caramall2 Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 My front diff was shot so I had a local shop install a whole used transmission (but not a new clutch). Everything seemed great but the next day my clutch started slipping (typical high torque, lower rpm (3k) pulls under load). The clutch didn't come out during the trans swap. It has about 12k but it is a FX350 (just seems many complaining about these going early (at least fx300s)). Just strange that I had zero slippage before the swap. 1). Is there any adjustment that could be wrong (it's hydraulic so not sure what adjustment there is)? The engagement point is higher than before but I don't think that would prevent it from engaging fully, correct? 2). Could fluid or something have gotten on the clutch? Would that just "burn off"? 3) other? Of course now wish I had put in a new clutch :-0. Labor is a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 I'm also getting a P852 code which is the park neutral switch input Circuit high. If the fork wasn't being placed correctly, wouldn't it just not fully disengage but it would fully engaged? Or could it work both ways?I'm Not real smart on that. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Call the shop and find out if they can inspect their work. It's possible that you just have bad timing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 ^ like he said, with the history of these clutches lasting about 15,000 miles. I was just guessing and hoping for the simple fix. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 I'm brining it by the shop tomorrow, but unfortunately I'm thinking it may be bad timing. What a waste of cash though if they have to do all that work again ;-( Gotta find a clutch to last me more than 15 or 20k! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 I have great luck with Spec clutches. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Thanks. My ACT Street Clutch lasted me almost 25,000 miles and that even with using it on the circuit track some. Love the light pedal feel of my FX 350 though. I'll have to check out the spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Max, did you use Spec stage 2? How was pedal feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 A little heaver then the stock clutch in my Spec B. It really is a just a little stiffer. Hardly noticeable. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 ACT HDSS is another good one. I am on my second FX300. I think the first failed due to my driving it (improper break-in?) I'll report back if I make it past 32k miles on this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly. Maybe you have something. Trans guys said fork hitting case. I took pic. They're thinking maybe it's not letting clutch engage fully. They're concerned there may be a difference in my clutch vs one installed, even though both from 2005 LGT. They're going to take it back apart....more to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Whoa. Before all that labor, try pressing it toward the back of the car. It looks like it just popped off the pivot ball. Well, maybe. It also looks like the clutch actuates opposite of USDM cars. Is it a 5MT or 6MT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritefiend Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Make sure the slave cylinder is pushing the fork correctly. You can remove the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot and look inside and make sure the fork is positioned correctly. this is exactly what the cause of my clutch issues were after putting a new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Yea, after all the moving around getting the tranny in the fork can fall off the ball. been there, done that. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 So they think maybe the sleeve on the thrust bearing wasn't far enough back and made fork hit front and not fully engage clutch plates. They tapped it back about 1/16" of an inch and they said the ball knob that the fork rotates on was slightly longer or shorter on one trans compared to the other (weird...both from 2005 LGT). After looking at the clutch plate and measuring thickness, it's slightly below manufacuter recommendation (0.275 minimum vs mine is 0.250). So, 1) do I get a new plate from Clutchmasters while everything is torn apart (they want like $320 :-0) or do I buy a whole new Spec clutch for something like $600? 2) is the TSK3 thrust bearing an important upgrade to keep or should I just throw in a new stock bearing and remove the sleeve? I need to order pronto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 The ID of the TOB I believe are the same. I'm replacing mine with the TOB that came with my Spec 2 clutch kit. I had Mike at AZP send a TSK3 TOB which I put on back with the ej257. Trannys out of the car now and I'll replace the TOB. $320 is a lot less then 600, its your money. There is only one pivot ball. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_25/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Only replace the stock bearing with TSK3 bearing and sleeve if it looks like there's damage to the quill. Do you have a photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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