6MT Master Swap Thread

All you need to do is drill out the hole in the bottom of the knob far enough for the reverse lockout to fit up inside. Measure the diameter of the reverse lockout and then how deep it is to the flare and then drill out the MOMO to that diameter and that depth.

The threads go really far up inside so this should work.

I was planning on doing this but just never did so I purchased a Cobb Knob instead.

I wrote up someplace on the forum exactly what to do, so if you look at that and look at the pictures of Hammers drill job on his knob you will see just exactly how to do it.

I would take it to a machine shop and have them do it or use a drill press of some sort.

Hope that helps

ok guys. I'm picking up a wrx that has a 6spd swap done to it so I can swap trannys out of it into my lgt. Is there any stamps in the tranny to tell what year it came out of? Thanks

Super 6 speed decoder ring:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1225160

Quoting a couple things from earlier in the thread...

For clarification, the stock mount will "work". As in the car will drive. The issue I found was that when getting into first or reverse I had lots of shuddering and clunking from the rear diff. Initially I thought it was my clutch but after narrowing the clunk down to the diff, I looked up the part number, saw it was different and ordered/installed it. In the short trip from one shop to the body shop for other work, I had no clunks. I will do more testing after the car returns.

I used the R160 mount. You can tell because unlike the diff itself, the crossmember looks exactly as dirty as the stuff around it:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/6MT/DiffInstalled.jpg

 

I had some klunks when turning sharp corners and accelerating, but those went away when I added LSD juice to the Extra-S in the diff. I still get some klunks when drag racing but not as much. So I wonder if switching mounts would get rid of the last of my klunks.

 

The first time I launched, I was sure I'd blown an axle or three. Vrooom-screeech-BAM-BAM-BAM-BAM-BAM! By the time "holy shit was that an axle?" went through my mind, I was in 2nd gear and still pulling hard, so I kept going. I asked my girlfriend to watch for wheel-hop and she said there was none, so I figure it's the diff banging into something. Or maybe the transmission itself, but it sounds like it's coming from the back of the car.

Mine looked just exactly like this and it was a new one for a spec B.

 

Spec B rear diff mount part number is

41310ag040

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/Spec%20B%20R180%20Mount/web.jpg

A couple months ago I started getting clunk noises every time I started from a stop.

Based on the posts above, I ordered the spec B rear diff mount, and I put it in last weekend, and it fixed the clunk noises. I gave it a couple of hard launches this evening and those were clunk free as well. EDIT: The clunks came back after a a while. I'm not sure exactly where they're coming from.

Huge thanks to Citka for all the help with the installation, by the way!

The stock diff bracket just barely contacts the underside of the diff, basically right in the center, between those two bolts that come out on the bottom. The spec B mount has a slightly wider and deeper notch around the 'spine' on the underside of the differential, so there is no contact, and no noise. I think that when I first installed the R160 bracket, the fit was tight enough that nothing moved around except when launching hard. But after enough of that abuse, some play developed, and every time the diff moved it would clunk.

Bracket flex might have been a factor as well, as the R180 mount seems quite a bit stiffer around those two bolts on the underside - it's very stout piece of metal.

I'm going to update the first post to point to this one, since between the three of us we've now got confirmed documentation about which part to use, and why.

So what's the deal with the 5mt clutch vs the 6mt clutch. I've mostly heard that you can't reuse it, but this thread over on NASIOC contradicts that.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=872902

05-09 LGT clutches are push-to-disengage, and 04-?? 6MT clutches are pull-to-disengage (04-08 at least, maybe 04-current, I don't know). That guy's WRX was probably pull-style as well.

You might be able to reuse an LGT flywheel and clutch but I'm pretty sure you'd need a pressure plate that moves in the right direction, and at that point I can't help. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't.

The 6MT clutches tend to be stronger than the 5MT equivalents so compare specs before you make up your mind.

So what's the deal with the 5mt clutch vs the 6mt clutch. I've mostly heard that you can't reuse it, but this thread over on NASIOC contradicts that.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=872902

05-09 LGT clutches are push-to-disengage, and 04-?? 6MT clutches are pull-to-disengage (04-08 at least, maybe 04-current, I don't know). That guy's WRX was probably pull-style as well.

 

You might be able to reuse an LGT flywheel and clutch but I'm pretty sure you'd need a pressure plate that moves in the right direction, and at that point I can't help. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't.

 

The 6MT clutches tend to be stronger than the 5MT equivalents so compare specs before you make up your mind.

There are 5 speed pull type clutches. That is likely the ones you've heard can be used.

Our 5speeds our push type, as NSFW mentioned, but no, the flywheel cannot be used with the 6 speed plate. Different diameter and bolt patterns.

12 pages of....

i cant seem to find the simple way of doing this. theres not one post with all the answers. there scattered all over the place... can the 1st post be updated with the correct info? (or more options listed for the 05+, not just newer legacy's)

i have an 05 LGT with 4.11 gearing and want to see what my options are on what 6sp to get. (i want lsd front and rear)

basically looking for an 06-07 sti trans/rear. but after reading thru this thread. idk if its a 3.90 gearing or 3.54 gearing. after researching i find the 06-07 both have 3.54 gearing. but here you guys say no. so this gets confusing trying to find the right info without getting to technical.

so if wanna go the simple route, i can just swap in a 06 STI 6spd/rear diff/dss rear axles/clutch (which is 3.90 or 3.54 final drive?) and need nothing else?

if i wanna do it all.

07 STI complete drivetrain - trans/rear diff/clutch (which is 3.54 gearing) also the hubs/axles/brakes... correct? will my stock driveshaft fit or do i need to replace that to?

am i missing anything? do i need the STI brake booster and master/slave cylinder for either trans option?

now what if later on i wanna do a 5x114 swap. which setup is best to go with?

Ill answer the one portion (or portions) that Im 95% positive about, only because Im in the information gathering process myself and dont want to misinform.

Your going to need an older legacy EAT iirc drive shaft (which is shorter than our oem) due to the decrease in length between the 6spd tailshaft and rear diff versus the 5spd. Or a custom drive shaft with easily serviceable u-joints, as I come to find out that none of the oem shafts are rebuildable? (someone correct me if Im wrong)

Also, as you most likely already know, you'll need spec b rear axles which are splined for the r180, as well as your oem 5x100 hubs. Unless your planning on swapping hubs which you eluded to.

Dont think you need sti brake booster MC or SC, but clutch SC maybe.

Dont quote me.

thank you so much for that. i think the custom driveshaft is a better way to go to. ill probly get dss axles versus spec b axles. i dont want axles breaking on me after this.

basically right now im hunting for a stock 05 lgt trans to hold me over till i can find a 6sp. or just keep looking for an entire 07 drivetrain.