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5th Gen Legacy - Interior Mods


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JDM cupholder - requires three parts

Cover: 92122AJ100 (silver trim part)

Boot Assy: 92123AJ000 (necessary because the corners on the JDM trim are different than USDM)

Cupholder Assy (w/lens): 92134AJ000 (the lens is in case you want to add interior illumination)

 

For the shift boot, I did black leather with silver stitching and a black perforated center panel.

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Edited by DrD123
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First, many thanks to Coppertone for steering me towards the amp and sub for this project.

 

So I set out to install a subwoofer unit that takes up NO additional space in the car. The install is to augment the OEM head unit and speakers.

 

The install was a birthday present for my daughter who drives the 2007 Outback.

 

Have ended up with is a common solution for at least the OB and Legacy platforms, that spans multiple generations. Whoo!

 

Backgound:

There are two options that I focused in on; under seat sub and wheel well sub. Had initially been leaning towards under seat subs from Kicker, sound ordinance and kenwood.

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html?tp=114

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html?tp=114

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSCSW10/Kenwood-KSC-SW10.html?tp=114

 

The limitation here, of course with this setup is enclosure volume. The under seat amplified sub system is essentially pushing a small sub with no lower frequency gain contribution from an enclosure. Pouring through the many threads, there was a possible height issue for the kicker (number one pick). Although a lesser problem on the 5th gen, the undeseat subs installed in the 2007 OB would be kicked by a passenger in the rear seat. Typically for an adult in the rear seat, the front seat must be moved forward to gain leg room.

 

I stumbled upon this cool amplified sub at Crutchfield.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_023GTPW692/Blaupunkt-6902A.html?tp=114

Had to use Google to translate a bunch of German posts, but the reviews were really good. Thing is built like a Panzer. Since there is ft3 volume to this enclosure, the specs on this sub reach down to 20hz. The problem here is that the height of this is under 7". This means that the spare tire needs to be removed. Thus for this effort, the Blaupunkt is a non starter. There are many DYI posts that create a fiberglass enclosure using the trunk to create the mold. Again, can't use the spare tire with these concepts.

 

The simple aha moment for this project came when thinking about the fiberglass enclosures and wondering why it was needed since essentially just a cover is needed; the wheel well is the enclosure, duh. Did a rough measurements. The volume is alittle bigger than 25" x 25" x 3.5" or a volume of at least 1.3 cubic feet - not too shabby. Adding the rough volume withing the spare rim (less where it mounts on the hub) is roughly another 0.67 ft3 so crap, the total volume with the spare tire is 1.9 ft3. In reality, it's got to be a little over 2.0 ft3. The difference is volume is simple; keep the spare tire foam insert in the tire (that has the jack and tire iron ...) for a volume of 1.3 cubic feet, or remove it for 2.0 ft3.

 

This drove the selection to a shallow mount woofer and compact amp.

 

Calling Coppertone, calling Coppertone ..... Yes, I contacted Coppertone to see what electronics he had in his arsenal of new or slightly used cache of audio electronics. Well, as it turns out, we settled in on two components to get the job done:

 

Massive Audio Nano BiT BX2 Class D dual channel Amp. OMG this thing is small (6.3" x 5.0" x 1.6") For this application, bringing the amp for a singe sub puts out 480 watts RMS. This BLOWS away the under seat offerings @ 150 Watts RMS or three times the power out.

http://massiveaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BX2-300x300.png%5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//massiveaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/BX2_rca_Square1-300x300.png

 

The BX2 has all of the standard offerings - RCA inputs, hi-level (speaker) inputs, remote power on, auto turn-on from hi-level inputs, fused an thermal protection, adjustable low pass filter, bass boost, And it's a class D amp with circuit cards meeting Mil-Specs.

 

Coppertone paired the BX2 amp with a Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1200F. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?tp=111

http://www.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/fixedscale/400/300/products/2007/113/x113XW1200-f.jpeghttp://www2.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/fixedscale/400/300/products/2007/113/x113XW1200-o.jpeg

 

This sub an efficient shallow mount woofer. Up to 350 Watts RMS (1400W peak), sensitivity 91dB, 30-700 Hz response, minimum enclosure volume of 0.8 cubic feet.

 

The sub would be mounted underneath a 30" x 27" plywood rectangle. The 07 Outback was the restriction for the size (Attachment 1) Also cut out a bottom piece ( that can rest on the tire.) The pieces two are connected by 1/4" carriage bolts. (Attachment 2) The bottom piece rests on the tire. Currently, I have removed the bottom piece until the open diameter is increased from 12" to the 18" diameter of the spare tire rim.

