Crank Pulley

Hello again, all. It's been a while, and I've broken something.

I was going to Christmas dinner with the lady friend when my crank pulley decided it no longer liked where it was. I found her a ride there, so I took the belt off and Hulk steered it there.

The motor is a 91 EJ22. The bolt holding it on seems to have backed off. I plan on putting the torque wrench on it later today, I'm just have some questions.

1: is there any other damage that may have been done?

2: if I back that bolt out entirely to remove the pulley for inspection, it shouldn't affect my timing sprockets, right?

Thanks, gents. Hope you all had a fantastic Christmas.

read this for starters:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/1997-legacy-issues-218375.html

and depending on what exactly is wrong, and it is not clear from your post, these may be helpful.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...e#entry1030771

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ir#entry607652

http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html

what exactly happened.?

does the crank pulley wobble?

is the bolt loose?

did the pulley separate, outer belt part from the inner hub?

by the way, you do not have an alt with the belt off.

the longer you drive it the deader the battery becomes.

Sorry for the vagueness.

The bolt seems to have backed off. I could tighten in by hand, so I'd say that was an issue.

The pulley then no longer spun with the crank and could wobble by about 30 degrees.

I know about the alternator. I have an optima battery and only had a few miles to go, so I limped it home and parked it.

ok,

the timing sprocket can loosen and move, changing the timing.

i'm surprised the car is still running with the bolt hand tight.

the crank pulley is messed up, and probably the crank key way.

and maybe the crank sprocket.

but if you replace all those messed up items and put it back together correctly with the timing set correctly,

you should be good to go.

this is not an uncommon problem.

a suggestion,

while you are doing this why not replace the rest of the timing belt items, belt, idlers and water pump.

maybe replace the cam and crank seals, and reseal the oil pump.

then you are set for 60k miles. (timing belt service interval is every 60k miles, or 60 months.)

the parts needed will cost about $160,

plus the good used pulley, sprocket, key and bolt for the crank.

Just started tearing it down, and you nailed it.

The vehicle is the 91 Legacy wagon. I posted in this forum because of the similarity of the engine to the 2nd gens, and frankly you guys always helped with my 95 wagon a while back.

I'm unfamiliar with the setup of this section of the motor, since I've never come across this before. I wasn't sure what a key was, but I'm fairly sure it would be a notch on the crank sprocket that slid into the slot of the crank pulley, which would be the keyway?

Well, the nose of the sprocket is rounded with no notch to be seen, and the inside face of the pulley has been rounded.

When it was running, the pulley was able to reach the timing cover and completely obliterated it. The timing belt has some damage, but it's been on there for around 170,000 miles (I only got the car somewhat recently).

So I would hypothetically do a timing job, and then replace/repair the crank sprocket and key?

Thanks for your quick replies and help, by the way.

I'm unfamiliar with the setup of this section of the motor, since I've never come across this before. I wasn't sure what a key was, but I'm fairly sure it would be a notch on the crank sprocket that slid into the slot of the crank pulley, which would be the keyway?

Ok, doing some research and I see what the key and keyway actually are. There is no sign of a key on it right now, so I would consider that damaged.

What I thought was the rounded portion of crank sprocket is actually the keyway, which seems to be rather battered in all the destructive carnage.

when you put it back together with good parts it should be good to go.

the damage to the crank keyway is in the un-screw direction.

when you lines things up to bolt it together,

the good side of the keyway will hold it in place until the bolt is tight.

the key is designed to locate the sprocket correctly until the bolt is tight.

once the bolt is tight it does all the work.

the cause of this problem is the bolt not torqued the the proper amount.

it has to be 135 ft lbs.

i use 150 ft lbs.

replace the damaged parts and put it back together.

http://opposedforces.com/parts

a great site for parts numbers and a view of how the parts fit together.

timing belt parts

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_2/

sprocket and key

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/piston_and_crankshaft/illustration_1/

the timing belt and idlers, and water pump need to be new.

but the damaged sprocket, key, , pulley and bolt can be used in good condition.

the damage is pretty obvious when you compare the good with the bad.

the bolt may not be damaged and may be reusable, but i would replace it any way.

post a want ad for the parts you need,

or look on http://www.car-part.com .

put in you zip and sort by distance to see what is close.

then sort by price to see what is cheap and has to be shipped.

Sorry to bring this old thread up, but I've been driving my SVX since this calamity and I'm finally starting to work on the Legacy in a few weeks.

So if I'm hearing you correctly, John, it's essentially a regular timing job with new pulleys, sprockets, and such and then a new crank pulley, bolt, and key?

The snout of the crank looked pretty messy, but I can't see any reason why a properly torqued pulley won't hold the timing sprocket on.

My big question is "Is this going to be a lasting repair?" If it should hold moderately well, I'll also do the water pump, oil seals, and any other little pieces of fun while I'm in there.

