Tehnation Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 So I found my oil leak, and its the passenger side valve cover gasket. I have been looking for a write up but there doesnt seem to be one. Anyone have any idea of what i'm in for? It doesnt look easy to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainobvious Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I had mine done 2months ago. Had a mechanic friend do them for me. Parts I got at cost through the dealer in cortland and they did both sides for $200. Where in westchester are you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 New Rochelle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotTurboWut Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Just had both of mine done. Worst side was the passenger side...awful smell coming through the vents. There's a kit with both gaskets and spark plug boots, I think...you can find them for about $100. Cost me $300 for labor on both sides and the kit. Subaru wanted $600. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainobvious Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Im in Carmel. If you need someone to do the gaskets for you i am sure i can recommend someone that is reasonable and if you need the parts i can help u get them at cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Do you have to pull engine to change vc gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 No. Remove airbox remove coilpacks remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the head Remove hoses attached to valve cover take off old gasket clean the surface Put on new gasket and gasket maker per FSM instruction put valvecover on put in coilpacks make sure everything is connected Done. It's simple other than the tight spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotTurboWut Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Take it from me, make sure they connect the coil packs...if not, you'll throw a code...and that's scary! No. Remove airbox remove coilpacks remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the head Remove hoses attached to valve cover take off old gasket clean the surface Put on new gasket and gasket maker per FSM instruction put valvecover on put in coilpacks make sure everything is connected Done. It's simple other than the tight spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Haha I think you're gonna have some more exciting problems than just a CEL if you leave the coils unplugged. That's a good way to see how your motor mounts are holding up though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 We can do the VCG if need be. We charge about 300 for the labor on both sides. Let us know if you need us to help out. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 It's so easy. Do you have a 10mm ratchet? Yes? You can do this job. Gasket maker is unnecessary, the gaskets are molded rubber and are not designed to have RTV silicone applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 It's so easy. Do you have a 10mm ratchet? Yes? You can do this job. Gasket maker is unnecessary, the gaskets are molded rubber and are not designed to have RTV silicone applied. Not according to the FSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thats why it is somewhat of a pita. We allow them to dry for a few hrs before starting it to allow it to set properly. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Sometimes things are not as easy as people would make them out to be. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Thats why it is somewhat of a pita. We allow them to dry for a few hrs before starting it to allow it to set properly. -mike I let mine sit over night. I wasn't taking any chances Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I let mine sit over night. I wasn't taking any chances That is even better. We have on occasion done that if the custy has left it with us overnight. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Looks like the 2.5i and GT are a little different then I suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I let mine sit over night. I wasn't taking any chances Just did mine over the weekend and all in all it was fairly straight forward. i would however like to kick the person who thought of the bottom bolt location on the driver side near the firewall. I had to reach from the underside and tighten it a 1/4 turn at a time. I let it set over night also. There is a slight difference in the FSM and "vacation pics" locations to apply sealant, not sure of the year though in the FSM. No leaks! It does have a rough idle now, i am hoping that i accidently got some oil in the spark plug well and it needs to burn off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Check for vacuum leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I did mine but the gasket kept getting pulled out due to a bolt on the camshaft area. had subaru put it back in and it took the mech 3 times to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Check for vacuum leaks. Didn't see any, i pulled all of the tubes out and soap tested them. what i did notice is that the PCV valve was full of oil and didn't rattle. i cleaned it out again and it did run better but still a slight "almost" stall after accelerating and letting off. i suppose i should just replace it, i am at 130k+. there was oil in the vacuum lines coming from the valve covers, it may have been residual though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 still a definite problem, it will stall after letting off the accelerator. it will idle okayish when i start it as long as i don't touch the gas and at red lights i have to keep my foot rested on the pedal to keep it alive. any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 FWIW in a GT it would most likely be the o-rings at the TGV's to intake manifold. Have you cleaned the MAF and IAT sensors ? I don't know a lot about 2.5i 's You may want to start your own thread about this issue. It might get more "air time" on the forum. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie_dude05 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I did clean the MAF last night, haven't cleaned the IAT yet. From the searching it also appears to possibly be a spark plug/ wire issue. i am going to run to autozone and have then pull any codes. thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff400 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 This was easier said than done. Did mine yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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