 

The next two attachments are fitted in the 07 OB and in the 2010 LGT. It may not be visible in the pic but the 2010 wheel well is slightly wider and there is a small gap (less than 1/2" gap on the sides. Note1: Used 1/2" plywood to leave about a 3/8" gap between the top of the plywood to the OEM carpeted wheel well access cover. The gap leaves enough room to support a noise dampening layer under the carpet.

 

Finally, purchased some speaker grille material to stretch over the top of the wood and staple underneath.

 

 

 

Install:

 

Took the electronic to a local shop to run the power wire and hook up the electronics. The fifth attachment shows the sub, amp and line leveler. There are inline fuses at the battery for power and for the +12v remote turn on signal. The reasoning to mount it all together is portability. The shop used a Molex connector (attachment 6) laying around to disconnect audio and power lines from a single harness. Install a harness in the LGT and this sub moves from one car to another in minutes.

 

Sound Review:

All I can say is this sub rocks. It has transformed the OEM system above expectations. There is some really good extension down low. I don't have a meter to check it out, but maybe there is an Android app that can show the shape of the freq spectrum

 

What is left .... vibration and noise isolation. Great link: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Vibration isolation. Upon research, vibration isolation seems to be quite an emotional topic. There are many companies out there. The only critical thing to remember is to NOT get a product with asphalt filler. Butyl rubber dampening layer. What is important here is to get as much rubber as possible wit little to no filler. It is the rubber particles that convert vibration to heat. Another important attribute is the containing layer. This layer is typically made of aluminum 4mm or greater. Vibration itself is dampened in corners. 25-33% of a flat area. Many go wild and with 100% coverage, but that's just not needed.

 

Picked up some Murdermat MDK as a balance of specs and cost. (Attachment 7) 79mm butyl rubber (99.9%) dampening layer, 8mm T6061 high grade aluminum constraint layer, and an added bonus thin clear vinyl layer to reduce cut fingers. Of course it remains too cold outside (no garage) to install. I bought enough for both cars, but the focus will be on the LGT for vibration isolation of the TBE.

 

Noise isolation. OK, so vibration isolation alone is not the full solution. A barrier layer is essential to block the noise from outside (and keep the desired nose inside with out frequency summing or cancellation from outside noise sources. Mass loaded vinyl (1lb/ft2) with a closed foam separation layer does the trick. Crap, the stuff for the auto industry seems expensive. I took a different tactic and looked into what is used in buildings and home theaters. I whittled it down between two companies and found a carpet underlayment with the foam separation adhered to the MLV. This stuff can be ordered by the foot with a 4.5' width. I picked up 8' of it (Attachment 8). May be able to cut this out today. Again, the LGT is simpler than the 07 OB to install.

 

Will focus on the trunk first, then may look into vibration isolation on the doors. Did not want to go too crazy. I have a sound meter and will take some before/after averages of level changes.

 

Quick update

 

Filled the truck with five cases of water and groceries. The based was attenuated, not muffled. Turned up the bass setting from -3 to 0 on the head unit. That was enough to get the bass back. So far, still good.

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Edited by Zee199969
adds for fuze info
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  • 1 month later...

Was looking for a good strong solution to mount my AccessPort. I mated a Proto Tuning Tool Mount with a few RAM Mount components. This is what I have come up with.

 

It's nice and solid for one handed operation.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Quick install guide for adding the STi aluminum pedals and ProSports aluminum dead pedal.

 

Brake and Clutch:

Brake and clutch pedals are very straightforward. Pull off the OEM rubber cover on the two pedals. Slide the STi pedal on from the bottom (there's a clip/hook on the bottom of the pedal that should seat firmly). Put the bracket on the top (behind the pedal) and use the provided bolts (2.5mm hex wrench needed) and nuts (7mm wrench/socket needed) to secure the pedal to the bracket. Nice and easy.

 

Gas Pedal

Gas pedal is a little more difficult. BY FAR the easiest route is to simply remove your gas pedal assembly and add the STi pedal while the whole assembly is not bolted to the car. To do this, simply unhook the wiring clip (a pinch/pull clip) at the top (see picture below) and then remove the 2 12mm nuts that hold the assembly to the frame/firewall (again, see pictures below). Once you've removed the assembly, install should be simple. Slide the STi pedal over the OEM one, secure it to the provided bracket with 2 small bolts (2.5mm hex wrench again), slide the long bolt through the holes on the pedal, add the sleeve, cap it off with the 5.5mm capped nut on the other side. Reattach wiring clip, bolt pedal assembly back on using the 2 x 12mm nuts. Done.

