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Check engine light and blinking cruise light


jerami1981

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Ok, i've read over the other stuff posted by people, i've seen the temp fix of disconnecting the battery and what not, but what i am trying to find out is this: Has the problem actually been pinpointed to any one thing and if so what is it? I had a 2003 sub outback ltd and i am familiar with the gas cap problem so i turn the shizzle out of it, forget 5 clicks, forget 10 clicks, i turn till i am tired, i hated that freaking check engine light just because my cap was loose, so i know its not a loose gas cap on my car.
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To be honest i had already done the quick fix before checking to see if i had any replies. The quick fix did indeed get rid of the guages. I am not in the mood to have my car in the dealership again since my wagon had lots of electrical problems. If however this reoccurs i will be forced to take it to the dealership t get it more extensively looked at and i will at that time post any findings that i feel are honest.
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Anyone know exactly what i need to do to get the code to flash on my display screen, i have heard mention of plugging something in to activate that. My warning lights are back on so i thought now would be a good time to try out the little feature. I am calling Sub tomorrow morning bright and early to see when they can take a look at it.
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Ok, i'm a dumbass for not reading your post Trent, i did however finally bump into that thread and finallly found those plugs. Tried every combo with those plugs, just white, just green, green and white, never could get anything to come up on my damn trip dialog screen. I cycled through all the options over and over again, i let it do its mileage counter thingy a few times over and over, but never got anything that looked like a code, it did however make my guages continually do full sweeps over and over again :), but not very useful for what i am needing.
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I haven't tried it myself so I don't know how it works for sure. (For those that are not able to find the connectors, I found them behind the carpet where the carpet meets the kick panel under the glove box.) I have read that you have to push the trip button as the car is first turned to "ON". (Don't start it) Also, if the CEL is not lit, I will bet that it doesn't work since it doesn't know that there's anything to display. (But I could be wrong) I would guess that it's a current DTC display as opposed to a historic DTC display. I have a ODBII scanner in the form of a product called Autotap for my GTP. I am going to have to see if they work with Subaru connectors. It's always been specific to GM (and later, Ford) products.
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Only mods i have done is removing the orange reflectors in the turn signals and i added the Mcculloch HID kit. I wouldn't imagine either of these are affecting anything. I was told to replace the head light fuses with 15 amp ones instead of the 7.5 they come with, sinc ei only had one 15 i used a 20 on the other, i figure it will only give it extra coverage :).
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[quote name='jerami1981']I was told to replace the head light fuses with 15 amp ones instead of the 7.5 they come with, sinc ei only had one 15 i used a 20 on the other, i figure it will only give it extra coverage :).[/QUOTE] FWIW - That's backwards. A 20 AMP fuse would take longer to blow than a 15 which in turn would allow more time for the wiring harness to melt. You'd be better off using a 10 AMP fuse instead.
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IF the instructions didn't say anything about changing fuses, it might work fine without changing them. Stick with the 7.5 AMP. The worst that will happen is that the fuses blow from too much current. (Then you'd know for sure that 7.5 was too low) If the lights try to draw, say 13 AMPs when on, a 10 AMP fuse will pop as well. If the lights aren't supposed to draw that much and typically use 8 AMPs instead, a 7.5 fuse might eventually blow but a 10 fuse shouldn't. I don't know the situation with these lights myself! If people are guessing about fuse amperage ratings, they are doing a dis-service to the Legacy collective. But having said that, a direct short should blow any fuse fairly quickly. The point is that different fuses are used for different items for a reason!
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Ok, just got back from the dealer. Anytie the check engine light comes on from what i gather, so will the cruise light. In my case it is due to a faulty purge valve which is now on order, but the car is safe to drive. He said its a rare case, but it does happen. Time spent at dealer, 2 1/2 hours.
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First, I have the studdering acceleration problem. Then I got rear ended. So I took my car to the dealer for the repair and told them to check my acceleration problem at the same time. They did many tests and talked with the guys at Subaru Canada, who said they've never seen this problem... They told my dealer to change the spark plugs. Result: same problem. They did other tests and Subaru Canada told them to change some kind of 'turbo waste gate solenoid' ( Excuse me , I really don't know what it is, nor the right name!), which is BO. So I took my car back. Next morning, my idle was V-E-R-Y bad, the car was litterally shaking! Then came ... this 'check engine with flashing cruise ' light. The OBD said : misfire cylinder 1, 2, 3, 4. They said they checked everything and saw nothing wrong. The lights never came back, but my iddle is the same. Still waiting for the guys at Subaru Canada.... Currently driving a base Outback, automatic of course. GRRRRRRRRRRRRR....
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  • 3 weeks later...
Well it has been a long time now sinc ei have added anything new. I took my car in thursday at the crack of dawn to get fixed..they callled me back around lunch and said they had ordered the wrong purge valve and were over nighting a new one, the correct one. So i got stuck with a crappy auto chevy malibu which happened to not have ABS so i found out this evening. Anyhow, the part never made it overnight so i have my car back and am waiting for the part to come in before taking it back :(. I will post again once i have my car back and give it a few days to act up to make sure it is really fixed.
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  • 4 weeks later...
I'm wondering if anyone has had problems with the Cruise light flashing on its own; that is to say no check engine light or other noticable problems. I just got the car 3 weeks ago, and this has happened twice now. At first I thought it may have been because I was below what the car thought was "acceptable cruise speed," but then I got up to 65 and tried again...no luck. Probably going to the dealer tonight to stir things up. I'll keep you posted on the results.
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[quote name='Trent Bates']I haven't tried it myself so I don't know how it works for sure. (For those that are not able to find the connectors, I found them behind the carpet where the carpet meets the kick panel under the glove box.) I have read that you have to push the trip button as the car is first turned to "ON". (Don't start it) Also, if the CEL is not lit, I will bet that it doesn't work since it doesn't know that there's anything to display. (But I could be wrong) I would guess that it's a current DTC display as opposed to a historic DTC display. I have a ODBII scanner in the form of a product called Autotap for my GTP. I am going to have to see if they work with Subaru connectors. It's always been specific to GM (and later, Ford) products.[/QUOTE] Are you talking about the plug on the passenger side? Cause that's not the right one. That one disables the alarm and other electronics.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I found that plug on the passenger side, unpluged, and went running to the dealer. it's a shipping thingy. When the car is put on a car carrier, they plug that in so the truck drivers don't lock the keys in them and set the alarm off or play with the cruise control and radio. That kinda stuff.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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well the new car gremlins got me :( This morning on the way to work I got a cel and a blinking cruise control . It happened as I braked pretty hard due to the idiot in front of me applying her make-up. Any ways im just venting, im going to call the dealer this morning wish me luck.
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I too was hit with the check engine and blinking cruise control light on my Legacy GT Limited two days ago. I've only got 700 miles. The dealer couldn't get me in until this morning but said as long as the check engine light wasn't blinking that it was ok to drive. It took them all day to figure out the deal but they said the sensor that determines the air/fuel mixture was malfuntioning (don't quote me, but that's the best I can remember. It's been a long day). The part needs to be ordered. They don't think it should be driven until repaired. The part will arrive Tuesday the earliest, but most likely on Wednesday. They offered me a loaner '05 Legacy (not a GT or GT Limited) without me asking. Overall, I was pleased with how they handled it. It blows not to have my car for several days, but hopefully this will take care of it.
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  • 2 weeks later...

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