Clutch pedal creaking sound - ONLY WHEN HOT

When depressing my clutch pedal, it makes a distinct creaking noise just before it reaches the floor (during the last 25% of travel). The pedal makes the same sound when letting it out as well.

 

• This only occurs after driving in stop-and-go traffic and the vehicle is hot. When the vehicle is "cold", the pedal is silent and smooth (I live in Hawaii).
  
• This noise is audible both inside and outside of the vehicle. It is not a metallic sound, but rather sounds like squeaking rubber.
  
• If I shut off the engine and depress the pedal, the creaking noise continues until the vehicle cools. For this reason I don't believe it's related to the throw-out bearing or anything serious within the transmission.
  
• When this sound occurs, I can feel slight resistance in the clutch pedal, like the mechanism is dragging against a piece of heavy rubber.
  
• Actual clutch functionality does not seem to be affected (aside from the Legacy's regular quirks).
  

Because the noise is audible outside of the vehicle, I don't think it's related to th noisy pedal switches.

 

Has anybody else had a similar issue? Which portions of the clutch pedal mechanism did you lubricate exactly? I'm stumped!

Check out the pedal pivot point itself and the clutch slave cylinder, which is located on the top of the transmission under the intercooler.

Wow, a search paid off. I am having this EXACT same problem - same details and all. I have an appt with service next Wednesday. The problem is that I can't duplicate it unless I go around using the clutch quite a bit (as though I am driving in traffic). Any update on your end?

same issue here...started after i swapped out stock clutch for ACT...now that its freezing outside I dont hear it, I'm sure it'll be back in the spring/summer...

anyone try greasing the pedal in the car?

Weird, I'm having almost the same symptoms, but it only happens when my car is cold. It's been 65+ degrees here the last few days, and it's been virtually non-existent. But if I get in my car to drive at night, the noise persists until the car gets warm.

anyone try greasing the pedal in the car?

 

Yes, I have many times with no success

Wow, a search paid off. I am having this EXACT same problem - same details and all. I have an appt with service next Wednesday. The problem is that I can't duplicate it unless I go around using the clutch quite a bit (as though I am driving in traffic). Any update on your end?

 

No updates here. There is only 1 dealership on the island, and I've been way too busy to get an appointment there. This noise has been happening for a while now.

 

Did you have yours looked at yet?

I actually did. I brought it in yesterday and they couldn't find anything...(i knew they would say that because it only happens after driving for an hour or more and when I am really using the clutch a lot, not on the highway). They asked to hold on to it for today to see how it does when it is cold. Again, nothing. I asked them to lubricate the pivot point and the pedal, but said they wouldnt do that unless they could see a problem (understandable). I don't blame them for not being able to do anything, but it puts us in a bit of a predicament. Perhaps I will stop by there with the car next time it is doing it and see if a tech can go for a ride if it's not too busy. Do let us know if you find out anything. Overall, car drives fine - not the biggest problem, just sound.

Check out the pedal pivot point itself and the clutch slave cylinder, which is located on the top of the transmission under the intercooler.

+1

 

I had this issue and I fixed it this way...

 

1.) Remove the TMIC to gain access to the top of the bellhousing.

2.) Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the block (leave the hydraulic line hooked up) and move out of the way.

3.) Peel forward the rubber boot around the clutch fork arm.

4.) With your right hand, slide your finger down until you feel the pivot ball for the clutch fork.

5.) Now that you know where it is... remove your hand, and place some clean high temperaure grease on the end of your right index finger. Slide your hand back in and rub the greas one the top of the joint between the clutch fork and pivot ball.

6.) Re-install the rubber boot on the bellhousing.

7.) Clean the reciever dimple in the top of the clutch fork and put a dab of grease in the dimple.

8.) Clean off the end of the slave cylinder pushrod and then mount the slave cylinder back onto the block.

9.) Work the clutch pedal a few times and the grease will work into the joints.

10.) You're done... have a beer!

+1

 

I had this issue and I fixed it this way...

 

1.) Remove the TMIC to gain access to the top of the bellhousing.

2.) Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the block (leave the hydraulic line hooked up) and move out of the way.

3.) Peel forward the rubber boot around the clutch fork arm.

4.) With your right hand, slide your finger down until you feel the pivot ball for the clutch fork.

5.) Now that you know where it is... remove your hand, and place some clean high temperaure grease on the end of your right index finger. Slide your hand back in and rub the greas one the top of the joint between the clutch fork and pivot ball.

6.) Re-install the rubber boot on the bellhousing.

7.) Clean the reciever dimple in the top of the clutch fork and put a dab of grease in the dimple.

8.) Clean off the end of the slave cylinder pushrod and then mount the slave cylinder back onto the block.

9.) Work the clutch pedal a few times and the grease will work into the joints.

10.) You're done... have a beer!

 

Thanks so much for the info! I'm hoping to get around to this sometime over the weekend. I've honestly been avoiding it because I knew it would involve taking the intercooler out.

 

Is there a specific type of grease I should be using? I want to make sure I don't use something that's "incompatible" with the existing grease in the pivot.

