COBB (Stoptech) Front and Rear Install Thread

Well, I can never pass up a good deal, or the chance to play w/ cool toys, so...

 

And as some of you know, I research this stuff, especially brake bias, as much or more than LBGT

 

This arrived on my door step today

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/NiceBoxes.jpg

 

Inside were these lovely toys..

COBB Front 332x32mm BBK

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/Front332x32mm.jpg

 

COBB Rear 328x28mm BBK

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/Rear328x28mm.jpg

This won't be a full guide because there are a lot out there, but I will step through what I did...

 

 

Front Install

Front Brake Removal

 

1) Obviously jack up the car, put it on stands and remove the tires. I am also assuming you either know your rims will fit with the new kit, or that you check clearance sometime during the install. Also, wash the new rotors using dish soap and a scotch-brite pad to remove the anti-rust coating before installing them.

2) Spray down the rubber brake line to hard line connection w/ PB blaster.

3) Disconnect the brake line from the strut. (12mm socket)

4) After the joint has soaked a little while, use a 10mm flare nut wrench and a 17 mm wrench (if you have stock rubber lines) to detach the brake line from the hard line. Make sure you have a good flare nut wrench (Craftsman or better) and that you have good contact with the brass nut so that you don't round it. Put the rubber nipple from the stock caliper over the hard line to minimize brake fluid drain. Use a set of pliers and/or as crew driver to pull out the line retaining clip.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RemovingBrakelines1.jpg

 

5) Remove the two caliper bolts on the back of the hub. (17mm socket plus a long extension for the top bolt)

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RemovingCaliperBolts.jpg

 

6) Remove the front caliper now that it is unbolted. You can lay it off to the side.

7) Next, remove the rotor. If it seems to be frozen to the hub, remove the two M8 bolts holding the radiator (it won't fall out, don't worry) and insert them into the two small holes in the brake rotor. Gradually tighten these bolts into the rotor, going back and forth to make sure you don't bind the bolt. This will free the rotor. Once free, back the bolts out of the rotor before removing it from the hub.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontHub.jpg

 

Front Stoptech Kit Install

 

1) Attach the caliper bracket supplied with the kit. Torque it to 80 ft-lbs w/ a 17mm socket.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontHubwithCaliperBracket.jpg

 

Front Rotor Comparison to iON Racing 2-piece Stock sized Rotor (316mm)

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontRotorComparison.jpg

 

2) Put the Stoptech rotor on the hub. Make sure the slots point forward at the top, and the vanes to the rear. If it is a new kit, there should be an L or R on the rotor to help out. You will have to use a rubber mallet to “massage” the front dust shield so the rotor does not rub. You can remove it, but that involves some more work that I didn’t do, so I don’t have the steps for it. The only problem area when bending it is the area of the dust shield right next to the tie rod. You need about 1 mm of clearance, so just keep working on it until you get that much with the new rotor fully seated against the hub.

3) Prepare the front caliper. Make sure that you have the correct caliper by checking that when the logo faces outboard, the bleeding bolts are up. Remove the two caliper bridge bolts using a 5mm hex wrench. Remove the Caliper Bridge. You may have to tap it out from the inside using the handle of a hammer.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontCaliperwithPadsandretainingbri.jpg

 

4) Mount the caliper on the caliper bracket bolts. You will probably have to gradually tap the caliper in place, going back and forth between the two sides to make sure the caliper does not mis-align on the bolts. Once it is seated, put a 12mm washer and jet nut on each bolt. Torque the nut to 40 ft-lbs w/ a 13mm socket.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontCaliperonrotor.jpg

 

5) Insert the pads into the caliper making sure the friction surface faces the rotor. Again, you might need to lightly tap them w/ a rubber mallet.

6) Put anti-seize some on the threads and the shaft of each of caliper bridge bolts. Line up the upper hole of the bridge with the holes in the caliper. Make sure the retaining clip is oriented so the weld is covered from the outside. Also, the bridge should be oriented so that the opening is facing up. (the scoop starts at the top of the bridge and gets deeper until the hole as you go down towards the ground) Start the bolt through the hole that is lined up. You might have to tap the bridge to align the holes, but do not tap the bridge bolt into place. Start a few threads.