 

ProSport Dead Pedal

Pretty simple, if a bit tedious. There are 2 push pins that hold the rubber OEM dead pedal in. Use a screwdriver to pry them up a bit, and some pliers to pull them out. The tedious part is removing the OEM rubber dead pedal, as it is glued to the carpet! Annoying. I found that a couple of chisels (pictured below) helped a bit, as well as just some brute force. It's kind of a pain, but not difficult. Once that's out, just put the PS Dead pedal in place, and secure it with the 2 push pins. You MAY want to glue the dead pedal down, but mine seems to be held in place OK with just the pushpins, so I'm not going to do that at this time. YMMV.

 

Whole job shouldn't take more than 30minutes! A little awkward crawling around in the footwell on the drivers side, but not a hard job! Good luck!

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Edited by pfoyle
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  • 5 months later...

Update: I think I figured out the best amount of polyfill, I used 1lb of Acosta-stuf, I sprayed 3m adhesive to the walls of the box and I applied the polyfill to the sides and floor of the box. The result is a great improvement from the Walmart stuff thrown in the box. I also ordered a soundstream sound processor to help strengthen the bass. I can't wait till the sub breaks in to see what this system can really do.

 

I just finished my sub install on my 2011 legacy and I thought I would post up info and pics. I wanted to first thank minuccims because my inspiration came from his sub build. I wanted to keep my trunk space but I wanted a little more bass on my h/k system. I have the limited 3.6r legacy with kenwood navigation and Harman kardon sound system. I wanted to keep everything but add a sub, so after hours of research I have a strong SQ system, this is not a SPL system, if you want your ears to bleed this probably wont do it but if you want to keep your trunk then read on.

 

First I got the amp, crutchfield had a Alpine Mrp-m500 on scratch and dent for 111 shipped. I wanted something small but I also prefer big name brands so I couldn't go with any of the more expensive smaller name small amps. the Alpine is about 10"x10" so its not to bad.

 

Next I had to figure out the sub, I was between the JL 13TW5V2-2, the Alpine SWR-T12, and the MTX FPR12-02. the JL was the best option for install because it has the smallest mounting depth at 2.63" and the largest surface area with the 13" woofer but I was on a budget and at $400 it was out of my price range. next was the Alpine, ive always been a fan of type r's but even they are $300 so my next choice was the MTX. the MTX is on par with the type r and almost half the price at $180, plus it comes in a 2 ohm, the type r only comes in 4 ohm. I got the MTX for 170 shipped from online car stereo with a discount they were running at the time.

 

I bought a knuconcepts 4awg wire kit from amazon for $33. they are great wires and pretty cheap compared to other good companies. the power and ground wires are pretty straight forward, there is a large unused grommet by the brake booster, I mounted the ground to the rear strut tower. the pre-amp and remote wire locations are under the front passengers seat, I will attach a pic from another forum with the locations and a pic of my wire work. the Alpine amp has line level inputs so I didn't use a LOC, unfortunately the amp doesn't has a remote volume control so I got a inline volume control and I mounted it to the center console next to the heated seat switches.

 

the last part was the box, I used 3/4" MDF, the dimensions are 23" X 25" X 4 1/2" I cut off the top corners of the box so that it would fit in the tire well, I marked 4" from the top corner across and then down then I cut from mark to mark, I did that on both top corners. next I cut the side pieces about 2 3/4" wide, for the top corners you have to cut the angles at 22.5 degrees if you want your joints to be flush. next I did the screws caulk and cut the hole, that's all pretty easy to figure out, I used a good bit of poly fill but im still experimenting with different brands and amounts.

 

for my build I wanted to keep the old trunk liner so that I could go back and forth if I wanted to so I had to make a new liner. Subaru uses a corrugated plastic with carpet glued on so I did the same. I got the corrugated plastic from lowes by the plexiglass, it was about $8 for a 30" x 36" sheet I needed 2 for the job. next was the carpet, good luck finding a perfect match, apparently Japanese colors are not available in America so I used the closest thing I could find, charcoal grey, its a pretty close match. I matched up the corrugated to the original liner and made my marks, cut it out and line it up to make sure you are good. next you should cut your perforations so that you can bend it like the Subaru liner, if you use a razor blade you can cut the top layer of plastic and it will bend like the Subaru liner. next I duct taped the liner pieces together and positioned them on top of my sub box, you need them to hang over the front of the box about 1" to account for the lip on the back of the trunk. I used locktite glue and wood staples to secure it to the box, now cut out your sub hole. next lay out your carpet, I used 3M adhesive spray, cover it up as best you can and once again cut out your sub hole.

