2010 clutch slipping. I need a replacement

I am in need of a new clutch. I have about 88K on the OEM and it's starting to slip when I get into boost in 3rd and 4th gear. If I'm gentle I can slowly accelerate and it will hold, but those times when I need to make a quick pass, the revs quickly climb past 4500 rpm then it catches. I have a Cryotune Stage 1 map. I am very happy with it (Thanks Dave!) So I don't plan on doing any further upgrade in the power department in the near future. So I have started shopping around for a new clutch kit. So I tried doing a search on the forum.

 

I want to say this forum (5th Gen) is awesome. So many great posts even though they are all over the place. Some threads are dead, others no one is posting in or the thread is closed. :spin:

 

Here's what I came up with.

 

For sure I am going with the TSK-3 kit (on sale for $169.95) this is just cheap insurance IMHO.

 

I just cant decide on a Exedy Stage 1 kit ($520) with the Exedy light weight flywheel ($324.05) for the 06+ WRX

 

or

 

Future proof with Competition Clutch Stage 2 clutch & flywheel kit ($752)

 

or

 

Stick with the OEM Exedy clutch ($280) & flywheel ($323)

 

If you have one of the above kits can you share your experience? driveability? Chatter?

 

If you don't have one of the above kits which do you have and how do you like it?

 

Any advice is appreciated.

The only thing I'd suggest is to keep your existing flywheel and just resurface it. It's already a single mass flywheel, so you probably don't need to buy a new one. Your installer should be able to determine if the flywheel can be resurfaced.

 

If your car is a daily driver, I'd also suggest not "upgrading" to a lightweight flywheel. From the experience of others, it looks like daily driving and especially driving in traffic can be real chore.

 

As for the clutches themselves, I'm not really familiar with any of those besides the OEM one. So, *shrugs*

You have 88k miles on your oem one. Why change what has worked for so long.

 

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Shoot us a PM, can get you good prices on what you decide.

 

-Brian

I thought the Southbend clutch is what everyone was swooning over these days? Take that and pair it with your OEM resurfaced unit since you probably don't want a lightweight one on your daily.

I thought the Southbend clutch is what everyone was swooning over these days? Take that and pair it with your OEM resurfaced unit since you probably don't want a lightweight one on your daily.

 

This is what I'm running and I have no complaints. And I always have to mention the TSK-3 kit. Tranquil should start paying me something

You have 88k miles on your oem one. Why change what has worked for so long.

 

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cuz DP = more powa. possibly he doesnt want the clutch to slip when dyno tuning it. Though I'd figure at stage 2, I dunno how much longer the stock clutch would keep holding

cuz DP = more powa. possibly he doesnt want the clutch to slip when dyno tuning it. Though I'd figure at stage 2, I dunno how much longer the stock clutch would keep holding

There are those of us running stage 2 without slipping on almost as many miles as he has on his oem. And then there are those with aftermarket clutch failures.

 

And then there's that price tag...

 

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You have 88k miles on your oem one. Why change what has worked for so long.

 

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When I bought the LGT used the clutch was already stiff. A lot stiffer than my 2012 base model 6spd Legacy. I chalked it up to the previous owners lived in San Francisco and the hills there did a number on the clutch. I've always felt something was off with the clutch. Who knows. Maybe the previous owners replaced it and I already have a Southbend in there.

 

GTEASER helped me with the damper delete install. That helped with feeling the engagement point. It just seems like it's not right and now it's making me anxious when I am in boost and the clutch slips.

When I bought the LGT used the clutch was already stiff. A lot stiffer than my 2012 base model 6spd Legacy. I chalked it up to the previous owners lived in San Francisco and the hills there did a number on the clutch. I've always felt something was off with the clutch. Who knows. Maybe the previous owners replaced it and I already have a Southbend in there.

 

The 2.5GT clutch does feel heavier than 2.5i. I was surprised at this as well since at least among the replacement parts, they share the same flywheel and clutch and only the throw out bearing is different.

 

edit - I double checked and the clutch part number is not the same.

Edited December 2, 2016 by dgoodhue
correct my incorrect statement about the clutch being the same

This is what I'm running and I have no complaints. And I always have to mention the TSK-3 kit. Tranquil should start paying me something

 

I thought the Southbend clutch is what everyone was swooning over these days? Take that and pair it with your OEM resurfaced unit since you probably don't want a lightweight one on your daily.

 

I am looking at the Southbend FJK1001-HD- OFE.

 

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ecommerce/FJK1001-HD-OFE.cfm?item_id=4269

The 2.5GT clutch does feel heavier than 2.5i. I was surprised at this as well since at least among the replacement parts, they share the same flywheel and clutch and only the throw out bearing is different.

 

I had the privilege to drive GTEASER's LGT and the clutch pedal on his was comparable to my 2.5i base. This clutch it a lot heavier.

I just got off the phone with an independent Subaru shop here in NorCal and they recommend using the OEM clutch and flywheel. And didn't recommend the TSK3 kit.

 

Also I couldn't bring the parts to them. The would have to order it all.

That's the one I have bookmarked for when I inevitably get to this point myself.

