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Accessport V1 vs. V2 vs. opensource?


Fijiphil

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Hey all,

 

Im still a noob with Subarus, and have been researching here over the past few weeks, but still am not clear on a few things.

 

So, whats the difference between the AP V1 and V2? I see they look different, but I havent been able to find anything that talks about better features of the V2.

 

I have an 05 Legacy gt 5mt, and want to keep it basically stock and daily driver friendly. As of now, its bone stock. The only thing Ive done is purchased a Cobb turbo back exhaust, but have not installed it yet. Im planning on buying an up pipe to put on at the same time. Other than that, I may get an intake, assuming I can safely run it without a custom dyno tune.

 

Ive read a lot about opensourece tuning, and it seems really interesting! It seems to be more affordable than an accessport. Id just be worried about getting a tune that isnt safe in the long run. Are there any dyno graphs comparing a mildly modded car with an opensorce tune versus an AP?

 

I realize comparing the power output from different opensource tuners may be like comparing apples to oranges, given differences in dynos used, weather conditions etc.

 

Sorry if this is a ramble, these are just questions I still have after searching around. I guess bottom line, Id love to save any money I can on this, but I am much more interested in doing it right and not running a dangerous tune that is too lean or timing too advanced etc.

 

Any help is appreciated! :) Thanks!

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well I have the AP V2 and the most important thing is that the MAPs get updated when bugs are reported. I could be wrong but i do not think cobb updats for V1 anymore.

 

In order to run a turbo back you need a stage 2 map.

2006 Legacy GT 5EAT Perrin UP, SPT CAI, OBXR CBE, Catless DP, Perrin TMIC, Stage 2 AP tune

Soon after BNR 16G, Infamous Tune

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I agree that if you run the turbo back system you need at least a stage II map. The custom tune would likely be more safe but a base stage II map would at least get you to the tuner! I'd mod for catless for at least the up-pipe too. An AP V1 can be traded in for the V2 and Cobb is great about keeping the software bugs swatted! Maps can easily changed via the AP and a few smallish things changed to suit. Bigger changes take the Race or Pro software to change but you still only need the AP to make the changes to the car, not a full computer carried out to the car. The Pro software is quite expensive but the Race will work for most of us very well. Intake will not help as much as exhaust in preformance so money is much better spent on the exhaust side and a stronger clutch to get your new power to the asphalt! The AP is easier to use than the open source and open source won't run on an open source operating system so it was much more expesive for me to even start plus my time to learn is limited so I went AP V2. Stage I will make a BIG difference in the feel of the car! You'll be well pleased although you still may need a clutch!
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AP V1 is completely unsupported and if you have one, you should call COBB and trade it in for a V2.

 

Os is cheaper is less capable, but it does work. If you are a computer geek and a car geek, this is for you.

 

 

You should probably just stick to a COBB AP V2 though.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Thanks for the replies. Im thinking im going to be on the hunt for a gently used AP :)

 

Pastor JW did you toast your stock clutch on stage 2? The clutch was replaced last year, though Im assuming it was a factory replacement. Im hoping I can get at least 20 or 30,000 miles out of it before having to revisit it! haha.

 

Ive read the intake really wont add a ton. Call me a ricer, but I really like hearing the turbo spool up and the by pass valve. I have a buddy who put a cobb short ram intake on his STI and then the turbo was much more audible, as well as the by pass valve. Im assuming id have similar results with my legacy :)

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Im running a vf52 on my stock clutch 275whp/310wtq holds fine, it all depends on how you drive tho.

 

 

Ok good deal. Yeah I dont see a lot of hard launches or anything, it will just be my daily driver to school and work for the next year and a half at least. If Im able to land a big boy job when I graduate, I might start getting a little crazier with it :) But I just want to be able to drive it and enjoy it.

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Thanks for the replies. Im thinking im going to be on the hunt for a gently used AP :)

 

Pastor JW did you toast your stock clutch on stage 2? The clutch was replaced last year, though Im assuming it was a factory replacement. Im hoping I can get at least 20 or 30,000 miles out of it before having to revisit it! haha.

 

:)

 

No, but even AP stage I will net you slippage and yes, you WILL notice. So IF you are going to stage II you should figure in a stronger clutch and I'd replace it at the same time you do your down-pipe cause you are harnessing several more ponies and that will take the stock clutch out in a hurry if you drive anywhere close to how I do. ...and really now, ...who doesn't if they drive a GT?!! ;)

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My stock clutch is slipping on a stage 2 tune, i need a new tune as well with the new mods but i'm not gonna waste my tuners time with a clutch that is slightly slipping. And its a fairly brand new clutch. FX300 is the route i will be taking when the time comes in spring.
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My stock clutch is slipping on a stage 2 tune, i need a new tune as well with the new mods but i'm not gonna waste my tuners time with a clutch that is slightly slipping. And its a fairly brand new clutch. FX300 is the route i will be taking when the time comes in spring.