Thanks for the info so far!

Sorry to bring this old thread up, but I've been driving my SVX since this calamity and I'm finally starting to work on the Legacy in a few weeks.

 

So if I'm hearing you correctly, John, it's essentially a regular timing job with new pulleys, sprockets, and such and then a new crank pulley, bolt, and key?

 

The snout of the crank looked pretty messy, but I can't see any reason why a properly torqued pulley won't hold the timing sprocket on.

 

My big question is "Is this going to be a lasting repair?" If it should hold moderately well, I'll also do the water pump, oil seals, and any other little pieces of fun while I'm in there.

 

Thanks for the info so far!

I just went through the same thing with my 1997 legacy 2.2. I THOUGHT it just needed a new harmonic balancer & woodruff key, but the keyway on the timing gear on the crankshaft was junk., so I had to get that gear too When I went to torque the bolt that holds it all together, I found out that I couldn't because the threads in the crankshaft were stripped. I ended up tapping the crankshaft to 9/16"-18, and put in a grade 8 bolt.

I found that the threads on the crank are ok (at least good enough that I can put the bolt in by hand) and the timing gear should be good since it still runs so well, but I'm still looking for a replacement just in case.

The timimg gear that goes behind the pulley/harmonic balancer apparantly is only available through Subaru dealers. MSRP is only around $35, and several dealers sell them at a discount, but my 2 closest dealers wanted almost $50 for one. I'd recommend having one on hand in case you find you do need it.

The timimg gear that goes behind the pulley/harmonic balancer apparantly is only available through Subaru dealers. MSRP is only around $35, and several dealers sell them at a discount, but my 2 closest dealers wanted almost $50 for one. I'd recommend having one on hand in case you find you do need it.

Thanks for the tip! Considering my unhealthy interest in anything with an EJ22, worst case scenario is that I won't need it for this one but will need it for who knows what in the future

buy a used crank sprocket.

any one who has done a ej25 bad head gasket to ej22 swap has one siting around.

it should be cheap to buy.

or try http://www.car-part.com

Sprocket has been purchased! I'm going all out with this, so I got

Timing belt, idlers, tensioner pulley

Crank and cam seals

Harmonic balancer, bolt, woodruff key

Water pump and gasket

Oil pump o-ring

bypass hose

And I'll probably pick up rad hoses and a thermostat.

I also took the opportunity and got an impact gun with accessories to make the job a little easier, especially with those cam bolts.

Anything obvious I'm missing? The hydraulic tensioner looked ok, but I'll wipe it down and look for leaks whenever I reload it tp be a little more certain.

And I'll probably pick up ..... a thermostat.

do not replace the t-stat unless it comes from subaru.

you will regret it.

if it was not over heating you don't need to replace it.

if you do replace it,

it MUST be a subaru item.

do not replace the t-stat unless it comes from subaru.

you will regret it.

 

if it was not over heating you don't need to replace it.

if you do replace it,

it MUST be a subaru item.

Thanks for the reminder. Now that I remembered what an easy job it is, I'll probably put it off for a bit and replace it with OEM before winter.

Everything has been going pretty well. I have everything apart, cam seals have been done, water pump is off, but I can't get the crank sprocket off.

I've tried pulling, wiggling with screwdrivers, soft hammer taps, and a puller that I can't get behind the sprocket.

The key is still in the crank, but looks a little bent from the crank pulley, so I'll try filing that down today. If that still doesn't work, I can tap the holes of the sprocket and use a steering wheel puller.

And if that doesn't work, does anyone have any more ideas? I DO have a replacement sprocket.

Thanks again!

If that still doesn't work, I can tap the holes of the sprocket and use a steering wheel puller.

i did this on my first one and my key was not messed up.

i did not know any better and was afraid i would damage something.

if the key is messed up,

it is likely that the sprocket keyway is messed up as well.

so using a bit more hammer will not hurt anything.

you'll need to replace it anyway.

have you sprayed it?

try tapping it to the rear?

the ''tabs'' on the rear will break,

so if you plan on reusing it ,

be careful when prying.

It's been sprayed down a few times with PB blaster. I filed the visible key away last night and found the keyway actually looks to be perfect, but I'll know for certain when I get it off.

I've tried getting a small chisel in behind it, and can get the tip in. It won't budge when I try prying, and I found that I can rotate it with a breaker bar and a socket, but I fear for the oil pump behind it.

I got one hole started with the tap, and then the cheap tap handle broke, so I have to finish that and try the puller before I go ape on the chisel method.

has run into them that are tight enough that he had to torch off.

i had a shop put my first one back together.

they used a permanent ''loc-tite''.

he said it MIGHT come apart if you put a torch on it.

some folks do recommend using loc-tite,

especially on the ones that have already loosened up once.

but i stick with 137 ft. lbs.