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Dyno tune Stage 2 log, Airboy sheet log


snow05gtRI

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ok, took a log of two 3rd gear pulls. first one is just a gear pull looking for knock. second one is a MPH and RPM log to hopefully get a reading off of Airboy's sheet. I found a version online and tried playing around with it but it kept giving me funny numbers. I'm hoping someone with some experience using it can do it for the 5EAT as it seems like it was meant for a MT. the bottom definitely needs to be truncated, and some of the top does as well i think.

 

my Knock Sum was all the way up to 20 after I did the RPM/MPH pull. up 11 from the end of the 3rd gear pull, and last i looked it hadn't changed before I did the RPM/MPH pull. also, it sort of felt like I hit the rev limiter at the top of the MPH/RPM log but the log does not seem to look like it. would that cause the Knock Sum to jump? I notice the RPM's dip from time 10250 to 10468...is that from the TQ converter (like the curley Q's you see on some dyno graphs) or am i actually "stuttering" there?

 

Thanks for any input.

romraiderlog_20090428_004520.csv

romraiderlog_20090428_005205.csv

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What is your atmospheric pressure?

 

You have a lot of high load / high rpm knock which is really bad. Boost is a little high above 5000 rpm. Timing is also a little bit high. AFR might be lean depending upon what the atmospheric pressure is.

 

Your logger cut out a few times. Are you using OP 2.0 cable?

untitled.JPG.773f4986023f45fb939980753ff1f8f6.JPG

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I'm at sea level so it should be like 14.1 or something for atmospheric pressure, right? The thermometer was reading 64*F on my car.

 

I'm using the VAG-COM cable. It's never really been a problem before, I think. Where was it cutting out? Should I send this log to the person who did my dyno tune and see what they say? From what I'm reading it looks like I need a re-tune.

 

I have:

Grimmspeed Ported, Polished, Coated Exhaust Manifolds

Grimmspeed Crossover Pipe

Grimmspeed UP

Cobb Catted DP for 5EAT

Perrin TMIC

Borla CBE

AEM CAI

TruCool LPD 4454 Transmission Cooler

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yeah I think he tuned for the CAI. he said he had a WBO2 in the tail pipe. I mentioned to him I had a bung in the top of the DP and he said he's done testing and in the tail pipe it read just a little leaner than in the DP so he knew how to tune from there.

 

damn it...I'll send him the log and see what he says. guess I'll stay off WOT until I get a response. thanks for the help.

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got a response, he says it looks OK from what he can see but telling me to do another log but dont log knock sum and instead log knock correction and feedback knock correction. should i be resetting the ECU before this or will it happen even if it is learned?

 

he didn't say anything about it being lean. I guess technically i was tuned at 150ft above sea level and that gear pull was 50ft above sea level, but I thought that small of an elevation change is negligible.

 

is this safe for me to do another gear pull with the current state of the car?

 

also, I was looking at both logs and there are a couple instances where the RPMs go down when I'm doing WOT....is this normal for the AT?

 

and I shifted after the WOT in the log with all of the details, could this cause a false knock?

 

how can you tell the logger cut out? my laptop doesn't have the strongest of batteries, but it should be fine for doing a gear pull or two i would think. I get about 40-45mins of life out of it when I unplug it from the wall...

 

just trying to understand things for myself a bit better

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but dont log knock sum and instead log knock correction and feedback knock correction

I do not understand why not to log knock sum.. The only way you can see the actual knock, is a knock sum.

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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also, I was looking at both logs and there are a couple instances where the RPMs go down when I'm doing WOT....is this normal for the AT?

Yes, this is Ok. At least I see the same on my 5EAT. TQ Conv. is doing this

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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You are still getting knock between 5-6K RPM. BTW, you should always log knock sum.

Looks like your tune is not good at high RPM region, as you getting knock every time in the same place. And, this is BAD for the engine.

Knock sum does not mean anything if you do not know where knock is happening. I may be having 25 knock sum, but all off throttle. This is why you need to log knock sum.

There are no bad people, just differeent.
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Why can't you just log knock sum and ignition total timing?

 

FLKC is ONLY useful if you also log FLKC offset. If you don't, you will need to keep track of FLKC to determine if it is changing or not. Keeping track of FLKC is a much more difficult job than you can imagine.

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yeah he didn't ask for FLKC just "Knock Correction" and FBKC and there is no "Knock Correction" only KCA, I just added FLKC as an insurance measure if maybe he was talking about FLKC and wasn't being specific.

