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Ask the Tuner Thread!


BrenTuning

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Simple topic here.....

 

Have a question about recommend parts, or setups that tune well?

 

Have a question about mod paths that equal your goals or xxx whp?

 

Have a question about reliability or maintenance for best possible tuning numbers?

 

Just ask them here. This applies to anyone.

 

Disclaimer: We do not discuss self tuning help methods. :)

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what do I do if I find out my tuner is stealing maps out of cars that other shops tuned and putting them in my car and then charging me full price for it?

 

If it is true, you should be able to prove it with copies of both roms of said tuner. You will find that alot of tuners rapidly losing market share and their customers start rumors that others steal their maps but can't prove it or back it up as it's not true. ;)

 

We've done plenty of reads of cars that were "dyno tuned" for $500 that had an OSECUROMS / XPT free rom on it with 99% of the original data contained.

 

Good luck with finding out the culprit :)

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Why is it that my tune drifts? I work for a while, get everything dialed in to where logs and Learning Views are clean for several weeks, and then ignore the tune for a while. I pull a Learning View a few months later, and IAM has dropped and learned AFR is out greater than 5%. This has happened several times. It is like I need to get a new tune every six months.
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EL or UEL header, and why? And will I need to retune after this bolt-on?

 

A proper EL header will make great mid to top end and allow far more aggressive ignition settings. Placing both on untuned with make similar power. A good tuner can do alot more with a big tube EL header.

 

We recommend the Invidia Race header big tube 1.5 scroll for EL. And Tomei for UEL. A retune is key for getting the most out of this modification.

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For a stage 2 tune, does an aftermarket TMIC make a big enough difference to justify the $600 price? Assume cat less up pipe, high flow catted down pipe, and AVO mufflers. Thanks.
Here's proof: Just 1 minute after buying my OBXT, I had 7 phone calls from insanely hot women, and got 7 dates out of it. Coincidence? I think not.
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For a stage 2 tune, does an aftermarket TMIC make a big enough difference to justify the $600 price? Assume cat less up pipe, high flow catted down pipe, and AVO mufflers. Thanks.

 

With a proper retune, absolutely. A cheap Perrin unit does the job.

 

For best results when tuning a good FMIC does an even better job.

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So the owners manual says that 91 octane or better is required for the LGTs from the factory. My understanding is that it was okay to put 87 in occassionally in a pinch assuming the ecu will just pull some timing (lower IAM?).

 

Is this still true with an aftermarket tune or is it now less safe to use a lower octane rating? Dependent on the tune or tuner? Totally safe in all cases for all tuners? How about your tunes specifically?

 

For example, let's say I was stage 2 and I put 93 in when I brought my car in to be BrenTuned. Then I get stuck out in the backwoods of Maine and all the local guy has is 87. Safe? Safe if I don't push it? Safe all day long and I just wont make my normal 93 power? Or totally unsafe and I should call AAA to bring me 93 from civilization?

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We don't recommend any sort of 87 octane in these cars at all. Not even the factory tune. We give IAM alot of range but the knock correction range will be severe even in the cruise range (off boost). Most off path gas stations around here have at least 91.

 

I would limp it as much as possible to the nearest 93 station.

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Can any benefit be achieved from tuning a stock NA Subaru 2.5 motor?

And I don't necessarily mean power gains; how about better fuel mileage?

Or is it a complete waste of time and money?

 

We've mapped a bunch of them. On premium fuel they make some power, on 87 they are already pulling timing. We can make the drive-ability 100 times better however. Anyone who has gotten it done was very happy with it.

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Can I run a invidia dp with adapter to oem cbe, with a stage one Cobb AP v1 ots.?

Basically, run at 15 psi max

 

Those maps are so ancient I would not.

 

The DP will throw any stage 1 map off. I'd suggest a custom tune if you are outside of the AP limits.

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I noticed that most people like to uncork the turbo and let it make a massive peak torque figure. Would there be any benefit from limiting this 'controlled overboost' and having a more linear torque curve?

 

With a big displacement small turbo car this is really the only way they make midrange. It is purely up to the customers preference when we map it. Without midrange boost and a flat torque curve most 2.5Ls would make near 2.0L torque.

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I have a Garrett 3076 BB. Sitting around I would like to install it but I am not looking for big hp numbers. It's an OEM fit. I know I will need FM intercooler and fuel system upgrades. Like wise I got a deal on it an used it on my Sentra turbo project and the turbo is healthy. Everyone I have contacted said its a waste of time but if its BB wouldn't the turbo be much more responsive. It's a 60 trim internal wasted.
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Are there any high flowing (1000+cc) sidefeed fuel injectors on the market that you've had experience with that you would recommend?

 

DW1000s are OK. We've done a few sets, most seem to flow slightly better then a 850. You can always run an aftermarket FPR with a higher base pressure.

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