it out put it back on and we'll see how it goes. Before the cleaning the valve would not move when punching the throttle and now it moves.

Sometimes my son's 95 Legacy AWD wagon throws an EGR code. On a 95 Subbie is it usually an EGR valve or should I search for vac leaks, is there an EGR solenoid, leaky EGR gasket, etc. I thought once the car reached temp, in an EGR system the valve is not part of the situation. EGR valves are working during the warm up period. So I am thinking a vac leak or solenoid (if there is a solenoid). The EGR valve for this thing is more expensive than the EGR on my 90 Jag XJ6 so I don't want to just guess at it.

Which code did you get? You might also want to check the back pressure transducer (BPT) aka EGR vacuum modulator and the EGR solenoid.

 

To test the solenoid, apply 12V to it and blow through the top tube - air should come out the bottom tube. When you remove the power, blowing through the top tube should not push air through the bottom tube.

 

To test the BPT, apply vacuum to the bottom port - if it does not hold vacuum, the BPT is shot and needs to be replaced.

Thanks. I am still getting oriented to where the parts are and what they look like on his new to him car. Not sure where the BPT and solenoid are located. Maybe the Haynes manual will show them.

Which code did you get? You might also want to check the back pressure transducer (BPT) aka EGR vacuum modulator and the EGR solenoid.

 

To test the solenoid, apply 12V to it and blow through the top tube - air should come out the bottom tube. When you remove the power, blowing through the top tube should not push air through the bottom tube.

 

To test the BPT, apply vacuum to the bottom port - if it does not hold vacuum, the BPT is shot and needs to be replaced.

Thanks. I am still getting oriented to where the parts are and what they look like on his new to him car. Not sure where the BPT and solenoid are located. Maybe the Haynes manual will show them.

Follow the hoses from the EGR. Solenoid has an electrical connector.

 

BPT looks like this:

http://images.buyitsellit.com/2371525.jpg

 

EDIT: FYI, I had the P0400 code and my BPT failed the vac test. I replaced it with one on eBay for ~$20 and haven't had any issues since

Just handled my EGR code today as well. BPT seemed to be the culprit and put a new one in today. Let's see what happens.

My engine came with the EGR removed. A fellow Subbie club member (the guy who actually built the engine) is offering all the parts to replace the EGR since that is the only check engine code I am getting anymore. Is it worth it? And is there a guide to the intricacies of the system?

The code is P400

Which code did you get? You might also want to check the back pressure transducer (BPT) aka EGR vacuum modulator and the EGR solenoid.

 

To test the solenoid, apply 12V to it and blow through the top tube - air should come out the bottom tube. When you remove the power, blowing through the top tube should not push air through the bottom tube.

 

To test the BPT, apply vacuum to the bottom port - if it does not hold vacuum, the BPT is shot and needs to be replaced.