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How to: Installing a BNR turbo


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I know there are plenty of turbo install walkthroughs already. But with the release of the BNR hybrid turbos I thought this might help the numerous members purchasing these new turbos.

 

Because I already have a FMIC I am skipping the removal of the TMIC and starting with the turbo exposed. If you need instructions on removal of the TMIC please search.

 

I also changed the oil and coolant so my motor was dry during the swap. You do not have to do this. You wil lose very minimal oil (drops) and if you clamp off the coolant supply and return hoses you will lose minimal drops) of coolant too.

 

Pic 1=

The objective. You can see the top side turbo to downpipe bolts. You need to remove the two bolts on top and the nut on the passenger side.

 

Pic 2=

The bottom side turbo to downpipe studs. You need to remove the bottom nut and the drivers side nut.

 

All are accessible from the top except the very bottom nut (under the bell housing). Use some PB Blaster to assist in removal. If replacing the heatshield note the orientation of the bracket.

 

Pic 3=

The downpipe hanger connection to the tranny. You will need to remove this.

 

Pic 4=

The O2 sensor connection. Easiest to remove the plug here and leave the O2 in the pipe.

 

Pic 5=

The bottom connection of the turbo oil return line. Note the orientation of the hose and clamp. I marked mine with lines on top and bottom. Best to release the clamp and let it fall on the tube.

 

Pic 6=

The top connection of the turbo oil return hose. You cant get to it. Leave it alone. When you pull the turbo up the hose will still be attached to the turbo.

 

Pic 7=

The first uppipe to turbo bolt. PB Blaster again and remove.

 

Pic 8=

Another angle.

 

Pic 9=

The last two uppipe to turbo bolts. You need to remove these two as well.

 

Pic 10=

The flare fitting of the oil line. Use two wrenches on one top and one on bottom. Hold the bottom in place and break the top loose. It is tight. Be careful not to bend the pipe, it will break.

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Pic 11=

The oil line fitting and the coolant return hose. If clamping this hose be careful, the heat coating will probably crack at the least. No big deal.

 

Pic 12=

The coolant supply hose . You can clamp it off and remove from the turbo only.

 

Pic 13=

Coolant hoses removed, oil line removed.

 

Pic 14=

Another angle. Just need to release the clamp on the turbo inlet now and pull of the vacuum hoses.

 

Pic 15=

Turbo out. Just pull back and then straight up. Remember you are pulling the hose off the bottom pipe too. It might resist a little.

 

I also circled the "infamous" banjo bolt with filter. This is a 2008. On earlier models it was on the side instead of the top. Remove this banjo bolt. Then use a pick and remove the filter from inside the bolt. Replace.

 

Pic 16=

My trick to install the new turbo with no tools on the inlet. Put your gasket on the uppipe, remove the hex bolt holding the inlet tube in place, then use string or zip ties (like I did) wrapping around the inlet and the manifold.

 

The inlet faces a bit down. The turbo needs to go over the studs and onto the oil return line while going into the inlet all at the same time. If you release the inlet it has some play. Use the ties to hold the inlet up so that the "mouth" is slightly tilted up. You are lifting it as far as possible.

 

Pic 17=

Another angle of my zip ties.

 

Pic 18=

The turbo dropped back in. The oil line was mounted to the turbo before install. The coolant lines and oil line were checked for torque too. The oil return hose was attached in the same position as it came off.

 

When installing I rest the turbo on the uppipe studs from the top. I go underneath and align the oil return hose and tube. You can get the hose to just set a bit on the pipe with the turbo beginning to go onto the studs. From the top I drop the turbo over the studs while angling in the inlet. A little angle and wiggle and it will go in to the inlet as it falls over the studs and onto the oil return tube. You might have to do it a few times, be patient it will work. A second set of hands is a huge help, but I usually do it alone. If the inlet is sticking use a little motor oil on the inside of the inlet. It will help.

 

Once the turbo is sitting in place you can cut the zip ties and pull them out. Then torque down the turbo (3 bolts), I like to use some anti-seize on all the turbo to uppipe and downpipe bolts.. Then tighten the clamp on the inlet and replace the inlet hex bolt.

 

Go underneath and lift the spring clamp back onto the oil return hose now. too

 

Pic 19=

Oil line tightened back down and coolant return hose replaced.

 

Pic 20=

Another angle.

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Edited by m sprank
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Pic 21=

The coolant supply line installed.

 

Reconnect the vacuum hoses. Now to reinstall your downpipe. Just reverse the removal procedure. Then reinstall your TMIC/FMIC.

 

Fill your coolant reservoir over the turbo if you pinched off the hoses. Replace your oil and coolant if you drained it like me.