I used red synthetic high temp grease (wheel bearing type). Just a little bit... you don't want to glob it on... just a light coat.

So after numerous times of taking it to Subaru and them telling me that they "couldn't duplicate the problem", I decided to drive in when it was doing it loudly. On my way home from work, I stopped by and spoke to one of the techs that worked on the car. He clearly heard the noise. Unfortunately, I need to wait 2-3 weeks before I can get the car in. All he did was listen to it, he didn't begin diagnosing or anything like that. I'm afraid that when I bring it in again, he won't be able to duplicate it then to diagnose it and therefore won't be able to do anything.

 

In any case, I also decided to do a quick "voice note" recording on my cell phone - sorry for the poor quality, but it's the best I have. Can we confirm that we are all talking about the same noise? Also notice that popping noise that I get when the clutch is first released with the car running (?) It only happens when the car is running as you can hear. Turn up your speakers...

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjeXXrK1oPQ]Clutch Noise[/ame]

Same problem here in my 2008 2.5i I can leave the office and no problems at all then after traffic I can hear the same noise. I greased pedal to no avail but never thought to grease pivot ball. Will do this weekend and hope that helps

snoman & mccorry, is this your same issue?

Mine was higher pitch ... more of a squeek than a chatter.

As an update, I finally got the car to the dealer when they could really hear the noise. Today, Saturday, they did a bit of investigation for about 10 minutes and then came out and told me that they are going to need to drop the transmission - the tech is thinking that it may be involved with the pressure plate. In any case, they are holding onto the car until about Tuesday or Wednesday and gave me a loaner - no expenses to me on anything.

Well the above reference lube method did not work for my 08 2.5i I peeled the boot back but i cannot get my fingers on the pivot ball to grease it. Ima take it to the dealer while its creaking and drop it off and let them do as they see fits its under warranty and this isnt a wear related issue from what I can gather

My car is still at the dealer and they are planning on holding onto it for another 6 days (I have a loaner on their dime). They are replacing the flywheel and the pressure plate (where the problem was) all under warranty. I have 40K on the car, and they recommended that I swap out the clutch disc and the throwout bearing now since the tranny is already out of the car at Subaru's expense. They are only going to charge me parts for the 2 - $275. The clutch is probably 45-50% worn, but it's worth the deal in the long run.

 

Anyone else have problems with their pressure plate like this?

My car is still at the dealer and they are planning on holding onto it for another 6 days (I have a loaner on their dime). They are replacing the flywheel and the pressure plate (where the problem was) all under warranty. I have 40K on the car, and they recommended that I swap out the clutch disc and the throwout bearing now since the tranny is already out of the car at Subaru's expense. They are only going to charge me parts for the 2 - $275. The clutch is probably 45-50% worn, but it's worth the deal in the long run.

 

Anyone else have problems with their pressure plate like this?

 

SAME HERE DUDE!

 

I got the exact same advice and i think i will follow your route the dealer told me that my PP and TOB were fouled the clutch had about 60% life after 52K miles. However my dealer told me $299 for the DISC alone and that the TOB and PP were under warranty. IDk what the issue is but they must know something b/c ive never beat on my baby no launches no goosing no gearing down under load and it still Effs up.

 

My clutch was in good shape but I think it is a fault PP TOB issue inherent in our year range. he also told me a week I hope the dealer doesn't bash it too much or tear the new clutch out those shit heads!

hmm, mine makes a clicking noise only when it is hot, I can feel it through the pedal, it clicks once about 2/3 way down and as soon as it is fully disengaged it clicks again (so basically you can hear every time i put the clutch in and take the clutch out) very annoying. I told the dealer about it when I first got the car and they told me to take it in, well it stopped happening, then a month later it started up again.. went on for a day or 2 and i was going to wait for day 3 before i called the dealer and set up an appointment (i know if i cant reproduce it they will not be able to help) but it stopped. it seems to only happen when it is really warm around the clutch pedal, more so in the summer and spring time.. If i have my floor vents on with the heat blasted in the winter, after a few hours of driving it will start up again. weather the car is on or not the noise still happens, its just so frustrating cause' i have no idea how long its going to last.

 

Im going to try and grease it hopefully that's all it is. I just don't want to drive the car out of warentee and end up needing to replace the TOB and PP at my own expense, when it was an issue from day 1(under 200 miles on the clock and it started happening).

 

what do you guys think I should do?

Subscribing. Same problem, only when warm. Considering taking to dealer before 60k to see if it will be warrantied.

in for "after dealership replaces everything" feedback

The dealer replaced everything - they did a nice job. They kept me in the loaner for about a week (all on them). I paid $300 for a new clutch and throw-out. They told me to drive it easily for the first 500 miles, so I am doing so - about 250 miles in so far. The car is driving very nicely and I'm pleased. The issue appears to be resolved!

Have same issue, had it on my old (stock) clutch and the ACT, I am thinking in my case it is the pivot as described above. Thanks for the write-up I will have to give this a try and see if it solves my issue.