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Clock Relocation or Clock Replacement?


CombatCQB

Clock Relocation or Clock Replacement?  

20 members have voted

  1. 1. Clock Relocation or Clock Replacement?

    • Relocation (bezel)
      14
    • Replacement (USB device)
      6


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I just finished relocating my clock to the ashtray. I used the ashtray cover to create a new bezel for the clock. My first thought was to take the new bezel and resin cast a few copies to help others relocate their clock. This should be fairly easy, cheap and available quickly.

 

My next thought then is how to replace the clock all together for CarPCs. Basically a USB device that will read the serial data and let the PC read it back. It'll also control physical buttons like the bright switch and provide status of the pass airbag. The down side is that it'll take quite a bit longer to do this since I still haven't scoped out the data signals or picked out hardware.

 

So would ppl still need a clock relocation bezel now if there was a USB replacement in the future?

 

Attached are pics of the bezel I made.

1121565025_IMG_0425(Large).thumb.JPG.9e46c1b5edc36209cd87540749ce4bc7.JPG

749145846_IMG_0426(Large).thumb.JPG.596daddf9843b98559ab1897f7f2f394.JPG

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I've never cast resin before, but I'm going to pick up a kit later and try it just as a learning experience. If people keep wanting it, I'll have the mold to keep making them.

 

No extension harness is needed. Check the other thread on relocation. You simply unclip the cable from the top cubby frame and there is more than enough cable to reach the ashtray. All I needed for my relocation was epoxy putty to remold the bezel and relocate the ashtray screw posts. The shifter trim requires no modification other than removing the screws that hold the ashtray to it.

 

Agree on the clock, there is no point to recreate a clock.

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I'm not too interested in a clock relocation, but I would like something like an "ashtray delete" panel. I was thinking about trying to fabricate a bezel / panel to replace the ashtray, where I could mount a few controls for a Cleansweep / bass control / aux selection.

 

You've got a really nice fit in those photos. Any chance you could create a blank panel (i.e. with no cut-out for the clock)? Then I'd just need to drill a few holes to mount the knobs.

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My next thought then is how to replace the clock all together for CarPCs. Basically a USB device that will read the serial data and let the PC read it back. It'll also control physical buttons like the bright switch and provide status of the pass airbag. The down side is that it'll take quite a bit longer to do this since I still haven't scoped out the data signals or picked out hardware.

 

I bought one of the first AVO relocation kits, but I'd like to know what signal the BCU expects back for the airbag indicator so I can fake it and lose the clock if I want and build better display, hub, power plug down there.

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I just finished relocating my clock to the ashtray. I used the ashtray cover to create a new bezel for the clock. My first thought was to take the new bezel and resin cast a few copies to help others relocate their clock. This should be fairly easy, cheap and available quickly.

 

 

 

Attached are pics of the bezel I made.

Great job on the bezel!

May I know how did you make it?

Step by step instruction, please!

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Great job!! Yeah, I want the bezel, too!

 

In fact, I'd like both: the bezel and an interface to get all these values into a carputer (avg/current mileage, outside temp).

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For those worrying about the extension harness for relocating the clock. You don't need it. All you have to do is get in behind the cubby and radio and unhook the clock harness from one of the support beams and it will be long enough (just barely).
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Making the bezel is more time consuming than difficult. I started by tracing the outline of the trip comp onto a piece of masking tape. After disassembling the ashtray to remove the cover, I taped the masking tape to the cover and cut out the opening. Epoxy putty was used around the back side to build up an edge. Then it's just a matter of filing and sanding it to fit. I used more epoxy around the top edge to give it more of an angle. Also, the chrome piece on the ashtray cover will leave a large void, more putty there.

 

After using it for a week, I think I need more angle to see the display better. I'll try to get that with the casting.

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you know.. avoturboworld has a kit you can EASILY adapt to fit, thats what I did, the only problem with it was the 7-9 pin wire harness problem, but I fixed that (see my website for more info on that OR search for the carputer thread on the forum here where we talked at length about it) your work looks GREAT tho, I really like it. if you can make it for cheaper than avo is selling it, I say go for it, competition is good for everyone... unless you're violating some copyright law or something heh

 

I love relocating the clock, the other day I was in a friends legacy who has the clock in the stock location, his GF asked what the temp was outside (she rides in back cos shes really nice and I'm too big for the backseat, my heat rubs on the headliner) and I was actually about to say "wheres your info center man?" from looking at the ashtray lol

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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The only reason I didn't buy the avo kit is price. Nothing against AVO or JDM parts, just didn't make financial sense to me. I've always been curious about casting resin anyway. If something good comes out of it, then that would be even better. Technically, my bezel only cost me $10 for the epoxy.

 

darkfox1, I like how your carputer is turning out. What GPS software are you using?

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I'm using streets and trips right now but I plan to switch to mappoint when we get phase II done just because its... well.. better heh

 

Thats one thing that concerned me when I began all this stuff, there was a company in japan that was doing similar to what you're doing making these items and would sell them to people.This was before the avo unit was even avalible over there in japan. I tried to contact the guy, but he never got back to me, they said they took english emails but apparntly.. they didn't understand what I wanted or maybe I did something culturally wrong.. who knows.. either way, that was one of the concerns that a lot of peopel had from their product too was that the angle made it hard to read from the sitting angle. The avo kit is perfect for that, but $200 vs $10 is a hands down obvious choice. It was a tough bullet to bite to buy the avo kit, but it was worth it IMO cos I dont have any fiberglass skillz.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men." - Plato
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