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DIY: EGR port for JDM EJ25 DOHC '95-'98


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I had somewhat hard time finding clear info regarding EGR issue when swapping JDM EJ25 into 95-99 leggy after blown head gaskets, or spun bearing, or whatever..

 

So during recent swap I documented what I did and here it is (copy pasting from original TSC thread):

 

"After some research, I realized there isn't really a thread about how to properly adapt a 1995-1998 JDM EJ25 engine for use with USDM Intake Manifold and ECU.

 

Here's how (assuming Head is on a Block):

 

http://i56.tinypic.com/e8x3s6.jpg

 

http://i51.tinypic.com/ejh65s.jpg

 

http://i51.tinypic.com/2dqovt.jpg

 

http://i53.tinypic.com/9hhnxy.jpg

 

http://i53.tinypic.com/4fva7r.jpg

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/166izkm.jpg

 

http://i56.tinypic.com/107tdgj.jpg

 

http://i55.tinypic.com/2dulcnb.jpg

 

http://i53.tinypic.com/2w3t1lx.jpg

 

http://i52.tinypic.com/1zd90tf.jpg

 

http://i54.tinypic.com/m73yh2.jpg

 

:)"

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
You can and access the other side of the hole through exhaust port to clean the shavings of exhaust port wall if any stick, but that's not what I meant. I meant the shavings in the actual thread and orifice, to avoid them being sucked into intake.
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  • 11 months later...

I'm new here, and this is my first stupid question.

 

I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback GT that blew the gasket a couple years ago. Since it squirted a stream of antifreeze out of a spark plug hole after changing the water pump/thermostat/timing belt the water jacket is probably broken as well.

 

So I bought a JDM engine out of Ontario (Tiger Japanese Auto). I don't think they sent me a Legacy motor, Mine has the coil block on the top, and the manual EGR on the L like this topic shows.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1cf11b3127ccefee8c3c0b8bd00000030O02AaOXDNq5btAe3nwc/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

What I think they sent me was a later model Impreza (98?) motor with an electronic EGR and the coil pack on the R rear.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1cf11b3127ccefee846b2f81500000030O02AaOXDNq5btAe3nwc/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

 

The mechanic won't do the drilling and warrant his work. I understand that. I called an automotive machine shop, and they don't have experience doing it, so they wouldn't either. I've spent a number of years making airplanes, so I don't think that these instructions are that difficult.

 

But I want to clarify something. As I read this (and I have Haynes manual in hand), your instructions say that the block I am drilling into is the exhaust manifold, and any chips that might fall into it aren't an issue. The only thing to worry about is that burrs might be left in the tapped hole and sucked into the tube leading to the manifold on top of the engine.

 

Is that correct?

 

If it is, then all I have to really worry about is drilling a straight hole, and swapping the intake manifold from my old motor to this one so that it has the manual EGR my computer is expecting, and the wiring harness fits.

 

Correct?

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  • 1 year later...

Please NOTE this is NOT a criticism of 'Napping'. I didn't do enough research to avoid the issues I caused.

 

Since the '95-'98 EJ22 is a common replacement for the '96-99 EJ25D used in the LGT/LSi/Outback/'98 Forester and Impreza RS, I think this is relevant. The '90-'94 EJ22 may not have the 'boss' and isn't included in this.

 

Check out this THREAD on the USMB for a good description of a 'gotcha' doing this on an EJ22 engine.

 

Cliffs Notes: If you drill the 9/16" hole too far, it will hit the water jacket and leak into the exhaust.

 

GL,

TD

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  • 2 years later...

I just drilled for an EGR on a new replacement engine, and I took a couple pictures that might be helpful.

 

This is the 5/16" bit touching the rod. It was drilled a little off center, but that wouldn't make a lot of difference.

10407244_10205867404106319_3310956272889659966_n.jpg?oh=a0065dfb10eac893fd3cb4f5038b8d02&oe=5551724A

 

 

The tape closest to the tip is approximately where the shoulder of the bit enters the cavity, so you have an idea how deep you will actually be drilling. Note: the tape was put on from the flat face of the post/hole that you are drilling from- not from the bottom of the hole.

10915233_10205867405226347_7365867823280635098_n.jpg?oh=253e61a23a530bb597ef6e240d1f5b5f&oe=5558239F

 

This shows you how far you can go before you hit the rod- around 1/4". The tape a bit further away shows the depth to hit the rod.

10351755_10205867405906364_5608585048248307304_n.jpg?oh=fc23b1ee8b9ecb2c0df27bf3d528b3ea&oe=5550D1D9

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If you want to avoid having to drill>>Tap the head check out this THREAD. You do NOT need the port on the head...just need to reuse your USDM intake manifold w/the EGR so you don't get a CEL.

 

If you do DRILL, the actual hole must not be too deep or you'll hit a water jacket...and the head is toast.

 

TD

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  • 4 months later...

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