CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

Changed the oil with Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w30. I figured I would try Synthetic blend and see if oil consumption reduces, if it still eats it/doesn't perform to my likings, will be switching to Rotella T6 5w40.

 

My highway gas mileage has been less then stellar, it's been hovering at 25mpg. While the very first trip was a good 27.8mpg. Major change was the catless uppipe and had to replace the O2 sensor due to stock getting damaged during install. Trying to troubleshoot the reduction in gas mileage I put in brand new double Iridum spark plugs (oem is iridum + platinum). Still 25mpg, no matter on what gap.

 

I've been thinking that maybe with the catless up pipe the car sits in boost at 3000rpm at 70mph, thus today after changing the oil unhooked the wastegate. Car builds 2psi at best with the door wide open, out of curiosity I'll do a virtual dyno to see how much power she's making tomorrow.

 

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Wastegate/VF40%20WG%20Disconnected.jpg?m=1389415502

 

Went on a 150 mile highway trip, 25.15mpg! Perhaps the reduction in gas mileage is a properly working O2 sensor. The old one might have been reading wrong and causing the car to lean out. Wish I could have had a wideband before going catless up pipe (would be really hard to do).

 

City only mileage is mid 16's, which is much lower then EPA, but I do live in the mountains. People get shocked every time I tell them the gas mileage my Legacy and Forester is getting; "It's as bad as a truck!". Factory turbo cars generally don't get good gas mileage, DYI turbo cars can get great gas mileage (20/36mpg on my G20). I blame compression, tiny turbos, tiny spark plug gaps, conservative maps and restrictive exhausts.

Here is the virtual dyno with the wastegate open. 149whp, this thing is FAST , it's shocking how much of a difference 50whp/wtq makes. Interesting, this turbo is small and the wastegate is undersized. Building 4.4 psi with the wastegate wide open is not good, this most likely the reason these turbos creep so much. Looks like I have some porting work ahead of me.

 

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Wastegate/LGT%20WG%20vs%20No%20WG.jpg?m=1389464054

Prepping the car for a long trip figured I would bleed the brakes and check things over.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0110.jpg

 

Bleeding Brakes

You generally want to start bleeding the brakes the furthest from the master cylinder, which on USDM cars is rear passenger side. Then do rear driver side, front passenger, and finally front driver side.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0111.jpg

 

Remove the rubber cap, nice and shiny metal is good, that means the cap is not leaking through. If you remove the cap and find rust underneath, replace the bleeder valve and rubber cap!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0112.jpg

 

Rear takes 5/16" wrench, clear hose (was clear before super blue!) attached to drain fluid and watch for air bobbles

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0116.jpg

 

Bleed process itself is simple, have a person pump 3 times and hold the pedal, open the bleeder valve and let fluid drain out, then close the valve. At this point person release the pedal and pump again.

 

Do this until you get to about half, don't push it too much or you will get air in the master cylinder. Now that you have room add new fluid.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0118.jpg

 

This is where the now banned Super Blue is awesome, it tells you exactly when you have cleaned out the old fluid.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0121.jpg

 

Hawk the master cylinder, don't let it get low.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0120.jpg

 

After you got all of the old fluid out of the rear move to the front. Front takes 10mm flare wrench but in a pickle a regular 10mm should do.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Bleeding/CIMG0122.jpg

 

Differential Fluid Change

The car was up anyway, so might as well change out the rear differential fluid.

 

Spray some PB blaster on the two bolts, let it soak, then use a torch to heat them up. If they are really stuck you will strip the inside of the square bolt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0148.jpg

 

Remove the fill bolt. Always remove the fill bolt first! If you drain the fluid but can't remove the fill bolt your car will be useless since you wont be able to refill the fluid and take it to a shop.

