190k up on jacks again valve cover leak

After installing the new VF40, and doing a few pulls, Code P0244 was coming up. After searching very hard, the vacuum line going from the wastegate back to the front of the manifold was disconnected underneath. would have never found it with out the map from LegacyGT.com.

 

The oil smoke was a minute leak from the VC gasket on the passenger side leaking onto the UPPIPE. I dug around, and just couldn't find oil anywhere else. Very Very Annoying. It's the GF's DD during the winter, and it is November. She is in Senior Management and people notice the smoke coming out. She finally complained.

 

Back up on the jacks:

 

 

Removed a bunch of crap and jacked up the motor;

 

 

Here is a pic of the camshaft and the half moons;

 

 

What do you think of these plugs? who knows the mileage..

 

 

$27 for the gasket set from Subaru parts desk. What is the GREY FUJI Stuff and where can I get some?

 

Plugs look fine to me, but I'd still probably replace them while you have them out. I'm reading in the FSM that subaru says to use Three Bond 1215 liquid gasket. Subaru also says that you can use "3M ultrapro high temp silicone gasket 08672" instead of three bond 1215, which is available from amazon. I'm sure there's other liquid gaskets you could use, but I'm just going off what Subaru says.

 

3m stuff from amazon

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/3M-08672-Ultrapro-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000XBFE7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384301254&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+08672#productDetails]Amazon.com: 3M 08672 Ultrapro Black High Temp Silicone Gasket Tube - 3 oz.: Automotive[/ame]

 

 

**Ok now Im thoroughly confused. After reading further down to the last page of the subaru fluids update PDF, it says "THREE BOND 1280B" for the rocker cover, either way it still says the 3M liquid gasket is an acceptable substitute. Maybe the three bond 1280B replaced the 1215 stuff since I think the PDF info is newer than the FSM info.

2804.2008.Subaru.fluids.update.pdf

Interesting. Looks like the 3M Ultra Pro is a valued alternative for multiple purposes. The subaru parts guy was kind enough to show me a tube of the grey stuff he said it was too expensive. I don't want to take the cover off again.. Way too much time.

The valve cover gaskets on the 2006 legacy gt are really quite the pain. Not at all like my old 327 rs with no pwr steering. No room, and at 190k every rubber piece I touched disintegrated. Even the electric tape flaked off. I'm willing to bet I could have reused the original gaskets, as long as I used enough of the grey stuff. In my case I went with the permatex grey hi temp.

Any good high temp gasket sealer from any auto parts store will work, just ask the guy at the counter.

 

If your not happy with the advice from one guy go to the next store.

permatex ultra grey is a suitable alternative, and it's available at most parts stores.

 

i used it for valve covers (in the areas called for), even for the case halves and it's holding up fine.

Hey been a few weeks and a couple hundred miles. No smoke no leaks. I went with the Valvoline 5-30 syn. The oil on the stick is clear and shiny. The running gear is good for now, next is a full rebuild of the braking system. Rotors calipers lines and hard lines?

Hey been a few weeks and a couple hundred miles. No smoke no leaks. I went with the Valvoline 5-30 syn. The oil on the stick is clear and shiny. The running gear is good for now, next is a full rebuild of the braking system. Rotors calipers lines and hard lines?

 

You're going to replace all of the hard lines too?

She was driving home from work last night and the top rad hose blew off. Steam and crap everywhere. We're lucky we live in such a nice area. I suspected coolant intrusion in the oil some time ago. The oil looked good but it was pasty. after the last change, it was slick and shiny. The oil is pasty and air bubbles in the reservoir tank. It is possible that air is in the system but I'm gearing up for headgaskets. Too many problems in such a short period. I would like to see her in a Jeep Cherokee.. Or infinity x35. Anyway, I love to save money, but the 190k LGT has gone to the dark side.

Why didn't you tell us the oil looked pasty before this all started.

 

You have a head gasket leaking, coolant in the oil is not a good thing as it will eat the bearings. How long has this been going on ?

 

The engine has to come out and the heads removed, checked for flatness, may be skim cut to make sure there's a flat surface. While they are off, they should be rebuilt.

 

Once you've gone that far, might as well make sure the bearings are replaced and the rings after the cylinders are honed.

 

I new ej257 short block is about $1600 they say. Plus gasket set for your year car, about $250. The gasket has everything needed to rebuild the heads, less valves.

That oil has been very slightly pasty since acquisition, which I believe was sept 2012, and about 10k miles ago. I think it was less than 6k on Ebay. My last experience with Bad HGs was my dad's 97 Eldo northstar. It required time serts due to the studs and the frame had to be dropped from the unibody to get the motor out. I really liked that caddy model run until then. I sold my cherry picker and motor stand thinking I would never do it again.. for Christ's sake, I would hate to repurchase these items! Thanks for the help. Thinking thinking thinking...

This car is about as easy as a VW bug to work on. Pull the motor and and it's all right there. Harbor freight has a good engine stand for a fair price, don't know about the cherry picker though.

