LittleBlueGT Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Are there camber bolts for the front of our cars that allows more negative camber then the stock bolts? If so where might I buy them. Thanks. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyan Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75528&highlight=camber will they work for an lgt? SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheatleya Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 TiC has them. www.turninconcepts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rexster Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 whiteline sells some, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 Thanks guys. All these ones allow for MORE adjustment over OEM bolts? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 If you are driving hard, I wouldn't get them. I know of two folks that had Aftermarket Camber bolts fail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 If you are driving hard, I wouldn't get them. I know of two folks that had Aftermarket Camber bolts fail... You mean straight busted? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Some people call them "crash bolts", but whatever with that. When you drive hard, all sorts of $hit can happen. Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 I think the Whiteline P/N is KCA399 and it looks like the pic on TiC is exactly the same as Whitelines, although TiC lists them as "SPC" brand. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 You mean straight busted?Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 If you are driving hard, I wouldn't get them. I know of two folks that had Aftermarket Camber bolts fail... Track driving or normal/aggressive street driving? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Some people call them "crash bolts", but whatever with that. When you drive hard, all sorts of $hit can happen. I believe they are referred to that because they are used to correct alignment issues on cars involved in crashes. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Track driving or normal/aggressive street driving?1 was some fun mountain driving, the other was Auto-X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 ^ Interesting, I guess I will wait to see what range I can hit after the drop. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 If you are driving hard, I wouldn't get them. I know of two folks that had Aftermarket Camber bolts fail... agree, I got some on ebay and they're much smaller diameter bolts than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0ebert Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 We also sell those SPC camber bolts and I have yet to hear of one fail (going on 2 years). When we took a Honda Fit with a supercharged K20 to Buttonwillow we ran 2 cam bolts per strut for about -3 in the front pushing that car as hard as it will possibly go and the cam bolts worked fine. The only negative i've heard with them is that they can sometimes slip and you loose your camber settings. I wouldn't be concerned with running them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 1 was some fun mountain driving, the other was Auto-X Yups they straight up slipped on me. After all that time it took to get it just right. After completing one autox pass they slipped and were so outta whack. I tightened that sucker down extra tight too but it didn't matter. I have since switched to camber plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 I can't remeber if the stock bolts use the cam to force camber positive or more negative. If the cam part forces camber more negative, a simple shim would do the trick. if the cam forces things positive, a bit of machining could work... with some risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 If you are driving hard, I wouldn't get them. I know of two folks that had Aftermarket Camber bolts fail... Bump that... important info is missing. What brand failed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 when it comes to these bolts, there are two things you need to do. 1. DO NOT EVER use them to replace the stock front camber bolts. They go in the bottom hole. 2. Make sure they are set to the max negative position. This insures that they will not slip. Also get a good bolt that is actually cammed and doesn't just have a little tab stuck on the side. I've been using the same set of intrax bolts for over three years now on two cars. They've been driven on hard and over all types of terrain including rally-x. No problems. I can't remeber if the stock bolts use the cam to force camber positive or more negative. If the cam part forces camber more negative, a simple shim would do the trick. if the cam forces things positive, a bit of machining could work... with some risk. huh? the cam can point either way to do both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vet Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 ^ good info, didn't know that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 2, 2008 Author Share Posted October 2, 2008 Installed them today in the bottom holes. Was able to get -1.50 camber for both front wheels! Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 actually that's pretty close to what I would expect out of the stock adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 actually that's pretty close to what I would expect out of the stock adjustment.2nd, I run -1.5 up front with stock bolts, tokicos and Ion springs. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 2, 2008 Author Share Posted October 2, 2008 2nd, I run -1.5 up front with stock bolts, tokicos and Ion springs. Maybe I should supply more info: Lowered 1.25 inches on coil-overs. Stock bolts gave me -1.5. Then I added WL RC kit, and that changed things to a max of -1.0 (of course on compression now I get more neg camber, up to -2.8............played around on the alignment rack for 3 hours yesterday!) Then the addition of the other camber bolts in the bottom slot gave me the ability to run -1.5 static again. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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