I use a regular 1/2" breaker bar for best leverage, this avoids stripping the inside of the bolt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0150.jpg

 

After fill bolt was successfully removed, removed the drain bolt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0151.jpg

 

Old fluid, probably original, it definitely stank like 100k mile fluid. Raise the front of the car up so that you can drain the most of your fluid.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0152.jpg

 

Clean up the fill and drain bolts, drain bolt is the one with the magnet.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0156.jpg

 

Install the drain bolt, I like to use some rtv for better seal.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0158.jpg

 

At this point you want to level out the car, that way you get the correct amount of fluid in the differential.

 

Filling it back up is the fun part, without a hand pump you will suffer, so run to your parts store and get an oil hand pump. As for fluid I used Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 synthetic fluid.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0160.jpg

 

Pump the fluid in until you start seeing it pour back out, at this point you are done, no more fluid needed. Put the fill plug back in and you should be good to go.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0166.jpg

 

You will have a bit of oil left, FSM calls for 0.8qt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Fluid-Change/CIMG0167.jpg

 

Parking Brake Adjustment

I noticed that front wheels spin a lot easier then the rear wheels, part of it is because front has an open differential while the rear has a viscous limited slip differential. Thus while the car was already up, I wanted to make sure the parking brake wasn't dragging.

 

Behind the rotor you will find a little window with a rubber insert.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Parking%20Brakes/CIMG0172.jpg

 

Under the rubber insert you will find the parking brake adjustment wheel.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Parking%20Brakes/CIMG0173.jpg

 

Rotate it up to tighten the brake, and down to loosen it. Make sure your handbrake is disengaged before adjusting.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Parking%20Brakes/CIMG0175.jpg

 

FSM calls for fully tightening the adjustment wheel then unscrewing it by 3-4 teeth. I found that this wasn't enough and could hear my brakes dragging. I thin it might be time for new shoes...

Edited August 7, 2014 by covertrussian

While under the car I looked over a few other things. Car definitely has rust, but it does seem to be all surface rust, will have to treat it later on.

 

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/General/CIMG0133.JPG?m=1389593767

 

Found a smiley face on the rear subframe

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/General/CIMG0129.JPG?m=1389593769

 

 

Stock Exhaust Size

Measured the stock exhaust, 2.37" OD for midpipe, same as STI.

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Midpipe/CIMG0134.JPG?m=1389593799

 

Then the exhaust splits into two 1.7" mufflers

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Midpipe/CIMG0136.JPG?m=1389593799

 

 

Aerodynamics

I got to admire the aerodynamic steps that Subaru designed. It is very impressive that they could get such a big car into 0.29 CD range and here is why.

 

Belly Pan "Diaper"

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Exterior/Aerodynamics/CIMG0138.JPG?m=1389595915

 

Smooth plastic to reduce roughness

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Exterior/Aerodynamics/CIMG0139.JPG?m=1389595917

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Exterior/Aerodynamics/CIMG0143.JPG?m=1389595914

 

Rear tire air deflectors

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Exterior/Aerodynamics/CIMG0142.JPG?m=1389595918

 

Rear bumper is almost flush with the bottom of the trunk, this is a big one that Nissan failed to do on the G20. Even then the G20 sports a fairly low 0.30 CD still!

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Exterior/Aerodynamics/CIMG0144.JPG?m=1389595919

Your mpg is pretty good, your not going to get much better then that.

 

FWIW, most of use have learned to only use Subaru Extra-S in the manual trannys and rear diff's. There is a Redlline lightweight shockproof and Motul 300 3/1 ratio for the trany's and straight 300 in the rer diff.

 

 

BTW, You are great with a camera, thanks for posting the photo's.

If you don't have a pump, you can also snake your fill hose down through one of the plugs in the trunk floor to fill the rear diff.

 

Nice work!

Your mpg is pretty good, your not going to get much better then that.

 

FWIW, most of use have learned to only use Subaru Extra-S in the manual trannys and rear diff's. There is a Redlline lightweight shockproof and Motul 300 3/1 ratio for the trany's and straight 300 in the rer diff.

