Street Tuner/Access Tuner Race Discussion Thread

I've got a 2008 LGT with a Cobb downpipe and AVO piping and mufflers and a K & N intake, everything else is stock at this point. I've recently purchased a Cobb AP as well. I was told that the Stage II map wouldn't quite do the trick and I'd need another map. I'm no expert in this department so any help would be great. If I do need another map, anyone out there know the best place to get one? And anything else I may need to look out for?

 

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Brad

Does anyone log using the PLX SM-AFR with Access Tuner Race?

Link:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/PLX-Devices-SM-AFR-Sensor-Module/dp/B001G8LCCK]Amazon.com: PLX Devices SM-AFR iMFD Sensor Module - Wideband O2 Air Fuel Ratio: Automotive[/ame]

I do, and I'm sure others do as well.

Why?

I do, and I'm sure others do as well.

 

Why?

I've read about people having problems getting the Sm-AFR to communicate with ATR so I wanted to be sure it would work before I purchase one.

Do you like it? Did you have any problems getting it setup to run with ATR? Seems like the most versitile option to me. I plan to purchase one.

Thanks for the info.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edit: I did purchase the Sm-AFR and it works great with ATR. I followed the instructions on Cobb's website for setting it up with no problems.

Instructions: http://www.accessecu.com/accessport/subaru/How%20to%20get%20your%20PLX%20Devices%20iMFD%20WBO2%20to%20connect%20to%20the%20AccessTUNER%20software%20v1.00.pdf

Pardon my delay in response, my computers have been an issue.

I short, yes, I definitely like my PLX SM-AFR WBO2 as well as their SM-DM5 AFR meter that I rely on daily. Neither have posed a problem, and their results can be relied on absolutely.

Haven't messed with ST for a long time so forgettting. I have one of the old original Cobb Access Tuners.

- Is the original ST (2005) the same as the TunerRace (I think around 2009) or are the maps not compatible? I had the "exe" program from TunerRace, and the disk for the originaly Street Tuner. Or to say it another way, should I run ST or TunerRace on my new laptop with old AP and old style files?

Just bought an AP and wanted to install stg 1 91 oct map on my 05 LGT but noticed that its stated ' STOCK

INTAKE SYSTEM, and STOCK INTAKE FILTER ONLY.' I have an AEM CAI installed on my LGT and was wondering would the map still work?

Just bought an AP and wanted to install stg 1 91 oct map on my 05 LGT but noticed that its stated ' STOCK

INTAKE SYSTEM, and STOCK INTAKE FILTER ONLY.' I have an AEM CAI installed on my LGT and was wondering would the map still work?

Absolutely, positively, NOT. The AEM CAI requires a distinctly different MAF calibration. Using the Stock Intake map with the AEM CAI (or most any other intake for that matter) can/will result in running lean enough to damage your engine.

Not sure if I'm searching with the correct words to answer my question, but I can't seem to find an answer.

I currently have an AP v2b installed on my car by my tuner who has a pump map and e85 map stored on it. Let's say my tuner stored both maps in AccessTUNER Pro (ATP) format which would mean they are locked, which is fine.

I would like to install AccessTUNER Race (ATR), but would like to still use my tuners maps on my car. All I would like to do is data log with my Zeitronix ZT-2 WBO2 which I can do through ATR. But, can I "re-flash" my tuner's ATP maps back onto my car after I install ATR?

I would eventually also like to do an e-tune through Infamous1 which is why I would like to log the ZT-2 through ATR. That way I can send him one file with the WB02 already on it instead of doing two files with the WB02 on a second file through my Zeitronix's logging software.

I'm looking to see what's the most power people have recorded while in stage 2? I want to set my car up for the most power possible but keep things stage 2.

I have seen people mention dynos with numbers around 290whp 310TQ but I've never seen if that was the most put down on record and what the best setup will be to get me the most reliable power.

I'm looking to see what's the most power people have recorded while in stage 2? I want to set my car up for the most power possible but keep things stage 2.

 

I have seen people mention dynos with numbers around 290whp 310TQ but I've never seen if that was the most put down on record and what the best setup will be to get me the most reliable power.

Then get ready to spend a BUNCH of money.

Once the downpipe has been replaced and the car Properly Tuned, the bulk of any Stg2 has been achieved. From there the returns get progressively lower, and the costs get progressively higher.

If you have the time and money, compile a list of every option anyone has ever used for a Stg2 setup. Decide which ones you want.

Since you are in the "Tuning" forum, and the Street Tuner/Access Tuner Race Discussion Thread, can it be assumed you will be tuning these things yourself? I hope so. Because after that almost plug-n-play Stg2 step tuning the bits to maintain that "reliability" you also want becomes paramount... and if you have others do it, very expensive.

