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Valve Body Mods, Giant Leaps Forward!!!


ClimberDHexMods

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The waiting list for 08 core exchange same day install option would be many months unless you're one of the earliest guys in line. Sending in your valve body for service would be the way to get it done earlier.

But first, let's see how the tests go. The 08 valve body is 100% different parts and architecture. The only commonality (mostly) is the big hunk of spinning parts above it.

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anything i can do to help?

 

Fly to Dallas and crash course me in lathe operation. I may need your help tomorrow, but somehow, right now, I'm actually doing well... ... famous last words.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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I run manual lathes and mills all the time at work.

 

1. What material are you cutting?

2. What diameter? Round stock, square stock, casting?

3. Tooling. Carbide or HSS?

4. 3 jaw or 4 jaw or collet or face plate?

 

Speeds and feeds are kind of important.

 

Feel free to PM me.

 

-JB

 

BTW this valve body is one of the best mods I have done, tranny is still doing just fine. :)

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I run manual lathes and mills all the time at work.

 

1. What material are you cutting?

2. What diameter? Round stock, square stock, casting?

3. Tooling. Carbide or HSS?

4. 3 jaw or 4 jaw or collet or face plate?

 

Speeds and feeds are kind of important.

 

Feel free to PM me.

 

-JB

 

BTW this valve body is one of the best mods I have done, tranny is still doing just fine. :)

 

I've put more energy into learning to make chips than I sounded. I'll definitely get back with you or Frank_ster if I run into a question mark.

Have HSS right now, will switch to carbide for convenience and ease. I never know which carbide set to buy, since I've seen almost everything used to make almost anything.

 

Most everything will be in either the 3-jaw or 4-jaw. Would really like to find soft jaws for my Grizzly G0602, haven't even looked into that yet.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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the only trick that isn't obvious to most people is the two equal cut final passes to get high precision on the diameter. other than that i'm sure david will figure it out!

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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I'm sure David will get it figured. One thing I have learned is every machine acts different. You want .050 and get .051, or you ask for .018 and get .015.

 

Carbide tooling is the way to go if you have a lot of material to remove, but it gets expensive in a hurry. It needs a rigid set up as it is hard as ***k but it can be brittle and chip. HSS is tougher but you got to go slower.

 

Emery cloth is your friend.

 

What are the soft jaws for??

 

Hmm, I do have access to some aluminum. And a mill. ;)

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the only trick that isn't obvious to most people is the two equal cut final passes to get high precision on the diameter. other than that i'm sure david will figure it out!

 

I typically make the final cut nice and shallow as well, like .002" or .003" for a nice finish.

 

The soft jaws help avoid marring the machined surface of the piston by the chuck. I like the 4 jaw chuck better. Agreed on deburring any marks left by the chuck.

 

I'm thinking of cutting thin slices of large diameter PVC tubing to slip around the back side of the piston where it gets chucked. No marring, easier to adjust parallelism, and faster to chuck up. Match the ID of the PVC as close as possible to the OD of the piston diameter to be chucked, then cut the slice so that it will flex in/out to conform to the backside of the piston. That would make it easer to chuck the input piston as well, which has a fillet radius on the back side right where you want to chuck it. You need some type of spacer there anyhow. I used 4 random pieces of 1/8th aluminum the first time. The PVC spacers will be the way to go though.

Edited by KoukiS14
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PVC ring caps are a great idea. I was wondering if there was an easier way to do it.

 

My machinist friend here also heavily emphasized finishing with emery cloth to get down to 0.0005, but that's more for bushings than pistons.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Are you guys talking about turning engine pistons? If you are, I'd think HSS would be just fine for that.

I love cutting with Carbide, but we do some high volume jobs with alot of material removal so it's worth it.

Sit down when you start pricing out Carbide k? :-)

I don't think I would trust a Grizzly lathe for that though, not enough repeatability there.

If you need some prototype type work done let me know, I'm ok with a lathe but I'm pretty good on a mill.

I could get one of our guys to make a program at least.

 

And as a rule of thumb, I leave .005-.010 for a final pass when milling, and for what I've done on the lathe .003-005 for a final has been working great.

Depending on the mat'l if you try to cut too little, it will just deflect the tooling and make a "spring pass.

Edited by TheBlackPearl
Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014.
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^ Yeah I totally got lost in the tabs yesterday, and like 20 mins before that I was talking with a buddy about whacking some of the dome off my 12.5:1? slugs for my small block chev, so when I saw pistons and machinging, I got excited, lol.

 

That's so bitchin' you, Frank, and Climber are getting this deep into the 5eats.

This also excites me, hahaha.

Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014.
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