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No More Stripped Turbo to TMIC Threads


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These are the bolts included in the Perrin install; is it one of these?

(2) M8x40mm Hex head bolts

(2) M6x25mm SS button head bolts

No shit the Perrin TMIC came with it's own turbo bolts?

That's precisely what I have and I don't remember ever seeing them, they may still be in the box. If that's the case it just made my job a lot easier.

Thanks buddy! I think option 1 is the winner.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was thinking about doing this because I swapped to RPS clutch bolts to keep my TMIC bolted up. What sizes are those bolts? I know its been 5 years but anyone recently do this?

 

Also whats the easiest way to reshape the bolt after the cut?

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I think the ones I used way back when were m8's. I probably still have a couple of the header bolts in my tool box. I'll see if I can find them an get the actual thread size and pitch. What is most important; since the turbo threads are stripped in most cases anyway, is that you get them far enough in to seat the non-threaded part of the studs tight against the turbo and get a nut on the bottom of them(they should have square ends so you can hold them with pliers or the right size socket while tightening the bottom nuts). Then you can slide the intercooler down them and nut em up from the top. The studs are hardened steel, so sliding the IC on and off won't chew the threads up at all. The header studs I used were found in the "HELP" section of an Advanced Auto Parts store.
Let's kick this pig!
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Went to Advanced Auto Parts, got the header studs in the size mentioned above, worked like a dream.

I am glad I did this because holy shit, one of the bolts was basically sitting in the hole by force of gravity alone. I think it rattled itself loose and then chewed up the threads. I could slide it in and out as if it was too small for the hole.

I definitely think this is the easiest way to do it. Even helicoiling it you still have to wrestle with the TMIC a bit to line it up. This way, it will slide right onto the studs.

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FWIW, I have replaced the studs in my UP pipe with bolts. It makes mounting the turbo with the oil return line on it much easier. It also helps in putting the inlet hose on the turbo.

 

The turbo is easy to slide around on the up pipe while you slip the inlet on. Then line the bolt holes up with the up pipe and drop the bolts in.

 

There's a picture in this thread. I'll edit this post with the correct post number with the photo when I get home or just post that one photo here, can't do that from work.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
i just installed a tmic, and my car stalled twice and is backfiring... im sure its a major leak somewhere, but anyways, when installing those bolts, they didnt just slip in, i had to put force on them halfway through, they might strip taking them out !! so was just wondering, instead of using the stud cant you just use a normal bolt and nut ?
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Of course you can use bolts and nuts.

 

The "leak" is likely the result of the hose coming off the nipple on the Intake Manifold, down low at the back under the TMIC. Multiple threads on it. ALL nipples for hoses on the IM are barbless and subject to blowing off under boost... OR when they are disturbed like during the work you did.

 

Use some superglue and Corbin Clamps for the most reliable repair, or superglue and zip-ties if you must. Again, ALL the "vacuum" hoses become BOOST hoses under power, and there are a bunch of them, so repair them all to preclude similar failures in the future.

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  • 1 month later...

You tread them gently :lol:

Are they completely destroyed? Can you at least lead the stud straight in?

There are nuts that you screw in on BOTH ends. So there will be a nut on the turbo side holding the stud in place and preventing it from sliding out, and there will be a nut on the TMIC side holding it down.

In other words the threads on the turbo are completely irrelevant at this point but it is preferable that they are at least partially intact to give you guidance and get the stud in straight. It won't be the threads holding the stud in, but the nuts on the stud's ends. The turbo one will stay on there forever and you just have to undo the top nut to get the TMIC off. You do not have to slide the studs out, the TMIC will clear them just fine. Make sense?

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You tread them gently :lol:

Are they completely destroyed? Can you at least lead the stud straight in?

There are nuts that you screw in on BOTH ends. So there will be a nut on the turbo side holding the stud in place and preventing it from sliding out, and there will be a nut on the TMIC side holding it down.

In other words the threads on the turbo are completely irrelevant at this point but it is preferable that they are at least partially intact to give you guidance and get the stud in straight. It won't be the threads holding the stud in, but the nuts on the stud's ends. The turbo one will stay on there forever and you just have to undo the top nut to get the TMIC off. You do not have to slide the studs out, the TMIC will clear them just fine. Make sense?

 

You said it perfectly. :)

 

Each time i take my tmic off there are metal shavings that flake out of the bolt holes. Stupid ass turbo.

 

See first post in thread... ends your issue and all other turbo-to-TMIC connection issues. Cheap and easy to do.

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On one side on the turbo my threads were so bad that the OEM bolt was basically just dangling in that space and was being held down by gravity alone.

The threads were completely gone from half up and the bolt had just worked itself loose. Threw on a GM water pump gasket on there between turbo and TMIC for good measure and if there will ever be a boost leak, I know what place it will NOT be coming from :lol:

Getting the angle right is crucial though. If you screw the studs in at a weird angle, when you will torque the nut down, the TMIC may not sit flush with the turbo.

 

The gasket you want is Mr. Gasket Thermostat Gasket Part No. 738G

It's for small block Chevy water pumps

Edited by fishbone
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Wow, tough audience :lol:.

 

Best I could do at the moment. It's pretty self-explanatory but these give some idea. I thought of pics when I was doing it, but in the middle of what I was in the middle of it dropped off the edge.

 

AutoZone told me the size, an odd number, but I forget. I took the two stock bolts to my local Suby friend so that I could match them up and got some bolts and nuts out of his bolt and nut can.

 

As you can see it is utterly simple.

 

 

What gasket is that?

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What gasket is that?

 

As I recall (it's been over five years) it is the gasket supplied by Perrin with the TMIC... which I used in conjunction with the OEM O-ring.

 

But there are other options, which have been variously mentioned. They boil down to thermostat gaskets for Chebbies. :) Also, making one's own is pretty simple... most auto-parts stores sell the materials.

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Like I said before, the gasket is Mr. Gasket Thermostat Gasket Part No. 738G works great and is a lot easier to install and also much more durable.

It's a small block Chevy water pump gasket.

Perfect fit.

It's a metal plate with rubber gaskets around where the TMIC bolts as well as around the actual opening.

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