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Cincy05LGT's 2005 LGT Build


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I've been lurking around here for years posting occasionally. Recently changed a few things on the car and felt the need to rekindle my relationship with you bunch of windowlickers.

 

I think I've decided to hang on to this car for quite some time, hoping to someday complete 6spd STi driveline swap, and have a superbly capable sedan capable of 12's and competitive in SM SCCA autocross.

 

Purpose: Weekends, AutoX Duty, and the occasional hellroad

Purchased: July 2009

Weight: 3400lbs

Motor: 2012 EJ257

Horsepower/Torque: 300/310

1/4 mile: 13.1 @ 104

Preferred shop of choice: My garage, PFP, TiC

 

Engine:

2012 OEM EJ257 shortblock

OEM heat treated crank

refinished LGT heads

Kinugawa TD05h 16g 8cm housing

PTP Thermal turbo blanket

COBB turbo heatshield

Gates Racing kevlar timing belt & pulley kit

ARP Head Studs

Perrin LWCP

Moore Performance Uncatted UP

DC Sports 3" Divorced WG Catless DP DEI Wrapped

Fast Motorsport (FMS) 3" cat back

Killer B Oil Pickup tube

Killer B windage tray

Grimmspeed TMIC

Grimmspeed 3port EBCS

Samco BPV hose

K&N Typhoon intake

DIY welded TGV deletes

Protuned by Dom of Maxwell Power at TiC

Perrin Turbo Inlet

DW65c high flow fuel pump

 

Drivetrain:

JDM Legacy 2.0GT 5mt transmission

OEM R160 diff replaced March 2018

Southbend Stage 2 Endurance Clutch

OEM 06+ WRX Singlemass Flywheel

STi Group N Trans Crossmember

TiC Transmission Bushings

Kartboy Pitch Stop Mount

TiC Holy Shift Kit

 

 

Suspension:

KW Variant 2 coilovers

Whiteline adjustable 22mm FSB

Whiteline roll center adjust kit

Kartboy Solid front endlinks

Whiteline steering rack bushings

 

Brakes:

OEM LGT Calipers

Centric premium rotors

Hawk HP+ pads

Motul RBF600 Fluid (changed 5/16)

Stoptech Stainless braided lines

GS MC brace

 

Exterior:

Plasti-dipped grill

Rally Armor Black Polyurethane Flaps w/ Red Lettering

DRL delete

DDM HID 5000k Low Beams

Red Hella Supertones

Debadge + STi badge

 

Interior:

Jazzy Mod Aux Input

Weathertech All-Season Floor Mats

Defi Racer Boost Gage

Innovate Motorsports MTX-L Wideband

 

Wheels/Tires:

Enkei GTC01 18x7.5 +48 hyperblack (summer)

Bridgestone Potenza RE11 225/40R18

OEM 17x7 stockers (winter)

Dunlop Winter Maxx 205/45R17

 

Shopping List:

Camber plates

MP Blast plates

245/40r18 RE-71R

2015+ STi steering rack swap

Whiteline rear adjustable arms

Rear subframe bushings

Diff bushings

Sti brake booster and MC swap

PU Front Lip Spoiler

35% Tint

AIG Billet topfeed tgv deletes

ID1050x topfeed injectors

Cobb Flexfuel kit

Cobb APV3

FPR

Tomei ELH

 

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Edited by Cincy05LGT
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  • 4 weeks later...
I finally had a Group N trans mount, TiC Crossmember bushings, and Whiteline steering rack bushings installed last weekend at Turn in Concepts. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The minimal increase in NVH is absolutely worth the connected solid feel and steering is crisp and positive. Couldn't be happier with these mods.
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Quick question... have you replaced the BPV with an aftermarket one, such as Forge? I just installed my FMS TMIC w/ a Forge BPV and noticed that it won't clear the hood, and i also have to slam the hood to get it to shut. The induction splitter that comes with the kit obviously needs to be modified... have you done this? Thanks!
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I have run into this issue and have yet to address it. I run the stock bpv due to clearance and it barely rubs the hood. I've tried to find a shorter than oem solution and haven't been successful. My splitter is completely removed ATM, hoping to fabricate one this spring.
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I'm thinking you can custom fab the brackets or bend them just right to get the TMIC to drop about an inch or so. Or at least drop the front down some. I believe that this would allow the BPV to clear the hood. The splitter would have to be chopped and screwed... But then I still doubt there would be any room to install it. If there's trouble with the BPV hitting, that splitter is huge in comparison.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

You'll know if a ringland goes, generally the knock sensor will hear it and cut all boost and timing advance. If you are consuming more than a quart every 3000 I'd say your engine would benefit from a rebuild... if that's in the cards or not I don't know.

 

There is a pretty active local scene here in Cincinnati, and has been for the last 4 years or so. Check out CincinnatiSubarus.com and register when you get a chance. We have meets every other week usually.

 

The original engine spun a bearing at 32k, replaced under warranty. The second engine blew #4 ringland around 97k chassis miles at stage 2.

 

Ringlands blow from excessive heat buildup due to poor tuning, and detonation. In my case it was astronomical EGT's that did me in on a poor tune. Be smart and you'll (usually) be ok.

Edited by Cincy05LGT
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It's really too bad I hacked up the FMS duct so bad it went in the trash...

 

I recently noticed Process West sells individual ducts sans intercooler now. Hoping on going this route. Awesome write up and diagram though!

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How much of a pain was it to peel? Mine is all wavey and I want to do this

 

Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk

 

It can be a major pain in the ass if not sprayed on thick enough. If it's too thin if will tear into little pieces rather than getting that long satisfying booger type peel.

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  • 6 months later...
A few more small items showed up for the clutch swap. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/17/6ddbaeb82a7b2fd20a58bf81296afcad.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/17/f089264866e1522322ea8de69bd4a401.jpgNow just waiting on torx bits from amazon and Motoool from TiC. Also picked up a holy shift kit.Disassembly begins tomorrow. Edited by Cincy05LGT
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Make sure you wipe the friction surfaces with a degreaser before you install. I use acetone.

 

Put a little grease on the tranny snout and ID of the pilot bearing and lightly on clutch splines.

 

Say your not doing a LWFW. that's the worst mod ever in these cars.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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No LWFW here, finally going OEM single mass. Time to embrace that rocks in a blender transmission sound on decel -_- when combined with group n mount and bushings.

 

Thanks for the install tips, though this will be my second time doing this!

Edited by Cincy05LGT
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Removed TMIC, dropped LCA's, removed front endlinks, drained trans fluid, removed downpipe, and pulled front axles last night. Taught my buddy Eike a few things about his Subaru in the process. Should have the prop shaft and trans out tonight to get a look at the clutch.
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I had to unbolt my turbo from the up pipe and slide it to the right so the tranny would slide by it. Glad I bolt the turbo to the up pipe.

 

May be if there's two of you, you may be able to rotate the tranny to clear the turbo.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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