 

 

BTW, You are great with a camera, thanks for posting the photo's.

 

I think it can get better, just gotta find the right mods. I am also trying to do everything without a tune too. Just seeing what she can do on fairly stock setup.

 

I bought a bunch of Valvoline Synthetic fluid, but then found out that our cars don't take it well. Since the rear diff's are not picky, I'm using the fluid in them (on the LGT and FXT). I already have Smurf blood motule coctail up front though.

 

If you don't have a pump, you can also snake your fill hose down through one of the plugs in the trunk floor to fill the rear diff.

 

Nice work!

 

Nice that's definitely an alternative if the pump is not an option. The pump is about $5 and worth every dollar. Instead of waiting for fluid to drain for hours, you can fill the transmission up in no time on FWD cars. On a Subaru it is sadly easier to just use a funnel with a hose.

Gearing up for a long trip, figured I would clean the MAF while I'm doing other maintenance.

 

First unplug the MAF then remove it. You can already see dust/dirt on it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255898&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

That's from wiping the part the part of the maf that goes inside the airbox

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255899&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Dirt/oil buildup can be seen on the IAT

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255900&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Back side of it is much cleaner...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255901&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Take some MAF cleaner and spray it all down

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255902&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Spray inside where the two MAF elements are

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255903&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

After that use a clean cotton ear swab to gently clean it, you can see how dirty the swab is!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255904&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

VERY CAREFULLY wipe down the inside

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255905&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Spray it all down with MAF cleaner again and let it dry

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255906&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

One thing I noticed is the o ring expanded a bit and didn't fit into the airbox well. Either remove the o-ring first, or wait a for it to dry and shrink.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255907&stc=1&d=1506400004

 

Install the sensor back into the airbox and leave it unplugged overnight to make sure it all dries out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255908&stc=1&d=1506400043

 

 

2017 Update:

After ~40k Miles it was time to clean the MAF again. Doing so had a very interesting effect, most notably my engine load went up and thus enriched my fuel from ~11.3 to ~10.7 AFR. Keep these mafs clean!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255896&stc=1&d=1506397928

Edited September 26, 2017 by covertrussian

Or don't get the cleaner on the o-ring. That way it won't expand.

 

I got a two CEL after cleaning mine once, I cleared the codes and drove the car.

 

I leave the wire plugged in now.

 

Hey, is your power steering fluid high ?

Or don't get the cleaner on the o-ring. That way it won't expand.

 

I got a two CEL after cleaning mine once, I cleared the codes and drove the car.

 

I leave the wire plugged in now.

 

Hey, is your power steering fluid high ?

 

Pfft that's extra effort . But yeah just don't get it on it and you'll be fine.

 

I left the car in the garage all night, left it unplugged. Plugged in the MAF, turned key to ACC, reset the ECU with LearningView, turned off car and fired it up. Started up no problems, no CEL's. Car seems to idle slightly better, but it's still relearning, but we'll see once it self learns.

 

Last I checked the PS level was good, it's definitely ATF inside of it so that's why it's so dark.

Looks like its on the full hot line, If the engine was cold, it might be over filled when the engine and system warm up.

The car had a typical clank over the bumps, which is the fault of worn end links. The dust covers are shot on both sides...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0216.jpg

 

I didn't want to spend $50 on OEM like links when I could upgrade. Didn't feel like spending $100+ on decent aftermarket ones, thus figured I would get eBay WRX ones a shot. I mean how hard is it to screw up solid aluminum and poly bushings? One thing I wasn't positive of in fitment.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0213.jpg

 

You might be wondering why so many bolts... well China apparently thinks 4.8 class bolts belong in suspension parts, thus I bought $10 (supporting local hardware store) 10.9 class bolts. Do note that stock bolts are 10mm, while these have one 10mm and one 8mm. I might drill out the 8mm to be 10mm later...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0214.jpg

 

Width seems to be good!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0217.jpg

 