 

As far as clutch weight, it looks like the slave cylinders are different- there's one that's used on the '07+ LGT/OBXT and the '08-current WRX, and a different one that's used on Foresters (turbo and N/A), '05 and '06 LGT/OBXT, the BRZ, '05+ N/A Legacy and Outback, and the '17 Impreza. I know there's a damper in the one on the GT (should restrict flow on pedal up, free-flow on pedal down), I wonder if that introduces enough of a restriction to make the pedal feel heavier? Other than the '11 WRX I test drove briefly, I haven't driven any other MT Subarus, so I don't really have any way to verify those suspicions.

I'm running the southbend stg2 daily clutch with no slipping issues

I just got off the phone with an independent Subaru shop here in NorCal and they recommend using the OEM clutch and flywheel. And didn't recommend the TSK3 kit.

 

Also I couldn't bring the parts to them. The would have to order it all.

 

Who? FW Motorsports?

I think my clutch is heavy as well, it did feel a bit lighter after trying to teach my wife to drive it...but afaik the 2.5i and GT have different clutches and pressure plates, if you order by the VIN number both parts are what goes into the wrx as well. I used the part numbers from subaruonlineparts to compare.

 

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Who? FW Motorsports?

 

exactly.

 

Here's what I wanted to do:

 

replace clutch and flywheel

while the flywheel is off possibly replace the rear main seal

install the TSK3 on the transmission housing

 

 

I was told that the OEM clutch and flywheel should be fine since I didn't have any major performance mods. Just a Stage 1 tune.

the rear main seal probably didn't need to be replaced. But if they inspected it and it needed they would just charge for the part.

 

didnt recomment the TSK since the transmission case isn't damaged. they would install if i really wanted to. But they advise the clutch feel would be different and not OEM.

 

That was the jist of the conversation.

 

Since they work on Subaru's all day, I wouldn't have a reason not to take their advice. But I have you all and I may check with a different shop.

I'm running the southbend stg2 daily clutch with no slipping issues

 

I second the Southbend stg 2 daily clutch. Replaced my oem one at 53,000 miles due to slippage. Resurfaced the oem flywheel, they only had to take .003" off which is roughly a sheet a paper thickness. First replacement clutch came with some rust on the pressure plate, Southbend overnighted a whole new kit the next day. Great company to work with. I did not do the TSK kit with it. Clutch was real light until broke in (about 3,000 miles on it now) to me it feels about stock stiffness now, maybe slightly stiffer but almost unnoticeable. Not sure if anyone else had this issue but my mechanic said there were some loose bolts and a missing bolt on the old clutch when he removed it.

That's the one I have bookmarked for when I inevitably get to this point myself.

 

As far as clutch weight, it looks like the slave cylinders are different- there's one that's used on the '07+ LGT/OBXT and the '08-current WRX, and a different one that's used on Foresters (turbo and N/A), '05 and '06 LGT/OBXT, the BRZ, '05+ N/A Legacy and Outback, and the '17 Impreza. I know there's a damper in the one on the GT (should restrict flow on pedal up, free-flow on pedal down), I wonder if that introduces enough of a restriction to make the pedal feel heavier? Other than the '11 WRX I test drove briefly, I haven't driven any other MT Subarus, so I don't really have any way to verify those suspicions.

 

I was told that the fingers get hardend over time and that's what causes the heavy clutch feel. As I mentioned before, the previous owner lived in San Francisco. So if they happened to ride the clutch or use it to hold it in place while on a hill could have caused the hardening and premature failure. :spin:

That's a good point, work hardening is a real thing. You usually have to apply enough force to plastically (permanently) deform the metal for that to happen, though. Fatigue hardening is also a real thing, apparently, and the couple abstracts I've read seem to suggest that it's a concept that goes a little ways beyond what was covered in the couple of materials classes I took in school.

Just preparing for the inevitable future as my clutch is begging to occasionally slip in high gear pulls. Just need confirmation that the Southbend Stage 2 kit will work with the '12 LGT (pn. K70406-HD-O)

 

Let me know and if not I appreciate any recommendations, thanks!

Just preparing for the inevitable future as my clutch is begging to occasionally slip in high gear pulls. Just need confirmation that the Southbend Stage 2 kit will work with the '12 LGT (pn. K70406-HD-O)

 

Let me know and if not I appreciate any recommendations, thanks!

I'm running their stage 2 daily clutch: http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ecommerce/FJK1001-HD-O.cfm?item_id=4268

 

Be sure to search for WRX/2.5/2006-2014 (TURBO) when you are on the southbend site. The ones listed under legacy won't fit our gen

As much as I would like to try out the Southbend. The current life expectancy for my clutch is very short. Driving on the freeway during rush hour today was downright scary. I felt like I had no control. I am afraid to do any heavy acceleration in any gear. What made it worse was my teenager was in the car with me.

 

I am taking the recommendation of my local independent subaru shop. I am going to stick with the OEM and replace the flywheel. The cost is also an issue. I can replace the OEM clutch, SMFW and TOB for about the same price as the Southbend clutch i was interested in. This is my DD. I need the clutch as effortless as possible. I am hopeful the clutch pedal will be as easy as my base model 2015 2.5i Legacy was.

 

Thanks all for your input.

You will be happy with the factory clutch again, especially in traffic. I need the stage two, but trust me every day I wish I was able to have a factory clutch.