Abandonhope16 Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 Is there a walkthrough for replacing brake pads....I searched but didnt come across anything for basic factory brake pad replacement. I'm sure its out there, I must have overlooked it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I'd ask a friend and watch the first time. Very basic? Jack up car Remove wheel Unbolt brake line from strut Loosen one caliper bolt Remove other bolt Rotate caliper to gain access to pads Remove pads Push the caliper piston back to allow new pad to be inserted, do it carefully Install in reverse order edit: that is for the fronts, rears involve a bit more because of the parking brake I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abandonhope16 Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 I've watched video walkthroughs for other cars, but I was hoping to find something Legacy specific so I know what I'm looking at before I start taking stuff apart. I figure its just a pair of rear pads and it shouldnt be that hard; seems ridiculous to pay $100 to have a shop do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 $100 might be worth it one time if you could sit there and watch. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 WCBJR hit it pretty well, I'd just add that you should slather a brake-quieting grease onto the pad backing plate (not on the brake pad friction surface) prior to re-installing. Front brakes are one of the easiest jobs you can do. I haven't done them on the LGT yet, but on most cars all you need is: Jack & Jack Stands Tire iron to remove lug nuts (and torque wrench to re-install them correctly) Socket and ratchet to remove one caliper bolt Brake pads and brake grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 http://www.hspn.tv/?videoid=44&catid=1 This video is for an STI w/ Brembos, but the process is pretty much identical. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MauiJim Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 http://www.hspn.tv/?videoid=44&catid=1 This video is for an STI w/ Brembos, but the process is pretty much identical. Actually, the process for Brembos is much, much different than with our stock brakes- we don't have the simple access by removing the retaining clip and simply pulling the pads out. It's really not similar at all... For our sliding calipers, you have to do what's outlined above- remove one of the sliding caliper bolts, rotate the caliper up and away from the pads, and replace the pads. If your rotors are worn/grooved, it'd be a good idea to remove the rotors and have them turned (or replace them if they have a lot of miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevlmx Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I find it surprising that this site, which is a valuable resource, does not have this information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wcbjr Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 I find it surprising that this site, which is a valuable resource, does not have this information. Post #2 has it up above. I forgot what I was supposed to remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupon Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 I just did it tonight for my front pads as a learn-as-i-go experience. First one took about 90 minutes, second one took about 30. Ill try to post pictures later 1: block wheels if necessary to keep the car from rolling, jack up car, support with jack stands. 2: Remove wheels (it may help to loosen the lug nuts while the car is on the ground) 3: Unscrew clip that holds brake line to the strut 4: For fronts: remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket (14mm head) 5: Remove caliper, do not allow it to hang from the brake line, set it on a tool box or something. Note where the clips are on the old brake pads and remove the pads. (at this point you can take the caliper bracket off by removing the bolts with the 17mm heads and remove the rotors, it might be a good idea to have them turned so the new pads are making good contact with the rotors. if the rotors are stuck on, evenly screw in an M8 bolt to each of the 2 holes in the caliper. You can find one of these bolts on each of your radiator mounts) 6: Reinstall the rotor and caliper bracket if they have been removed. Torque the 17mm bracket bolts to 51-65 lb-ft. 7: Install new pads in reverse order of removal. I've heard to add some kind of lubricant but im not sure where to put it. Use a small screw driver if necessary to get some of the retainers/clips out of the way, and make sure the new pads fit flush against the rotor. 8: I didnt have a clamp, or any luck at all trying to push the pistons back into the caliper, so i had to unscrew the bleeder bolt (attach a hose first), and use an old brake pad to push them back in all the way. Tighten the bleeder when this is done. 9: Slide the caliper over the pads (making sure they are still flush against the rotor). Reinstall 14mm bolts, torque to 32-42 lb-ft. One of these bolts went bad on me and stretched past it's yield point, so be careful if it keeps turning and doesn't tighten like it should. 10: You'll need a friend to help you bleed the brakes. 11: Bolt wheels on, torque lug nuts to 89 lb-ft. Lower car off stands. 12: Bed in brake pads using whatever method you feel is right for you. Sorry for no pics, steps only for front brakes/shitty directions. I'm tired. I'll try to fix it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeoW71 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 You can use the old brake pad and a thick screw driver for leverage to push the piston back in. 89lb-ft for lug nuts is rather high. It is supposed to be ~65lb-ft. I've always used 70lb-ft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Umass94 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 I removed my pads without noticing where the clips on the pads are facing. How important is the clip orientation? can someone with a 2006 OBXT with stock brakes take a look and let me know which way the clips are facing? Thanks. Here's proof: Just 1 minute after buying my OBXT, I had 7 phone calls from insanely hot women, and got 7 dates out of it. Coincidence? I think not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupon Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 89lb-ft for lug nuts is rather high. It is supposed to be ~65lb-ft. I've always used 70lb-ft Legacys up to '04 (and pretty much all other subarus) took around 60-72lb-ft, newer ones have a higher torque value. This is going by a chart that a lot of shops have hanging on their wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 There's no reason to pull the entire caliper (unless you want to inspect the rotors closely). Just remove the lower bolt and it pivots up on the upper bolt. However, I was pulling the lower bolt on my rears the other day - just to inspect the pads more closely since they seemed close to replacement time - and something weird happening. The bolt would not come loose, and I realized it was stuck to the sliding pin behind it, and I had to grab that with a skinny wrench (fortunately it had a hex surface machined on it). I've done quite a few pad changes on various Sube's and never run into this problem. Made me wonder what holds that pin from rotating and what was wrong with mine ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5blueGT Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 I usually leave the pad on the piston side in place and use a C-Clamp to push the piston back in works pretty well. (used this on many other vehicles, but have not had to do the brakes on the legacy, YET). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/project-mu-front-brake-pad-installation-139141.html?t=139141 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/project-mu-front-brake-pad-installation-139141.html?t=139141 So, any thoughts about why the 14mm bolt (on my rear ones) was stuck, and when I rotated it with force it made the whole pin spin and I had to grab the pin with another wrench to get it loose ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 So, any thoughts about why the 14mm bolt (on my rear ones) was stuck, and when I rotated it with force it made the whole pin spin and I had to grab the pin with another wrench to get it loose ? Really, no thoughts on this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzypal Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I found this video helpful. It's clear in the video how to install front brakes and rotors on a 2010-2014 Outback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Really, no thoughts on this ? Rust, but may be by now 4 years later you've figured that out. The brakes on these cars are pretty simple and straight forward. I lube the slider pins and paint my calipers yearly. use anti-seize compound on all the bolt and nut threads, yes even the lug nuts. PB Blaster works great to help remove rust when breaking the bolts free. If you pull the slide pin and it won't go back in, just remove the rubber collar thing at the end, you don't need it. removed mine years ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.