7) Push the Caliper bridge into place and insert the second caliper bridge bolt. You again might have to tap the bridge with a rubber mallet to help align the holes, but do not tap the bridge bolt into place.

8) Tighten both bridge bolts, torque to 14 ft-lbs with a 5mm hex wrench. This is a good time to check wheel clearance if you don’t know for sure.

9) Attach the new brake line to the strut, installing the bolt with a 12mm socket. Torque to 24 ft-lbs.

10) Attach the brake line to the caliper. Remove the rubber nipple in the back of the caliper. Use the supplied banjo bolt with a brass washer on each side of the line. Torque to 14 ft-lbs using a 9/16 socket.

11) Remove the rubber nipple from the hard line. Hand start the new brake line onto the hard line. You can use a 10mm open wrench to tighten the flare nut, but as soon as the nut is slightly tight, use the flare nut wrench. You will need a 17 mm wrench to hold the steel brake line in place. Torque the flare nut to 12-14 ft-lbs. Install a new line retaining clip using a hammer.

12) Step back and admire your work.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontInstalled1.jpg

 

 

Rear Install

Rear Brake Removal

 

1) Spray down the rubber brake line to hard line connections w/ PB blaster. On the Legacy, there are 3 of these per side. There is the connection from the rear-rear rubber line to the rear-rear hard line right by the rear caliper. Next, that rear-rear hard line connects to the front rear rubber line about 8-10” further forward on the car. Lastly, the front-rear rubber line connects to the front-rear hard line that goes to the master cylinder further forward on the car.

2) After the joints have soaked a little while, use a 10mm flare nut wrench and a 17 mm wrench (if you have stock rubber lines) to detach the front-rear rubber brake line from the front-rear hard line that goes to the master cylinder. Again, make sure you have a good flare nut wrench (Craftsman or better) and that you have good contact with the brass nut so that you don't round it. Put the rubber nipple from the stock caliper over the hard line to minimize brake fluid drain. Use a set of pliers and/or a screw driver to pull out the line retaining clip.

3) Next use the 10mm flare nut wrench and a 17 mm wrench to detach the front-rear brake line from the rear-rear hard line. Again, make sure you have good contact with the brass nut so that you don't round it. Use a set of pliers and/or a screw driver to pull out the line retaining clip.

4) Finally, use the 10mm flare nut wrench and a 17 mm wrench again to detach the rear-rear brake line from the rear-rear hard line. Make sure you have good contact with the brass nut so that you don't round it. Use a set of pliers and/or a screw driver to pull out the line retaining clip.

5) Remove the two caliper bolts on the back of the hub. (14mm socket plus a long extension for both bolts)

6) Remove the rear caliper now that it is unbolted. You can lay it off to the side.

7) Next, remove the rotor. If it seems to be frozen to the hub, use the same two M8 bolts from the radiator and insert them into the two small holes in the brake rotor. Gradually tighten these bolts into the rotor, going back and forth to make sure you don't bind the bolt. This will free the rotor. Once free, back the bolts out of the rotor before removing it from the hub. If you have removed all four rotors now, it is a good time to put the radiator bolts back so you remember to do it.

8) Remove the dust shield. It is connected to the hub by about 7 spot welds. To remove it, you grab the dust shield with some pliers and work it back and forth till the weld pops free. You can also use a screw driver to pry the weld free by inserting it in between the shield and the hub from behind and prying forward. Once you have removed about three welds this way, you can actually grab the freed portion of the dust shield with your hands and work it back and forth to free the rest of the welds.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/Rearhubwithdustshieldremoved.jpg

 

Rear Stoptech Kit Install

 

1) Attach the caliper bracket supplied with the kit. Torque it to 40 ft-lbs w/ a 14mm socket.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/Rearhubwithcaliperbracket.jpg

 

 

Rear Rotor Comparison to Racing Brake 316mm Kit

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RearRotorComparison1.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RearRotorComparison2.jpg