 

that's pretty much it, I added handles so that I could get the box in and out of the trunk easier. I added a grill to protect the sub, I had a hard time finding one that would fit, not get hit by the sub, and provide adequate protection from things in the trunk. I ended up using a 15" waffle grill from a local car audio shop, the 12" was to small, I used spacers and secured it to the box in 8 places creating a good protection for the sub, I installed a quick connect in the line from the sub to the amp so that I can pull the sub out in a couple of minutes if I need to. the total weight added to the car is about 50lbs give or take, not to bad if you consider my other car has about 250lbs in it and this system actually sounds clearer and more enjoyable, my other system is more of a SPL setup. if anyone has any questions please ask and I will try to save you some of my headaches.

 

R386 (2010-2012):

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74326&thumb=1&d=1319103983

Inputs into the h/k amp (from the HU's four speaker outputs)

 

Code:

____ | | 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Harness R386 (2010-2011, and 2012)

 

Code:

Pin Function --- --------------------

1 (NC)

2 Front Left Door – (from HU pin 7)

3 Front Left Door + (from HU pin 8)

4 Front Right Door – (from HU pin 17)

5 Front Right Door + (from HU pin 18)

6 Shield for speaker inputs

7 (NC)

8 (NC)

9 (NC)

10 Ground

11 VSS input (for SVC)

12 Amp remote turn-on

13 (NC)

14 (NC)

15 (NC)

16 (NC)

17 Rear Left Door – (from HU pin 5)

18 Rear Left Door + (from HU pin 6)

19 (NC)

20 (NC)

21 (NC)

22 Rear Right Door – (from HU pin 15)

23 Rear Right Door + (from HU pin 16)

24 (NC)

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Edited by stevenc1703
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  • 4 weeks later...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-replace-wood-trim-silver-trim-186465.html?t=186465

 

Silver interior trim:

 

94218AJ05A - Front Left Door

94218AJ04A - Front Right Door

94228AJ05A - Rear Left Door

94228AJ04A - Rear Right Door

66077AJ00A - Glove Box

66076AJ02A - Right of Steering Column (small triangular piece)

66076AJ03A - Left of Steering Column

 

 

Carbon Fiber interior trim:

 

94218AJ09A - Front Left Door

94218AJ08A - Front Right Door

94228AJ19A - Rear Left Door

94228AJ18A - Rear Right Door

66077AJ06A - Glove Box

66076AJ07A - Right of Steering Column (small triangular piece)

66076AJ08A - Left of Steering Column

 

 

Wood interior trim:

 

94218AJ07A - Front Left Door

94218AJ06A - Front Right Door

94228AJ07A - Rear Left Door

94228AJ06A - Rear Right Door

66077AJ01A - Glove Box

66076AJ04A - Right of Steering Column (small triangular piece)

66076AJ05A - Left of Steering Column

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  • 3 weeks later...

Prova would be great, but the price (ugh).

I wonder if the stock 2015 WRX wheel is much cheaper though. I bet its at least $300-400.

 

As suggested by reeg420, I will take a look @ my brother's 2015 WRX, take some pics of the mounts, back of the wheel, etc.

 

I doubt it would be a PnP swap and the controls are fairly different, but who knows.

After all the work required to get it to fit and still functon, I bet the Prova wheels would be cheaper.

 

Where can you get it for $500? I think I recall seeing a vendor advertize them, right?

 

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Prova-D-Shaped-Steering-Wheel-Subaru-Legacy-2010-2011

 

Found some old GBs and sale threads:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/damd-steering-wheel-group-buy-05-2010-144618p9.html?highlight=prova+steering+wheel

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129004&highlight=prova+steering+wheel

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127557&highlight=prova+steering+wheel

Edited by Perscitus
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  • 2 weeks later...

No More Reverse Lockout Ring Clacking.

 

So I have been meaning to do this for a while, and it only took about 3 minutes, so I feel stoopid for not doing it sooner and putting up with an unnecessary annoying sound for waaaaay too long.