In the end, regardless of what you do with it, there will be less than 10% difference between your well implemented but basic Stg2 and any other one regardless of how many parts you throw at it. Ethanol will make more power, but it will cost you fuel upgrades and tuning... at a minimum.

Reliable. That's the kicker. A Stage2 car done properly is arguably at the edge of that mythical slope. Beyond that point "built motor" waits.

 

Reliable. That's the kicker. A Stage2 car done properly is arguably at the edge of that mythical slope. Beyond that point "built motor" waits.

What would you consider to be the best way to go stage 2 and be as reliable as possible, say for a DD?

Stage 2 itself does not consist of much besides intake exhaust and a tune, so what else would make it better?

What would you consider to be the best way to go stage 2 and be as reliable as possible, say for a DD?

Stage 2 itself does not consist of much besides intake exhaust and a tune, so what else would make it better?

A new downpipe is the one mandatory part before the tune. Add the intake, but understand each one needs tuned to the car it's on. Intakes have other considerations as well that should be fully understood before chosing one.

That said, for the most reliable possible, only the downpipe is needed... and then the tune. If you're willing to ride herd on what an intake introduces, which for optimum reliability should be a part of any driver,s responsibility anyway, you can minimize the negatives an intake brings. Either case requirs monitoring and logging your car. Regularly.

But understand... once you change that downpipe and flash the ECU, you've crossed a line. You don't want to be caught with your pants down over that line, and the best way to do that is to always ensure your car's performance is either KNOCK FREE, or within established boundaries. If you do not keep on top of your tune by logging and analysis you are betting you can get away without it... betting a motor.

IMO, that downpipe and that super tune should have come on the car new.

yeah i absolutely agree with what you are saying about the tune. as far as the intake goes i was referring to the cobb sf intake which is what the OTS maps are tuned for. Now i know the OTS maps for the AP are not perfect but they are a pretty safe tune for basic bolt ons that are required for stage 2.

The only additional part I have is a grimmspeed EBCS, which seems to be a good addition to help keep boost where it should be. Other than suspension/brake upgrades I'm not sure what else I can do for power/reliability, and I dont want to do too much since its my DD I have a swapped RS thats my toy.

This is just my first time using an AP and I am unfamiliar with the do's and dont's of them.

yeah i absolutely agree with what you are saying about the tune. as far as the intake goes i was referring to the cobb sf intake which is what the OTS maps are tuned for. Now i know the OTS maps for the AP are not perfect but they are a pretty safe tune for basic bolt ons that are required for stage 2.

 

The only additional part I have is a grimmspeed EBCS, which seems to be a good addition to help keep boost where it should be. Other than suspension/brake upgrades I'm not sure what else I can do for power/reliability, and I dont want to do too much since its my DD I have a swapped RS thats my toy.

 

This is just my first time using an AP and I am unfamiliar with the do's and dont's of them.

I would feel deaf and blind without my AP. I log every mile I drive, and I review them when I'm done for the day. Takes only minutes.

Over the years my AP has gone from a Pouch Potatoe in the glove compartment to a full time resident on my dash. A lot of time has been spent determining its best location... and its mounting. With it I keep track of, and record, everything important going on. With it always in view and near at hand I can select my choices as safely and easily as using the radio.

Cobb's current crop of OTS tunes are far superior to those of earlier times, for sure. You just have to keep on top of it, nevertheless.

See but this is me when I am looking at the data log:

jubsdvjlkrwvb;fbnsLVB --

I am trying to learn though, I actually installed it on Sunday and while test driving I logged a 3rd gear pull from about 3k to just before red at WOT. If I can figure out how to Ill post it on here so maybe I can get a better understanding.

See but this is me when I am looking at the data log:

 

jubsdvjlkrwvb;fbnsLVB --

 

 

I am trying to learn though, I actually installed it on Sunday and while test driving I logged a 3rd gear pull from about 3k to just before red at WOT. If I can figure out how to Ill post it on here so maybe I can get a better understanding.

This should help: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/ecu-tuning-performance-electronics/247335-looking-information-how-analyze-my-ap-datalogs.html

Are you using a trustable wideband to get your afrs? Even the stock 02 should show 11.XX under boosted conditions during WOT. A decent intake leak pre turbo can cause AFR's to skyrocket during a pull.

If the pump is in good condition and your not seeing any misfires from a faulty injector its probably not fuel related mechanically at a stage 2 level.

Did you install the fuel pump because of the lean issue or just as a replacement? If you replaced it during modification and are running into a lean condition under boost you should make sure the pump is seated properly in the housing and it might not be able to keep up if its not sealed up in the basket.

Hope that helps.

oh btw what modifications are on the car?

Dave