 

Yes, that is kinda my take on that too. If I'm going to take the trouble to make mine stage II I want it to ACT like its stage II! I also don't want it to let me down out in the boonies someplace.

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Well.. long story short, Ill be driving the car across country shortly after the stage two conversion. I wasnt planning on replacing the clutch as well. Ill have to put a little thought to this. But just to be clear, this car will see zero hard launches of any kind, and no crazy slipping the clutch while shifting or anything. I dont beat the crap out of my Civic, and dont feel the need to start with my Legacy. This thing should be plenty fun without driving it like I stole it lol.

 

I guess Im just gonna hope for the best and hope it dosent back fire.. lol

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My stock clutch is slipping on a stage 2 tune, i need a new tune as well with the new mods but i'm not gonna waste my tuners time with a clutch that is slightly slipping. And its a fairly brand new clutch. FX300 is the route i will be taking when the time comes in spring.

 

 

What other mods do you have besides an exhaust and AP? From your sig im assuming you have a VF52 turbo.

 

The only mods will be the exhaust and the AP. Id like to do an open panel air filter.. but thats about it unless I break/need to replace somthing. Then I would consider upgrading (turbo, IC, etc)

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Well.. long story short, Ill be driving the car across country shortly after the stage two conversion. I wasnt planning on replacing the clutch as well. Ill have to put a little thought to this. But just to be clear, this car will see zero hard launches of any kind, and no crazy slipping the clutch while shifting or anything. I dont beat the crap out of my Civic, and dont feel the need to start with my Legacy. This thing should be plenty fun without driving it like I stole it lol.

 

I guess Im just gonna hope for the best and hope it dosent back fire.. lol

 

The clutch will slip more as you roll on the throttle in gear and the troque numbers climb well above what the stock POS was designed for.

 

I don't know how anybody can keep away from the HP when you paid to have it.

 

If you don't use it (stage 2 power), you may as well stay at stage 1.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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My current setup is VF52, Walbro 255, Perrin catless up and dp, gs ebcs but im waiting on getting it dyno tuned its currently on my tune map so with a new clutch i should be right around 300whp and 320tq i figure. Before it was like 260-280 whp (airboy graph said 280whp and 300tq but i think that was a little high). I dont NEED a clutch if i drive normal im fine. Like MAX said why increase power if you dont drive it like you stole it every once in a while?
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My current setup is VF52, Walbro 255, Perrin catless up and dp, gs ebcs but im waiting on getting it dyno tuned its currently on my tune map so with a new clutch i should be right around 300whp and 320tq i figure. Before it was like 260-280 whp (airboy graph said 280whp and 300tq but i think that was a little high). I dont NEED a clutch if i drive normal im fine. Like MAX said why increase power if you dont drive it like you stole it every once in a while?

 

I def understand that it can be tempting to give your car a good flogging every now and again (or every day :lol:) But Ill just be happy to have something boosted again. Sure ill enjoy the power, but I dont see the need to launch it or redline it really. Ive already bought an exhaust, and an accessport is currently on its way to me. The only other thing I really believe Ill need to buy will be an uppipe. I have no plans at all to upgrade my turbo. If the stocker were to give up the ghost, id consider it. But that would really depend on finances. Im from Virginia, but am a student in school in Washington state. So I dont really have access to my tools, or a place to work on it (I rent a room from a family). If I were back home, I very well may consider getting more radical with it. But I just want to give the car a nice rumble, and enjoy the power to be had with a better flowing exhaust set up.

 

I already have a moneypit/ toy to tinker with (88 Conquest TSi). I cant afford another black hole to throw cash into lol!

 

The clutch will slip more as you roll on the throttle in gear and the troque numbers climb well above what the stock POS was designed for.

 

I don't know how anybody can keep away from the HP when you paid to have it.

 

If you don't use it (stage 2 power), you may as well stay at stage 1.

 

If I hadnt already bought the exhaust, I may not bother with it. But, its just sitting in the garage.. begging to go on.. lol. From what Ive read here, there have been people who had a stock clutch hold up fine on stage two power. However, I get the feeling these "success stories" are probably from people who dont drive their car really hard on a daily basis. Im gonna see if I can follow in their footsteps and get maybe 20-30k more miles out of my clutch (has probably 10-15k on it currently)

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