Funny how we can drive anything we want, but for some reason, this LGT has caught us. She doesn't want another car and is happy with Miata. (Maybe not after a storm or two). I shopped for a motor a little this morning. There is a great shop that will R&R this motor for $3200. and that is all machining, honing, new everything; bearings, cams, valves, pistons, water pump, timing belt.. with a 3 yr guarantee. I pull and install. they pick it up deliver to the garage door. I have used them with great success. Then there are the used ones without any of the accessories; $3500,96k. $2350, mi? Ebay. The $2350. is for an '07 '08, it happens to be local. Mine is an '06. it will fit, right?

Max finally read your build link. It's a long one. Hope it's still running! I think the fancy pistons are a waste on a dd, and actually may not last as long anyway. I believe $319 for hoses is about right. I cracked a boss on the passenger side head at the lower left turbo bolt, the shop said no problem. Based on your experience it looks like about 4k min to fix. I really like the way Subaru shipped the ej257! In any respect, I'll update the garage with a new picker and stand this weekend.

We have 4 other cars for the 2 of us. So no hurry. I may pull it apart and follow your steps instead. The shop will be closed during the holidays and I will be off for the week.

Funny how we can drive anything we want, but for some reason, this LGT has caught us. She doesn't want another car and is happy with Miata. (Maybe not after a storm or two). I shopped for a motor a little this morning. There is a great shop that will R&R this motor for $3200. and that is all machining, honing, new everything; bearings, cams, valves, pistons, water pump, timing belt.. with a 3 yr guarantee. I pull and install. they pick it up deliver to the garage door. I have used them with great success. Then there are the used ones without any of the accessories; $3500,96k. $2350, mi? Ebay. The $2350. is for an '07 '08, it happens to be local. Mine is an '06. it will fit, right?

 

Care to share the shop name? That's a good price, especially with a 3 year warranty. As far as the 07-08 motor, it will fit but the heads are D25s which will require block off plates and it *may* need a retune. Definitely doable.

Promarengine in Patterson, NJ. They are great.

Here's what the oil looks like. Inconclusive I need to do some testing before I get rolling. What is recommended?

The broken top radiator neck failed when the car broke down. It's such a wierd thing to happen. Will have to replace it, just to do coolant system pressure testing looking for HG leaks. Wish I had another radiator laying around.

Max finally read your build link. It's a long one. Hope it's still running! I think the fancy pistons are a waste on a dd, and actually may not last as long anyway. I believe $319 for hoses is about right. I cracked a boss on the passenger side head at the lower left turbo bolt, the shop said no problem. Based on your experience it looks like about 4k min to fix. I really like the way Subaru shipped the ej257! In any respect, I'll update the garage with a new picker and stand this weekend.

We have 4 other cars for the 2 of us. So no hurry. I may pull it apart and follow your steps instead. The shop will be closed during the holidays and I will be off for the week.

 

 

Just checking back in.

Yes my wagon runs great. Almost 30,000 miles on it. It goes to VT every weekend now. After reading a few of the other rebuild threads where some people try and do things themselfs, even tho I have must of the tools, I glad I went the way I did.

 

Leave the harder things to the experts.

here's the deal in pictures. I'm still wishing and hoping my oil isn't contaminated by coolant, and I have not sourced a radiator as of yet so I can test. I'm thinking a bad thermostat could have caused enough pressure for the radiator neck to fail. Looks like some newer belt replacements, like the previous owner did some maintenance.

If your oil is tan color then you have moisture in it. How far is your DD ? If you drive short distances and never drive on the highway for a long time, you could have condensation in the oil. The oil needs to get hot to boil the water out of it.

 

But I think you know that. You sound like you have a clue.

whoa whoa whoa!!!

 

a disconnected vacuum line will introduce water into the oil just as easily as a blown head gasket it will just take longer.

 

You know the smoking is being caused by leaking valve covers so get them fixed and save her and Subaru the embarrassment.

 

First job is to fix the vacuum leak(s) and change the oil and filter and see if the oil is still cloudy after about 1k of driving

 

smell the exhaust... does it smell like coolant? if it does you have your answer. If not then the only other place the coolant will go is into the oil. If the oil is clean after 1k of driving and the car is not eating coolant, and smelling like coolant farts, then the vacuum line was the problem.

 

I have had many times where the underside of my oil fill cap was coated with a foamy tan film which was caused by condensation, a bad PCV valve, or a vacuum leak.

also; The yellow powdery residue around the lower coolant line leads me to believe the coolant was not replaced when needed and had gone acidic, weakening the plastic upper hose inlet and aiding it's failure.

fyi, Blackontan, I fixed the oil leak in the above posts, so the LGT didn't smoke for a couple of weeks. That valve cover gasket was a pain in the az.

 

I'm pretty certain I don't have a vacuum leak, because the idle is around 7-800 and the turbo works like it should.

 

That yellow powdery stuff on the inlet, to me looks like it is some kind of sealer or agent used on the top radiator hose. There is absolutely no build up at all > inside the radiator, or inside the thermostat housing.

 

I am working slowly, but today I want to pull the thermostat and test it. However, it appears that the intake has to be removed to get at it. Am I right?

Correct, once you pull off that piece that has the residue on it the thermostat is right behind it. (thats with me assuming the piece with the residuce is on the bottom right of the engine, I can't really tell which one it is from the pic). If you look at the bottom driver side of the engine you will see what i'm talking about, pics attached for further clarificaiton.