Pain is getting the rusty stock ones up, swaybar end was easy, but lower control arm one was stuck good.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0219.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0220.jpg

 

Looks like it should fit length wise too

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0221.jpg

 

Here is the problem with the stock end links and even aftermarket ones that are designed the same. Look how much the end link bends before it starts letting the swaybar do its work.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0225.jpg

 

Light with all suspension parts, you should tighten them with full load, I removed the end links with tires off (easier to reach) but then drove on rams to tighten it all up.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0227.jpg

 

Fit's pretty good, I did have to source a few extra washers.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0228.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0231.jpg

 

Test driving I did hear some noise, it's from poly rubbing against bushings/bar most likely. I will get under the car again to replace the 8mm bolt with a longer one, at that point will make sure all is still good.

 

EDIT: 8mm bolts didn't hold up, they weren't long enough thus lock nuts stripped off. Drilled it out to 10mm and used longer bolts

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0407.jpg

 

Added Kartboy swaybar spacers (KB-017WLS) too

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0409.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front%20EndLinks/CIMG0410.jpg

Edited August 7, 2014 by covertrussian

After I cleaned the MAF it felt like the car picked up some power. Since most of my virtual dyno runs were done in warmish winter weather (50-65*F), and today being in the mid 50's I wanted to see if the car gained power from MAF cleaning. I've been driving on a stock airbox for a while after MAF cleaning / ECU reset, so self learning should have taken effect already.

 

I did a virtual dyno run with stock airbox, 192whp / 201wtq, power seemed to be down actually from previous runs, but temperatures and atmospheric pressures change. This is why I try to do virtual dyno runs back to back when testing mods.

 

Here is what the stock intake looks like:

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200001.JPG?m=1390281280

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200002.JPG?m=1390281284

 

I was surprised to see such a big hole in the fender, luckily you don't need to drop the bumper to remove the resonator. (see the trash? ha)

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200004.JPG?m=1390281277

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200005.JPG?m=1390281279

 

MAF side of the box, not the best design for airflow.

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200012.JPG?m=1390338580

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200013.JPG?m=1390338582

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200014.JPG?m=1390338579

 

Giant resonator/leaf collector

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200003.JPG?m=1390281283

 

Airbox has a 3" hole for the resonator

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200006.JPG?m=1390281287

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200007.JPG?m=1390281288

 

Remove that and you got cold air coming in from the fender.

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200008.JPG?m=1390281290

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200010.JPG?m=1390281293

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200011.JPG?m=1390281292

 

I didn't bother resetting the ECU since it's still running stock airbox, plus driving around to reset IAM is annoying (I'm going to flash the ecu to have 1.0 IAM by default!). Anyway resonator removed got me very impressive gains, 207whp / 205 wtq, I almost wonder if it was a fluke, but the car definitely felt less restricted.

 

This could also be a gain from the motor leaning out and ECU not compensating for it yet, as you can see the stock AFR gauge is useless. Which means the power gains would be reduced after self learn is complete.

 

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/LGT%20Stock%20Airbox%20vs%20No%20Resonator.jpg?m=1390337731

 

EDIT: I will hold off on any more testing until I do a downpipe and wire in the WB02.

Edited January 21, 2014 by covertrussian

Breaking up the Stock intake and K&N post into two so that I can have more pictures.

 

No reason to remove the resonator. That piece that goes from above the grille to the airbox is basically a CAI already.

More airflow = more power, this is not the first time I've seen gains from removing resonator. My power gains were not as good with a dirty MAF though.

 

The generally accepted wisdom on here is that the stock intake does not start limiting you until around 350whp. I am wondering if the power boost from the intake is due to one of two things:

 

I like to question and test the general wisdom to see if it holds ground. Sometimes it's just "because XYZ said you wont make power", other times it could be a real reason. Don't read this as me questioning the safety concerns from intake causing a lean out condition though!

