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18K miles and my brakes suck!!


twisted

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so i have crappy brake pedal feel and plenty of shudder on the steering wheel when braking (implying rotor warpage perhaps??)

 

Is this something the stealer will fix under warranty?

ANyone else have similar issue?

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search is your friend.

 

the shudder is probably brake deposits forming on the rotors. rotors may be warped, as well, if condition isn't addressed quickly. squishy pedal may be air in the system or simply just the way LGT brakes feel.

 

take it to the stealership, but know that if they replace the pads with OEM, you'll probably be back here with the same complaint. :spin:

 

hawk hps FTW

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dealership will resurface your rotors under warranty if under 36K (u have 18k so u'r good to go) and rotors are thicker than 22mm for the F.

pad have to be < 1MM to be replaced under warranty.

subaru uses recycled metal to make their rotors, they suk.

i have 17k on my wagon and i have resurfaced my F rotors twice and my R rotors once already.

ordered zero sports pads and stoptech rotors last week

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wow thts messed up.

so to own a subaru means:

- buy new car for approximately 27-28K

- buy additional performance enhancing equipment (stg 1 or 2) OPTIONAL

- buy seperate accessories/stereo for MP3s to play cuz factory stereo cant play mp3s

-buy new tires cuz factory tires suck($400)

-buy new brakes all around cuz factory brakes suck($1500)

 

 

....WTF...when i hv a new(er) car i should not be spending money on shit that should work proper on a 25K+ vehicle from the factory.

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you don't need new rotors, just pads. our rotors are fine. do a search and you will learn.

 

get new rotors and pads from the stealership, immediately swap out the pads with something good, like hawks, and sell the stock pads to someone who doesn't know how bad they are.

 

wow thts messed up.

so to own a subaru means:

- buy new car for approximately 27-28K

- buy additional performance enhancing equipment (stg 1 or 2) OPTIONAL

- buy seperate accessories/stereo for MP3s to play cuz factory stereo cant play mp3s

-buy new tires cuz factory tires suck($400)

-buy new brakes all around cuz factory brakes suck($1500)

 

 

....WTF...when i hv a new(er) car i should not be spending money on shit that should work proper on a 25K+ vehicle from the factory.

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What factory vehicle for 25K will beat a STOCK LGT around a track? I can think of possibly two-three...

 

One is another Subaru...

 

thats not a good enough a reason for them to use crappy parts (at least tires and brakes) on which our lives can depend .

 

I'm not even counting the fact that the paint is thin and crappy and so is the interior. I'm only counting what matters on the road.

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+1. the brake pads didn't start chunking for me until i hit higher speeds. if you keep it under 75, you'll be just fine ;)

Ditto, my breaks get wobbly feeling when I go over 80, but only then, which is extremely rare.

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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buy new brakes all around cuz factory brakes suck($1500)

 

Legacies have the 2nd biggest braking system that Subaru offers, second only to the WRX STi Brembos. How much bigger do you want?

 

The braking system is fine, it's the pads that suck. New front Hawk HPS pads will go for ~$80. There is no reason to spend $1,500 on brake parts.

 

If your trying to get a valid point across, and come off as at least slightly educated, get your numbers right.

enough zip ties and duct tape will fix anything.
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Just went in for 22,500 service and I complained about the brakes shutter and chronic squeak from the FR wheel. They said I needed new bearings for the squeak and they're going to turn my rotor. This sucks! I have to go back in a week. I'm going to try and tackle the acceleration hesitation issue next, and then the annoying dash rattle.

 

Should I go ahead and order new pads right now? Will Subaru give me shiat for this?

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Have those of you with bad pedal feel bled your brakes and/or completely replaced the fluid? I did at one year (15K) and again last weekend (30K), with ATE Super Blue and Typ200 (yellow of same).

 

At 15K quite a bit of crud and small bubbles came out, and I noticed an improvement in pedal feel. At 30K no crud but maybe a few small bubbles came out, but again an improvement in pedal feel, but not as much as the first time.

 

I'm probably down to about 3-4mm on all pads at 30K and have to figure out what I want next (quiet and less dusty than stock, with at least as much friction as stock -- Hawk Ceramic or HPS?).

 

If I pick up some minor squeal with light application of brakes, say in traffic in the city, I generally go out on a quiet country road and rebed the brake pads. That cleans up the crud on the rotor and reapplies pad material evenly on the rotors. I also generally try to get at least one hard stop in on most drives to "clean" things off. It generally works for me. This was particularly important on my previous VW as otherwise the rear rotors really seemed to suffer from lack of "use."

 

--Lee

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