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DIY How to create 2 gauge cubby gauge pod non-stealth.


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I did some searching and wasn't able to come up with a how to on how to create a gauge pod for the cubby that wasn't stealth. Sorry, no pictures in the beginning if you need those don't do the project. Here are my directions.

Tools needed:

Phillips

T-15 Torx screw driver

2 1/8 hole hole saw (can use other approach)

Bastard File

saw

razor blade

shop sissors

Dremel w/ cutting wheel

Black DVD case

Thin as possible scrap wood

 

1. Remove cubby/vents but simply pulling out.

2. Remove the two plugs, one at the top for the cubby light, one at the bottom for the digital display unit.

3. Remove all all screws holding the vents and cubby in you will use both the Phillips and the torx.

4. Disassemble the cubby so that you are left with three pieces. (you don't need to take apart the door just remove it.

5. The piece we need is the one the door is attached to. It is the piece I reattached in the picture below. It will fill in the side gaps when we install a flat backing for the gauges.

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Step 6. This piece will have to modified in order to make room for your gauges, don't worry it's nothing that will keep you from putting your cubby back together in working order. Remove cut the plastic as pictured below using a dremel and cutting wheel or another approach of choice. I cleaned things up with a razor blade when I was done.

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Step 7 This is where the DVD case will be used cut front cover off the case. Then cut a piece 6 14/16 " long and 3 7/16" tall to be the face plate for the gauge pod. (These were my measurements I recommend taking your own, trimming may be required.) I used shop scissors and a razor blade to cut it out. See picture below.

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The DVD plastic is not quite sturdy enough so I chose to strengthen it with a thin piece of wood. This step could be skipped if you find a thicker plastic the matches well. I cut a thin piece of wood to the same dimension as the plastic 6-14/16" X 3-7/16". I then used the bastard file to file down a groove on either side of the wood so it would clear the bump as shown in the picture below. This bump and groove also serves to keep face place securely in. Digital panel will need to be removed for fitting of wood face plate. Reinstall digital panel so that wood can rest on when testing fit.

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Step 9. Now it's time to cut our gauge holes. Make the appropriate measurements to find the placement of the center of the circle. I found the easiest way was to draw a line the long way down the center of both the wood and the plastic. I then found the middle of that line. From that center I went went two inches either way and did a mark. At the mark on both the wood and the plastic I used punch at the mark to divot it well enough for the drill bit from the 2-1/8" hole saw to stay in place. I chose to drill the wood and plastic separately.

 

Step 10. If you haven't already removed the digital display when doing the original fitting of the wood do so now. This will allow easy installation of the plastic face plate and the wood one from the bottom. At this point some additional trimming may have to be done.

 

Step 11. Install gauges in holes and take measurements of how much of U mounting bracket must be cut if any. Mine needed about 1/2" inch removed. Tighten up gauges.

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Step 12. Now all this needs to wired up. I chose to tap the two wire plug plug using vampire clamps for the light and ground connection. Black/(yellow?) is ground. I think it's purple is the light source. For switched ACC I tapped the yellow/red wire on the plug that powers the digital panel. Sorry no pictures. and it's not right in front of me.

 

Step 13. Connect any and all sensors in the engine bay compartment: vacuum, oil temp, etc. I chose to go in through the fire wall grommet shown in the picture below. I pulled the entire thing out of the fire wall so I could stick a small red handled screwdriver into the hose making it easy for me find the hose on the other side.

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Step 14. To retrieve it from the other side I pulled out the owners manual holder in the glove box just by simply pulling hard. This allowed me to see the red handle of the screw driver and with a lot of difficulty stick my arm in the hole and feed the hose and the screwdriver into the hole left in the dash from the cubby.

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Step 15. Zip tie all wires nice and neat in engine bay and behind dash.

 

Step 16. Connect lower plug to digital panel and fit the whole unit back into the hole in the dash. This will take a little wiggling and make sure it's snapped fully in place.

 

Step 17. Sit back and admire your handy work pat yourself on the back and turn the key.

 

In person the DVD plastic matches much better than it appears to in the pictures. Over all I am very happy with the install results. The gauges I chose to use are cheap Glow Shift gauges. This is my wife's car and the gauges are perfect for the extent of mods planned. These gauges match the interior well and are well made.

 

I will post some pictures of my MY97 Impreza L 2.5L Turbo custom fiberglassed Greddy gauge setup I did for that.

 

I hope this "How To" benefits others.

 

Here is my shameless plug:

I do install work for anyone who's interested, anything from engine rebuilds, clutches, gauges, up-pipes you name it I have been doing work for people on the Nasioc for a long time. I am located in Raleigh, NC I am not a company or vendor, but a guy who enjoys working on cars and bringing in a little extra money for his family. Contact me if you have a project for me.

 

If you have any questions feel free to post up and I will respond as quickly as possible.

 

Joshua

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Jedimaster,

It probably wouldn't have been to hard to leave the door on but that's not what my wife wanted. Plus that's been documented, not as detailed as I did here but a combining of the two would benefit those interested in keeping the door.

 

Yeah need some gas it's okay BJ's is less than a mile away.

Joshua

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thanks! I may have to try this. Not too hard at all. Just gotta take time to do it slowly. NICE JOB!

 

Ive been wondering what the hell to do with my gauges. If this doesnt look good, you just put it back to stock!

 

Do the gauges get hella hot in there though. Cuz that sticker says nott o put heat sensitive things in there (plastics, etc.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The gauges work fine and look good, the boost gauge is mechanical and came calibrated properly. I know people have purchased autometer and had to recalibrate them and they are about the same price and don't match as well.

Joshua

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I think in stock form as a bin.... you're not supposed to put heat sensitive things in there.... because it's hot. :)

 

I think it gets hot from the bulb in there?? Im not sure. But I unplugged that anyways, and used the wires as my power/ground. Should be fine.

 

I fiberglassed a piece. It fits nice, but needs more sanding and a diffent paint. I used high gloss,a nd it sucks. Im gonna do this for now though. Try this pod tonight.

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I think it gets hot from the bulb in there?? Im not sure. But I unplugged that anyways, and used the wires as my power/ground. Should be fine.

 

 

There is no bulb... it is an LED... and they don't generate any heat.

The heat comes from the stereo amplifiers (right below it) and the HVAC ducts (either side).

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