 

General wisdom is to also run stock catback, which is 2.37" to dual 1.7" mufflers. You have SR20 building history, would you ever run a 2.0L SR20DE(T) with such tiny exhausts (Sure the DP is 2.37" but them cats!)? No, we say 2.5" is barely minimum and 3" is pretty much required for turbo applications. Heck even with NA SR20 going to 3" yielded about 5whp increase over 2.5".

 

Stock intake is not a great design for flow on the MAF side:

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200012.JPG?m=1390338580

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Intake/Stock-Airbox/Airbox%200013.JPG?m=1390338582

 

1. Differences in the road or inaccuracies due to using 2nd gear for the pulls

2. Running lean because your MAF scaling is not corrected for the intake.

 

1. This could be yes, the road I use has a very slight incline (I live in the mountains impossibru to find a real straight road), but it has a U turn where I can turn around and gun it in 2nd. It has proven to be very consistent on my Nissan's, even with different temperatures.

 

It's VERY hard to get consistent #'s on the Subaru due to IAT based timing/fuel trims. This is why I try to do these tests within an hour span. I did the stock vs no reso within 10 minute span (stopped on side of the road to pull the resonator). Self learning gets in the way too, since I swapped the intake and did another run within 1 mile radius it didn't get a chance to self learn in this case.

 

2. I wont disagree with this one until I have a new downpipe with wideband to see for myself. With the flowstack evening out the airflow I'm sure the values are going to be off. I want to get a stock airbox to harvest the MAF housing out and put an intake ontop of that, but from what I'm hearing it might still mess with numbers.

 

If the latter, as you know, it may be more power, but it's at the expense of safety. On these cars, you really need a tune for an intake. They are a lot more finicky than the older Nissan turbo cars.

 

We also rarely used Nissan MAF's in a different MAF housing, they could be as picky when that kind of a change too.

 

Either way I changed the post to only include stock airbox testing and design. I will continue this again once I go stage 2.

Edited January 21, 2014 by covertrussian

Recommend you move this to your VB garage.

Swaybar Endlinks

8mm bolts didn't hold up, they weren't long enough thus lock nuts stripped off. Drilled it out to 10mm and used longer bolts

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front-Endlinks/CIMG0407.JPG?m=1390965341

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Suspension/Swaybar/Front-Endlinks/CIMG0408.JPG?m=1390965337

 

Turbo Oil Drain

While I had the downpipe off, I was able to look for where my oil leak was coming from. Think I found it, turbo oil drain. The stock clip was barely clamping the hose.

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Lines/Turbodrain001.JPG?m=1390965301

 

Reinforced it with a worm clamp

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/Turbo/Lines/Turbodrain002.JPG?m=1390965301

You may want to replace that drain hose. They have been know to crack and leak alot of oil.

Yup will probably do that when I pull the turbo. I tried to pull the hose off the line, but it was pretty rock solid, thus had to fight with the worm clamp to get it on and tightened.

rock solid = hard and about ready to crack.

 

When you pull the turbo, think about using my idea and bolt the new turbo back on, don't use the studs. Bolts are much easier when trying to line up the oil drain, inlet and up pipe.

It was also under 30*F so that could be why too. Once it gets a little warmer I do plan on further overhauling things.

 

I can see why bolts would make it easier to align indeed, with the back of the turbo bolts (under downpipe) where bolts harder to get in?

Thereal issue is the studs hold the trubo up and make it hard to slip the trubo into the intake tube and on to the oil return at the same time. With a flat surface for the trubo to sit on, its easy to slip the oil return hose on, then push the turbo forward into the inlet without cutting the inlet tube.

 

Been there, done that.

This is great stuff. The pics are great and all the how-to's have sure helped me understand some things. Raised some questions too. I got more research to do! Many thanks covert!

This is great stuff. The pics are great and all the how-to's have sure helped me understand some things. Raised some questions too. I got more research to do! Many thanks covert!

 

Glad to help, I'll be taking some of the posts and making dedicated how to's in a bit

When are you going to upgrade the turbo?