Door Lock Actuator Problems

Hi chrisay,

I have also made the modification you have mentioned and it works perfectly, however, i have used the new motor shell since the magnets there fells to be stronger, and i had a problem closing up the original motors.

In any case i send a quote to the guy that sold me the motors on ebay, since he is selling a replacement motor, can he sell ones without the shafts since we are using the original ones.

P.S. can i use some of your photo's to share on our local Subaru forums ? (of course you will get the credits).

Thanks.

Amirz, feel free to use the photos I posted.
I too used the new motor housings.

All the best

Chris

Having the door lock issue for a 2005 Legacy Wagon, with the front passenger and rear driver, but they just up and stopped working. Is it possible to take the panel off without opening the door? It has become impossible to get either door open. It's kind of irritating to have to play Dukes Of Hazard all the time. There isn't a Dealer on the island, so there isn't even that to turn to.

I've tried fiddling with the lock and lever (inside & out) to get the door open, and also pressing the unlock many times on both the remote and the doors.
The Passenger side sounds like it's trying to catch the cable but that something has slipped out.

Originally Posted by Mnbvcx

Having the door lock issue for a 2005 Legacy Wagon, with the front passenger and rear driver, but they just up and stopped working. Is it possible to take the panel off without opening the door? It has become impossible to get either door open. It's kind of irritating to have to play Dukes Of Hazard all the time. There isn't a Dealer on the island, so there isn't even that to turn to.

I've tried fiddling with the lock and lever (inside & out) to get the door open, and also pressing the unlock many times on both the remote and the doors.
The Passenger side sounds like it's trying to catch the cable but that something has slipped out.

I'm not sure what Island you are on? But would say that any automobile association (or crim) should have the tools and knowhow to unlock, your locked doors. I seriously doubt you would be able to get the panel off far enough to gain access without opening the door. I can almost guarantee you that the sound you hear is not the cable slipping out, but the motor just failing to fully activate the actuator.

The sound of something trying to catch is the outside lever with the door still locked. I tried again to unlock with the double tap this morning and the front passenger door unlocked, but the rear driver is still pooched.

This is the worst lottery ever.

Nice write ups. I'll be doing this soon, as my rear left door is acting funny now...

Thanks!!!

Just found this thread and have to give a big thanks to Chrisay for the write up. I was having the same problem with the rear door in my '08 outback, and decided to dismantle today.

Apparently I had the opposite problem to everyone else; not a drop of grease to be found in the assembly. Motor was completely seized. I don't think the ebay replacement will save me here

Oh wow, you don't happen to have a boat do you...?
However yes you should be able to repair the motor, lightly sand off the corrosion from the armature, and then clean it up as I did, with the new parts from the ebay, it should work. Remember do not put grease in or on the actual motor, grease contact with the commutator quickly causes the graphite bushes to stop conducting.




[QUOTE=johnxsi;3353020]Just found this thread and have to give a big thanks to Chrisay for the write up. I was having the same problem with the rear door in my '08 outback, and decided to dismantle today.

Apparently I had the opposite problem to everyone else; not a drop of grease to be found in the assembly. Motor was completely seized. I don't think the ebay replacement will save me here

Hi, I am from singapore and was delighted to find this thread. It is the 2nd time I had this problem, 1st was on the rear left now front. I spend $200 the 1st time but I thought is too much to pay for whole assembly which I suspect could be just a damage motor.
Anyway, I tried this morning but stuck at the part of removing the whole white plastic assembly out from the sheet-metal door panel. The problem I face is there is this rod about 6mm dia attached to this assembly and I couldn't figure out how to detach it. I did not want to force it since it is not in a position I can see clearly and also considering I have to relocate it back later if I do not know how it is being install in place. You guys seems to be able to do it with ease so I need some advice here. Thank you in advance.

Hi crzcar,

The 6mm dia rod will slide out once you verify that you have removed ALL of the screws connecting the motor unit AND detach the dual V shape arm from it's location.

Thks amirz I will give it a 2nd attempt once I received those motors from ebay!

After 2 wks of waiting for the motors to reach me I finally got my door back working yesterday! Big thank you to this thread and those who have given me advice. I had a lot of satisfaction having DIY this repair especially I live in Singapore where we do have the luxury of a garage or tools easily accessible at home.

Excellent, did you find the exact motor or did you had to manipulate it ?

I got it from ebay like you guys did, clean and reuse the shaft or commuter... if any anyone has the source to the exact motor that comes with 20mm shaft and flat will be great! I can stock a couple for the other doors. Thanks!

May I know what glue or method you guys used to hold the covers back together? I did a lousy job by just applying a cloth tape it fails after one week of happy operation. Thanks in advance!