 

 

Rear Parking Brake Detail

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/ParkingBrake.jpg

 

2) Put the Stoptech rotor on the hub. Make sure the slots point forward at the top, and the vanes to the rear. If it is a new kit, there should be an L or R on the rotor to help out.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/Rearrotorinstalled.jpg

 

3) Prepare the rear caliper. Again, make sure that you have the correct caliper by checking that when the logo faces outboard, the bleeding bolts are up. Remove the two pad retaining pins by pushing down one end of the pad retaining spring and pulling out one of the pins. The other will slide out freely now. Remove the Pad retaining spring.

4) Put a washer on each of the Caliper bracket bolts and a little thread locker on the end of the threads. Hold the caliper up to the caliper bracket and thread the two caliper bracket bolts. Tighten the bolts and torque to 40 ft-lbs w/ a 10mm hex wrench.

5) Insert the pads into the caliper making sure the friction surface faces the rotor. Again, you might need to lightly tap them w/ a rubber mallet.

6) Start both pad retaining pins from the outboard side of the caliper, feeding them into the outer pad holes.

7) Put the pad retaining spring into place and push one of the pad retaining pins over the spring and through the pad and caliper on the inboard side.

8) push down on the pad retaining spring with your finger so that you can feed the second pad retaining pin across the spring and into the pad and caliper on the inboard side. Push both pins until the snap into place with the spring sitting in the notch on the pins.

9) Attach the brake line to the caliper. Remove the rubber nipple in the back of the caliper. Use the supplied banjo bolt with a brass washer on each side of the line. Torque to 14 ft-lbs using a 9/16 socket.

10) Hand start the new rear-rear brake line onto the rear-rear hard line. You can use a 10mm open wrench to tighten the flare nut, but as soon as the nut is slightly tight, use the flare nut wrench. Use the 17 mm wrench to hold the steel brake line in place. Torque the flare nut to 12-14 ft-lbs. Install a new line retaining clip using a hammer.

11) Hand start the new front-rear brake line onto the rear-rear hard line. Use a 10mm open wrench to tighten the flare nut, but as soon as the nut is slightly tight, use the flare nut wrench. Use the 17 mm wrench to hold the steel brake line in place. Torque the flare nut to 12-14 ft-lbs. Install a new line retaining clip using a hammer.

12) Remove the rubber nipple from the front-rear hard line that goes to the master cylinder and hand start the new front-rear brake line onto the front-rear hard line. Use a 10mm open wrench to tighten the flare nut, but as soon as the nut is slightly tight, use the flare nut wrench. Use the 17 mm wrench to hold the steel brake line in place. Torque the flare nut to 12-14 ft-lbs. Install a new line retaining clip using a hammer.

13) Step back and admire your work

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RearInstalled1.jpg

 

After bleeding, checking for leaks, and checking clearance on the front brake lines as you turn the steering wheel lock to lock, install the rims and check clearance again. (You should check clearance way before now too)

 

Now put your car down, torque the lug nuts to 87 ft-lbs and go bed in your brakes

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/FrontInstalled3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Install/RearInstalled4.jpg

 

Some Notes:

Bleeding: The bleeding procedure for these brakes is slightly different since every caliper has two bleeding screws. Start with the outboard bleeding screw on the passenger front of the car. Once you bleed that, proceed to the inboard screw. Next, go to the driver’s rear caliper and do the outboard screw. Then the inboard. Next is the Driver’s font outboard screw, then the inboard screw. And last is the passenger rear outboard screw and then the inboard screw.

 

Bedding: The bedding procedure from Stoptech calls for 10 stops from 60-5-10 mph with no rest in between. After this, park the car using the brakes as little as possible and let them cool for an hour or two. You could also drive on the interstate for 10-20 minutes depending on ambient temperatures. DO NOT COME TO A STOP USING THE BRAKES DURING BEDDING.

Reserved for Installed pics

Yum Yum!

 

I have to admit that will look a lot cooler then my AP front only BBK!

cuantos cuestas??

does this mean i'll be getting my brakes soon too?