 

I remove the fuel pump fuse and turn the engine over a few times to make sure the turbo is primed with coolant and oil. Then I start it up. It will smoke some as the oil residues burn off. Check for leaks. If none you can install your heatshield (after cool down).

 

I like to drive for 100+ miles in closed loop to "break in" the turbo.

 

The last 3 pix are just a few of my BNR EVO16g

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Edited by m sprank
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Thanks for the writeup!

 

Quick question though...If I'm installing an avo inlet at the same time as the turbo...should I throw that in right before I bolt up the turbo or after? Also, do you think I can just loosen the bolts on the manifold in stead of taking it off completely?

 

A little off topic but any help is appreciated

 

Thanks

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It can be done without removing the manifold.

 

It is a hard call sometimes as removing the manifod can be a pain. Sometimes you get lucky though.

 

I would remove the turbo, then remove the inlet and install the AVO. At least that way you have access at both sides of the manifold. Then I would use some form of lubricant (oil, soap?) to assist in getting the turbo to slide into the inlet (silicone can be sticky).

 

 

Thanks Dale! Did I get stickied? The few, the proud, the ... (no disrespect to the Marine Corp) stickied.

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  • 2 weeks later...
It is very tight from the factory. Try some PB Baster. Then hold the bottom very steady (no turning) and loosen the top. It will take a lot of force (more than you really might think you should apply). It will "snap" when it gives. Then it will be loose. Every turbo swap I have done this was an issue. I chalk it up to the Subaru torque gorilla at the factory.
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I could not get any leverage on the coupling. In the end we followed the service manual and removed the banjo bolt and support bracket and bent the line out of the way.

 

My TS VF-37 setup is now up and running and Shamar is helping me tune. Now I will no longer bore you with OT stuff ;)

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Got the VF52 out. Biggest pain by far was a DP-to-exhaust bolt that I spent over an our on and thought I'd have to cut off. I finally got the damn thing off and went and got 2 new bolts and nuts. Second biggest pain was getting the DP off. I could not slide it out of the tranny hanger because the still attached DP O2 would hit the heat shield over the exhaust. I ended up cutting away a little of the heat shield so the DP could slide to the side out of the hanger. I cleaned everything up and will install the BNR turbo in the a.m.

 

Here is a couple pics of my install. I only included pics that were different from what msprank already provided.

 

I used my overhead garage shelf to tie up the inlet as high as it would go:

 

http://beeez.com/lgt/install1.jpg

 

In addition I crossed a couple cables over the turbo. I figure I can use these as "helping hands" to suspend the turbo while installing, if needed. I doubt I'll need them but figured it might be nice:

 

http://beeez.com/lgt/install2.jpg

 

I definitely needed to put all 4 corners on stands as high as my floor jack would go. I was tempted to get out my 20-ton bottle jack and go higher, but this we just enough to be reasonably comfortable.

 

http://beeez.com/lgt/install3.jpg

My '05 LGT

My '07 Supercharged Shelby

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  • 4 weeks later...

Installed Drew88's HTA68 hybrid today. Turbo went in smooth, darn FP oil line was a PAIN. Not meant for the 07-09 motor. Bad location and the 90deg fitting is hitting the inlet tube from the bottom.

 

This is NOT an issue on 05-06 models when using this line.

 

No pix, sorry.

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  • 1 month later...

I just replaced mine...need to burp the system now. The hardest part for me was to get the oil return line on the turbo. What is the easiest method to attach the return oil line? I don't think mine's on that tight and I'm afraid it may pop off. Also, how much pressure is generated in that line (I'm assuming it's the same as the whole system)?

 

Thanks!

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^^ I don't think the return line is under high pressure at all. The supply line isn't much wider than a toothpick and I think the fat return line functions like a drain. I think as long as you got the return line over the oil outlet on the turbo and have the clip reasonably snug you'll be fine.

My '05 LGT

My '07 Supercharged Shelby

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I have a "trick" I use for the pesky oil return line. I either cut a longer piece of new hose (easier) or if reusing OEM here is what I do.

 

OEM has a paint mark on it designating orientation. Note this when removing OEM turbo. Place hose on new turbo in exact same orientation. Use worm gear or similar clamp on turbo side. Use OEM spring clamp on bottom side. Set spring clamp on lower tube. It will fall to the turn in the tube. When installing the turbo be sure the hose lines up. When you push the turbo down the hose will start (if not go all the way on, a little motor oil helps for lube). If hose is not all the way seated, pull it down with hose pliers. Then use needle nose and grab the lower spring clip. Lift it up onto the hose. Done. Low pressure. Should not leak.

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