Joebrauk Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 So, I picked up an 09 OBXT 5MT that needs some work... Probably not the wisest decision. I had it compression tested and inspected with a boroscope and it turns out that the head on the passenger side is toast. It looks like the fueling system caused the engine to run lean, the car died as soon as the fuel pump fuse was pulled. The valves aren't seating, the cylinders 1 and 3 aren't looking too good. CYL1 - 96.0PSI CYL2 - 136.0PSI CYL3 - 109.0PSI CYL4 - 141.0PSI The car has 149k miles on it, so I'm hesitant to just slap a new head on when I'll probably be looking at piston or bearing issues in the not too distant future. My plan: OEM Heads - $600 x 2 - $1200 (Maybe I'll have them rebuilt instead) OEM EJ255 Shortblock - $1800 OEM Gasket Kit - $230 STI Oil Pump - $125 Gates Timing Kit - $250 Air Pump Delete - $50 ARP Head Studs - $250 Exedy stage 1 Clutch - $571 (Not really necessary) Killer Bee Oil Pickup - $175 Invidia Catless Uppipe - $150 Mishimoto Turbo Inlet - $210 Fuel Pump - $170 Injectors - $350 Basically $5k+ in parts I'm going to start ordering parts soon, I am planning on having everything by June. My only plan in the future is a down-pipe, intake and tune. I'm going to be doing the work myself, I'm pretty confident I can get it done. Am I missing anything? what do you guys think about this list, anything I should change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 See my click here link in my sig for idea's. In less your looking for big HP, I'd not waste money on the fuel pump or injectors. Use that money for the down pipe. IMO the Killer B pick is over kill, inspect your oil pick tube, if it ain't cracked put it back in. The cracked tubes seemed to be later 2005 to early mid 2006's. Use a OEM water pump, a few of us have had issues with the gates pump. IMO the Gate stiming belt is as good as any the auto parts stores sell. The Dayco belt I had worked fine. I used a stock intake tube it was like $90. Have your heads rebuilt, shouldn't cost more then around $500 or so. Oh read the sticky's up top of this and other forums here, check out JmP's sticky at the top of the 4th Gen forum lots of great info on parts there. Oh, welcome to the Forum. Every thing you need to know is here. Where in MA are you, tell us the town, The best Tuner for these cars is in Vernon CT just off exit 65 on rt84. Have him do your tune, Mike Kinsman of www.tuningalliance.com 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 The only reason I want to replace the pump/injectors is because the car has a fuel issue, I'm getting a new pump first to see if that's the source of the problem. Hopefully the injectors are fine. If I don't need the killer bee tube, then I'll skip it. I just got scared after reading about oil pickup failures. I'm undecided on what to do with the heads. I'm borrowing a friend's garage to do the swap, so I want to have as minimal down time as possible. Ideally, I'd like to show up with all my parts ready to go in, but after working on my WRX for the past 8 years, I know there will be hang ups. I'm just north of Leominster/Fitchburg, I'll definitely check them out. Thanks for the helpful welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 I'm still running the oil pick up tube that came in my wagon, it's build date is May 2004. Your close to ESP in Sterling MA, that's where Mike uses the dyno. Remember to order the half moon seals for the back of the heads as they don't come in the gasket set. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 So I picked up a set of used heads, they showed up with this nice long scratch on the mating surface... http://i.imgur.com/KmpL79W.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Ask your machine shop if they can deck that out without raising the CR too much. If not, send 'em back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Well, it's been over a year since I've started this project. It's taking me so long because I've bought a house and had a baby in that span, but I now have an awesome garage to work in! I ended up going with a brand new short block, the heads were able to be rebuilt. Almost ready to put everything back in! http://i.imgur.com/20jFhJj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VdEzVsb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Congrat's on the baby. Nice to see your making progress. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Good progress! In life and with the motor. FWIW Moroso also makes an oil pickup for our motors. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 I actually went with the Moroso pickup! Got it for $75. I have a question, is it necessary to replace the oil pan and oil pump after a turbo failure, or can they be cleaned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 "People" say to always replace the oil pump and oil cooler after a turbo grenades because of how intricate the internal passages are = you can't be confident they're 100% clean. First-hand knowledge is a valuable thing, so I say try to clean the old ones and find out if you agree with "people" or not. The oil pan isn't very complicated, and you'll be fine as long as you get in there really good with a pressure washer to make sure there's nothing left hiding in a corner under a baffle. If the cost isn't a critical factor, replace everything that touches oil and have no fear. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 If the cost isn't a critical factor, replace everything that touches oil and have no fear. Its cheap insurance compared to the cost of another rebuild in a few month's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Alright, I just ordered a new pan and 11mm pump. I still need to clean out the AVCS gears, but I should be able to completely assemble the block once those come in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 The engine is almost ready to go back into the car. At the recommendation of BNR, I installed a sandwich plate adapter to feed oil to the turbo. I am wondering if I can plug the oil bung in the back of the head with a regular bolt and crush washer? I have this oil line, Which doesn't connect to the turbo oil feed on the back of the head like the picture below. The bung I want to plug is labeled "AVCS OIL FEED" in this picture. http://elementtuning.com/V8%20Install/Elemen13.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 Just curious but why would you want to block off oil feed to your AVCS? That could cause all types of issues.. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebrauk Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 Sorry for the poor picture. There will still be oil feed to the avcs, I'm just using the 06 sti feed line instead of the original one 06 sti line: Original line: http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/turbo/oil_feed/DSC08093.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 There are oil flow charts in the back of the service manuals. You may find your answer there. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ or whats the back of the 07-09 head look like...yea, I should know that... sorry I don't. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_5/engine/cylinder_head/illustration_1/ I think the heads are different on a 07-09. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I think the heads are different on a 07-09. That was the D25 headed generation, no? IIRC, the D25 heads are set up in two possible configurations:1) to feed AVCS from the top of the head and trubo from the rear, and 2) to feed turbo and AVCS from a single point on the top of the head. The B25 ('05-'06) are set up to feed both AVCS and turbo from the rear of the head with the secondary oil feed location being blocked off on the top of the head. Joebrauk, you have D25 heads bolted on there so why not take advantage of the available oil feed location on there? A sandwich plate for a turbo feed, at least on these cars, seems sort of unnecessary for me. I'm actually curious about BNR's justification for it! Also, if you want to block that rear oil feed off, IAG has a nice bolt specifically for that which they include in their oil feed line kits. I used my rear feed on my B25 heads, so I still have it. If you want it, you can have it. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 That was the D25 headed generation, no? IIRC, the D25 heads are set up in two possible configurations:1) to feed AVCS from the top of the head and trubo from the rear, and 2) to feed turbo and AVCS from a single point on the top of the head. The B25 ('05-'06) are set up to feed both AVCS and turbo from the rear of the head with the secondary oil feed location being blocked off on the top of the head. Joebrauk, you have D25 heads bolted on there so why not take advantage of the available oil feed location on there? A sandwich plate for a turbo feed, at least on these cars, seems sort of unnecessary for me. I'm actually curious about BNR's justification for it! Also, if you want to block that rear oil feed off, IAG has a nice bolt specifically for that which they include in their oil feed line kits. I used my rear feed on my B25 heads, so I still have it. If you want it, you can have it. Thanks, it's one of those things I know of, just don't know a whole lot about it. My vf52 is very happy with the stock oil feed with both filters removed on my 05 wagon. I know you know that, that's just for general info for others. I'm assuming Brian's reasoning is because of all the warranty complaints he has gotten over the years. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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