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Best Intake for an everyday driver


flipsubie06

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hey subie heads

 

i was just thinking which intake would be best for mainly a daily driver but also can get a lil nutty too. now ive heard different stories around such as spt intakes arent very good bcuz it has an aluminum pipe that catches the engine heat pretty bad and cobb intakes are pretty good.

 

so i just wanted to know wut you guys were thinking on the subject

 

...btw im pretty new to this forum so be gentle with replies ;p

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STOCK STOCK STOCK!!!!! Use the $200-300 and put that towards a Cobb AccessPort(unless you want to try Opensource tuning and logging). I have the K&N Typhoon and it sounds GREAT!!! The drawback is that without a tune, it's a crapshoot on whether or not the engine is running dangerously lean. Don't make the same mistake as me.
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On a stage 2 car the intake does help quite a bit, but at stock boost levels, the stock airbox is fine. In particular spool-up was noticeably quicker after I switched to a cold air intake on my Stage 2.5 setup

 

I tend to agree despite no one else believing so. I hit higher maf readings with both the AEM and Typhoon intakes than I do with the stock. In all 3 cases, the intakes were very carefully scaled with a wb02. It's not considerably more, but it was a consistent 10-12maf g/s around 4.4 - 4.44 volts or so.

 

This could mostly be the filter though and not so much the intake. With a stock intake and a K&N panel filter, I hit closer to the same numbers I was hitting with the AEM and Typhoon, though not quite as high.

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The stock intake becomes a restriction with the VF-40/46 at around 18.5 psi on TMIC or just about everywhere when using a FMIC. There are instances where it can help.

 

Properly tuned there are small gains to be had and if pushing the ever loving crap out of a stock turbo they can net better gains. But for MOST, meaning 95%, OEM is perfect until stage3, or you have a WB and know how to use it.

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For those of you with the stock airbox and silencer removed, how loud is it? I have a K&N typhoon and I'm considering taking it off when I get my AP until I get my DP and catback this Christmas, but I'm afraid I'll miss the sound. I know I know, it's cheesy, but I love the sound. Will I be disappointed?
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yep, just took off my typhoon and it is super quiet. put the stock airbox back on without the silencer and i cant hear a thing. i do miss the sound, but i figure since my plans of getting a tune kinda fell through for now, i would take the typhoon off and not risk the engine.
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It's better than off in the summer. I've logged almost 40k miles with 7 various intake combinations including 3 full aftermarket setups and the stock box with paper filter/KN panel filter and both panel filters with and without the resonator. In all cases with the resonator off, IAT went up slightly. The stock setup with the resonator in place and any filter delivers the lowest IAT while cruising. With the resonator off is about the same as what I was seeing with the AEM intake. The Typhoon and Cobb with box are both very similar and slightly warmer than the AEM and stock without resonator.

 

Edit:

 

Note on maf scalings; All these setups needed their own scaling tweaks and even a panel filter shouldn't be used on a tuned car. The stock fuel settings for OL are plenty rich enough to account for any of these intakes, but once the WOT region is leaned out in a tune, there is no longer a margin of safety. My car hits about 4.4v and I will use that area as an example as this range has been dialed in with each setup using a wb02.

 

On the oem software, 4.4v = about 221 g/s.

With a K&N panel filter and stock resonator 4.4v = 234 g/s

With a K&N panel and no resonator 4.4v = 237 g/s

With K&N Typhoon intake 4.4v = 242 g/s

With Cobb intake & Airbox 4.4v = 248 g/s

With AEM intake 4.4v =~240 (this was my first intake and I wasn't as clear about the maf scaling process. This may not be as dialed in as the rest.)

 

All of these are around a 7-9% change at 4.4v from OEM. If you're off by 7% on targets that are already tuned near 11.0:0 afr you'll be hitting closer to 11.8:1 which is too lean IMO and why scaling is always required for any change including a panel filter.

 

One more edit:

 

For the people thinking 7-9% is well within the ecus tolerance for adjustment, that is only true in closed loop. The ecu isn't making adjustments at 4.4v, it's using your final D af learning range and applying that to everything above the value of D. So the above example leaning out to 11.88 is only true if your D range is 0. If your D range is negative it will lean it out even further and this is where people end up blowing their tuned cars more often than not imo.

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From my experience with other cars, I thought it was total BS that a panel filter could have negative effects. So I decided to do it anyway and log. In learning view, I went from my A/F learning being between 1 and 5 in all ranges, to 12 in the low/mid and 10 in +40. I also started getting occasional learned knocks in high revs in mid and high load. Knock adjustment would get to -2.8 at peak boost. I went back to the stock filter because I'd be irresponsible right now to void the warranty by messing with my ECU(80k miles and I just bought it). I have more power with the stock filter since it's not pulling any timing.

 

I also did the same thing with the AFE panel filter and silencer removed. My IAT's were at 150+! It was also knocking pretty bad and I felt a major loss of power. I put it back on very quickly! I'd suggest that anyone who wants to remove it seal it with a PVC end or something.

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