 

i dont know why...but thats what the tuner was asking for.

 

I sent him the log and he saw the knocking starting at 5600...said it could be due to fuel or something else. said wait a couple days and pull another log and if it's still happening he can send me a revised tune. I'm also concerned with your comments of me possibly running lean. did you have any more thoughts on that, mickeyd?

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You should log what your tuner asks you for.

 

I'm just asking for what I want to see.

 

Your MAF is very low. LGTs are usually fairly consistent. So, my assumption is that your MAF is wrong and that you are actually flowing more air. The only real way to know is to get a WBO2. It's always a good idea to get a LC1.

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agreed with your above comments. I'm going to remove FLKC...would it be wise to add Knock Sum to that setup for the heck of it or will it just slow down data? Did you notice any more cutting out of logging data? If it is continuing to be a problem, I might splurge for the Tactrix eventually...

 

I'm *HOPING* this is just a fuel issue from changing from winter to summer blends or something, as I've read that people had tunes dialed in and now they are getting lots of knock this time of year. But if I am consistently knocking in the same place then I feel like that may not be right...

 

guess I'll look into an LC1 and a heatsink or something. i'm guessing I gotta run some wiring with it, too. i'm gonna search, but does anyone have any jumpoff points that can help?

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to touch on the lean comments and the AEM flowing more air than what my MAF (g/s) is reading:

 

after I cleaned my filter unit (just used dish soap + water, not their fancy cleaning stuff), the exterior became sorta "hairy" ... it seemed like the fibers started to break away from their mold and it now looked shaggy (but inside the filter it looks fine from what I can tell). In the chance this IS decreasing my flow, if I were to replace the current one with a new one, and then data log again, would the MAF g/s change at all to show me that the flow has increased? Basically, I'm asking what would I look for to see if flow increased?

 

It was cleaned before the dyno tune, so my thought process is going that if flow was actually hurt, then the wbo2 might be on point for my AFR's (which, according to my plot the AFR looks like an OK range, see attachment), and a new filter would then actually cause me to lean out...

 

FWIW, from my e-tune logs (had an e-tune until I could do the dyno) I was flowing 244 g/s, and that's also post-filter cleaning.

 

I'm just about through the tank of gas from the logs I posted on page 1, so when i empty that and fill up again (prob tomorrow or next day) I will be pulling more to see if it was some bad fuel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On a side note, how can I see if the timing in cylinder's 2&4 (that odd timing issue in cobb maps that I think came from the stock map) has been changed? I have my ROM, as I saved it with ECU flash. Just dunno where to load it to look at that table. or if someone wants to take a look at the map for me, let me know and I can send you the ROM. I would appreciate it.

 

 

Thanks for any help you can provide...

Scan002.PDF

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nothin on my most recent question(s)?

 

if someone feels like i should be able to easily find these answers on my own, please give me something to start with and I'll go from there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok, FINALLY got a chance to pull some more logs. from the limited knowledge I have, it looks like I'm still knocking in the high RPM range. I pulled two logs...first was with FBKC and KCA which is what my tuner asks for (and i shifted early...doh), and the second is using Knock Sum instead. also, in the second log I changed the BAUD rate of my vag-com cable to see if it helped with the problem of dropping data. with respect to losing data, is either log better than the other? with respect to seeing how the engine is performing, does one log show better information than the other? I'm planning on sending the tuner just the one with FBKC and KCA which is what he seems to know. if i should be sending both (different/more info in second one), please let me know.

 

these were done about 50-100ft above sea level, weather was around 47*F and it didn't FEEL too humid outside.

 

thanks for the help from all of you.

romraiderlog_20090519_014152.csv

romraiderlog_20090519_015000.csv

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I notice the RPM's dip from time 10250 to 10468...is that from the TQ converter (like the curley Q's you see on some dyno graphs) or am i actually "stuttering" there?

It's normal, I'm seeing the same thing, I thought there was something wrong with mine too. What is happening is that the TQ is trying to lock up, and failing miserably at it :lol:

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well....I called and scheduled a retune for next Tuesday. he said he hadn't gotten a chance to look at the log but i told him that it was pulling timing in FBKC (negative numbers) and he agreed that it was knocking.

 

no comments about data dropping or anything? usually theres at least a thumbs up or thumbs down...

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