Very nice:):)

 

Someone must have been smiled upon by uncle sam;)

I have to admit that will look a lot cooler then my AP front only BBK!

Ha, yeah, but your's will be lighter

 

axis, sent you a PM...

 

does this mean i'll be getting my brakes soon too?

Just wating for the spacers for my rims

 

And wukindada, well Someone has to compete w/ you now that Magic is gone

i just sold my old H&R 15mm spacers a month or two ago

Ha, yeah, but your's will be lighter

 

 

Make sure you weigh them, as I will be weighing mine as well.

 

Are these the Stoptech calipers that have the bridge piece that bolts in to aid in caliper stiffness?

 

Are you getting 5 mm spacers?

 

 

 

Something I was thinking of doing to really compare fade difference:

 

Drive on your brakes right now and do back to back 80-40 mph slow-downs at 90% before ABS and see how many times you do this until you get signs of fade. Then repeat with the Stoptech kit once everything is all bedded in.

Make sure you weigh them, as I will be weighing mine as well.

 

Are these the Stoptech calipers that have the bridge piece that bolts in to aid in caliper stiffness?

 

Are you getting 5 mm spacers?

 

 

 

Something I was thinking of doing to really compare fade difference:

 

Drive on your brakes right now and do back to back 80-40 mph slow-downs at 90% before ABS and see how many times you do this until you get signs of fade. Then repeat with the Stoptech kit once everything is all bedded in.

I will do my best to weigh them

 

These do have the bridge, just like the Stoptechs (They are the stoptechs )

 

I am putting on 3mm spacers. I hope that is enough. It appears to be using the caliper clearance template, but barely. 5mm spacers w/ my current rims would mean rolling the fenders This does give me a good reason to buy some rims though

 

I will try to do the fade thing, my week will be really hectic and I haven't found any good places to do something like that here in CO

 

Ted

I will do my best to weigh them

 

These do have the bridge, just like the Stoptechs (They are the stoptechs )

 

I am putting on 3mm spacers. I hope that is enough. It appears to be using the caliper clearance template, but barely. 5mm spacers w/ my current rims would mean rolling the fenders This does give me a good reason to buy some rims though

 

I will try to do the fade thing, my week will be really hectic and I haven't found any good places to do something like that here in CO

 

Ted

 

According to COBB you need 5mm spacers for the OEM wheels, but maybe you are using different wheels?

I just installed MINI specific StopTechs on Saturday (not on my car, unfortunately). I can say the directions are thorough and the install is easy. The only snag we ran into was the Axxis pads were too tall to fit - the backing plate was large by a few mm. Nothing a file and a vise couldn't handle however. Overall, an impressive, well thought out pkg (not that this is a surprise).

Here are some pictures compared to my rims. I will be running the summer 5zigen's until I get some SSR Type CSs or Gram Light 57Fs. They will just barely clear

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/FrontCaliperSize1.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/FrontCaliperSize2.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/FrontRotorSize.jpg

Ohhhhhhh. That's why they call them big...

 

4 or 6 piston? And do you lose use of the ebrake with the Cobb rear bbk? If not, HOW???

4 piston.

 

Looks good!

yep, 4 piston. Supposedly, you do not loose the e-brake. Looking at the kit, I don't see how that is possible. I e-mailing back and forth with COBB right now...

Figured out the e-brake. There is a second aluminum "wall" inside the rear hats. This wall is flat to allow the drum brake to push against. Looks like it will work well

 

Ted

/\ pics?

putting them on tonight...right?

Here you go! Hope it shows up...

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/RearRotorHat2.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/BBK/Before/RearRotorHat1.jpg

 

 

And sadly, no, I won't be putting them on tonight. I am waiting on the spacers to come in, and some tools for the install. I promise to do them as quickly as possible mwiener

ok, I see now.

So what did you do with the DBA's?????

Ted-

they are very pretty, congrats!

... if you don't mind the query,,, what'd they set you back?

Don't do too many handbrake turns. I bet that aluminum wouldn't stand up to that much abuse for long.