DocHolladay23 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 My LGT is in limp mode right now, no CEL but I'm only hitting about ~9 lbs of boost so I'm assuming I've got a vac leak. Idle is smooth, no sounds that I can hear but I thought I'd do a few logs and see if you guys could maybe tell if it's post or pre turbo. I checked all the lines I could think of (lines coming off EBCS, blue T near TB, etc...) but couldn't find any. Wasn't able to get a solid 3rd gear pull, but the first log is in 5th on the freeway, 2nd is in 3rd to about 4K, and 3rd is a few seconds at idle. Any help is appreciated!datalog1.csvdatalog2.csvdatalog3.csv [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 17, 2012 Moderators Share Posted May 17, 2012 a learning view would be helpful in identifying leaks! "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 I can only log with my AP [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bnguyenbb6 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 You have some really bad knock or a big leak. Isn't DAM supposed to be 1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 17, 2012 Moderators Share Posted May 17, 2012 Sorry Doc, my tuning "readability" knowledge is cursory at best, and I only have experience with RR, not APs. Hopefully others will chime in shortly. You have an '06 though, probably worth picking up a vag-com cable sometime if you have a laptop. will give you more options for logging, etc., and it's only $12 on amazon. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 If you remove the hose going to the bpv, do u feel any suction? You should. If not, you likely have a vac leak in that neighborhood. You usually hear it though under boost. Can't read the logs from the phone... Like bean, my log skills aren't that keen to begin with anyways. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 you're knocking so bad that the boost system has been disabled down to wastegate boost. DAM should be 1. use the learning view utility and post it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 You think it's for sure knock, or is there still a chance it could be a leak somewhere? I'm going to order a vag com cable today and also see if there is someone local who has one I could borrow... [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 either its real knock (from varous causes) or it's excessive engine bay noise/suspension noise thats falsely triggering the sensor (like a loose endlink that rattles). sometimes even loose heatshields cause false knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Well that narrows it down at least, rather than spending time for leaks I'll start with making sure nothing is causing noise to trigger the sensor, thanks BMX! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Fellas, he already posted up the equivalent of an LV.... well, minus the knock learning table. Look in his logs. He pulled AF Learning A, B, C, and D. Their values correspond to the fuel trims which in his case are currently 4.7, 11.9, 3.0, -0.9. And he has DAM in there, which is 0.12. I say you have a leak somewhere. Also, stop driving the car until you find the culprit. You're hurting it badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Thanks for the heads up, I double checked all vac lines, then looked for possible noise makers and found out there was a bolt missing from the bottom of my Cobb heatshield. Didn't take much movement for it to tap either the hotside FMIC pipe or the mounting point, so I yanked it outta there and I think that may have been the culprit. These looking any better (they are in the same sequence as the first set)? I'm staying out of boost at all times except for these logs BTW but it's my DD so I gotta drive it datalog1.csvdatalog2.csvdatalog3.csv [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Well, your logs aren't really very useful other than for telling me what your AF trims are. You really need to put in RPM, FBKC, FLKC, Knock Sum, and throttle opening angle at least, in addition to boost and WGDC. Remove the AF parameters for now. Only put them in when we need to see what the AF trims are. Otherwise, you'll lose logging resolution. Your DAM is still sitting at 0.12 which is not good, but things don't just change that quickly on their own. You can either drive around gently for a bit and see if DAM goes back up on its own, or you can reset the ECU and force it to go back up and see if it starts dropping again. Up to you. The safer but slower way is to leave it alone and drive gently to see what happens. In either case, a loose bolt wouldn't be responsible for your fuel trims being off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 sure sounds like a leak... My vac leak was pretty darn loud though... Any recent mods or changes to the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 your fuel trims suggest lean at idle/light cruise then rich at the higher end. a leaky injector(air leak) or manifold gaskets can cause this, or really any vac line that attaches to the manifold. a boost leak test will confirm the culprit immediately. a bad enough leak can cause some knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Well, your logs aren't really very useful other than for telling me what your AF trims are. You really need to put in RPM, FBKC, FLKC, Knock Sum, and throttle opening angle at least, in addition to boost and WGDC. Remove the AF parameters for now. Only put them in when we need to see what the AF trims are. Otherwise, you'll lose logging resolution. Your DAM is still sitting at 0.12 which is not good, but things don't just change that quickly on their own. You can either drive around gently for a bit and see if DAM goes back up on its own, or you can reset the ECU and force it to go back up and see if it starts dropping again. Up to you. The safer but slower way is to leave it alone and drive gently to see what happens. In either case, a loose bolt wouldn't be responsible for your fuel trims being off. Yeah I didn't reset the ECU so maybe I'll be gentle on it for a few days and keep an eye on the AP, I'll get some logs with those parameters as well. Just to be clear the bolt was actually missing on the heatshield, so what I was saying was the heatshield itself could very easily have been tapping the engine and maybe that was causing the knock sensor to see some false knock. sure sounds like a leak... My vac leak was pretty darn loud though... Any recent mods or changes to the car? None recently, putting the heatshield on was the most recent thing I've done your fuel trims suggest lean at idle/light cruise then rich at the higher end. a leaky injector(air leak) or manifold gaskets can cause this, or really any vac line that attaches to the manifold. a boost leak test will confirm the culprit immediately. a bad enough leak can cause some knock I've only used my boost leak tester on the FMIC piping, if I take the filter off can I test starting at the inlet as long as I keep the pressure relatively low? I've always been under the impression that you are supposed to remove or clamp the lines coming off the inlet if you do it that way... [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 IMO keep all the inlet lines on, the more you pull off or plug the less likely you'll find the leak! attach the tester at the inlet, keep oil cap on and dipstick in, pressurize to 10psi at most, no higher. you want to pressurize the entire system, pcv, vac lines, boost piping, IC, everything as a problem in all of those areas can lead to drivability issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 i need to get one of those testers. One of thigns that when you need one, you dont wanna wait the week it takes to order one and get one shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Sounds good, I'll give it a shot. Jase it's certainly good to have, I've used it tons of times on my FMIC like I said, makes it really easy to find the coupler that's leaking. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Still need to do a leak test, that'll happen tomorrow night. Here are some more logs in the meantime. My DAM has been all over the place recently, but it hasn't gone below 0.6. The first (datalog10) is a 3rd gear pull, the next 3 are in 4th and 5th with a mix of cruising on the highway and some fluctuating throttle. Let me know what you guys think!datalog10.csvdatalog11.csvdatalog12.csvdatalog13.csv [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 For the love of god, stop doing hard driving until you figure out the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Haha I'm trying, only going into boost for logs [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 i need to get one of those testers. One of thigns that when you need one, you dont wanna wait the week it takes to order one and get one shipped. dont buy one, just make one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Is it worth saving $26? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 just buy it. easier. unless you're on food stamps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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