 

Have you ever noticed that the reverse lockout ring on our shifters clacks around when shifting, making for a very cheap, plasticy sound?

 

All you need is a piece of electrical tape, about 1.5" long. Remove the shift knob, wrap the tape around the metal portion of the shifter, sticky side out, and make sure it overlaps about 1/4" on itself. Slide it down the shifter into the reverse lockout ring about 3/4 of the way down the tape. This way if you want to pull the tape out and replace it, you have something to grab on to. Move the reverse lockout ring around to stick the tape to the ring. Reinstall shift knob. Enjoy quieter shifting experience.

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/15/edy5eme8.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Seat Bolster Mod

 

Stuff the bolsters on the sides of your seat bottoms for more support, and a better "bucket". Also helps prevent that hard lump in the seat from digging into your hip bones!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stuffing-drivers-seat-bolsters-231037.html

Edited by Zee199969
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  • 3 months later...

hey all, im looking to install a new radio in my car.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Outback-Navigation-Bluetooth-Touchscreen/dp/B00ARB6KHY/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1421851540&sr=1-1&keywords=2011+subaru+legacy&pebp=1421851503245&peasin=B00ARB6KHY]Amazon.com : For Subaru Legacy Outback 2011 7 inch Indash CAR DVD Player GPS Navigation Navi iPod Bluetooth HD Touchscreen TV Radio RDS FM PIP Free Map CD8961 : In Dash Vehicle Gps Units : Car Electronics[/ame] its from amazon, I was wondering if any one can help me with if this is good or bad and if good, what else do I need to purchase?

 

Thank you.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61dh-WXB66L._SL1001_.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

STi Wheel Mod for 2012-14 Legacy

 

Added an STi steering wheel today - you need two parts - the steering wheel and the back cover - you'll want the STi cover which doesn't have the cutouts for the paddle shifters (if you have a manual...) - since the '15+ WRX/STi have a switch assembly to control the screen in the combination meter (three button switch in the lower left corner of the steering wheel - same as on the '13+ Legacy/Outback) the back cover has a giant hole in it. You can leave it as is, or patch it. I chose to use the Legacy back cover to cut a patch and glue it in place. Also - since the airbag in the WRX/STi is short, the edge of the back cover is a little short (the area which is recessed in a bit so that when the airbag is on and the horn isn't pressed, you don't see into the wheel) I cut some small pieces off the Legacy back cover and glued them in place to extend the edge a little bit.

 

STi steering wheel is p/n 34312VA021VH, the 15/16 back cover is 34317VA000, and the 12-14 Legacy rear cover is 34317AJ02CVH

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Edited by Zee199969
added part numbers
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  • 1 month later...

obviously more expensive than those options but i have finally found exactly what i was looking for with the shift paddles. i had the stark and they were great but still a little too small for my taste...went with the ones from subispeed and i thought the fitment was terrible. finally pulled the trigger on these full replacement paddles from kenstyle and im in love! look great, solid pieces and the perfect size imo!!

 

Where did you find those? I checked Kenstyle but it seems as though they don't carry parts for Subaru..

 

Got them from japanparts

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Edited by Zee199969
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  • 2 months later...

Humble Rumble's Humbly-Priced $0.22 Wire Management Solution

 

I wanted to clean up my cabin a bit since cords strewn everywhere looks messy, and also wanted to make the through-hole in the center console a bit more usable.

 

All you need is some Self-Adhesive Cord Clips. I got the ones below in a pack of 100 from Amazon for $5.55, and only used 4 of them, so a cost for the project of $0.22.

 

http://i.imgur.com/iKkKj8Y.jpg

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7BA30G/

 

These adhere pretty decently, but I recommend letting them sit for a little bit after pressing them on just to let the adhesive stick fully. They hold the cords tightly enough to not move around on their own, but loose enough to let them slide through slightly to adjust length and pop out of the clip when you want them to.

 

I put two of them on the flat vertical surfaces of the through-hole, and two of them on the passenger side of the center console. They do not obstruct the armrest closing in anyway, and fit quite perfectly in that little spot. This placement was to my tastes, obviously you can be creative with your placement.

 

http://i.imgur.com/tm2ucU6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/29rnF64.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qXnwGWY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9f2HKUG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pLFUcf8.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160924/a9b49a858288cd2d3659e8a5215aacb6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160924/4ca1935e4a5618897d10f62f6ea217fb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160924/1730cf3dc57b989d6eefc7311c98d531.jpg Nrg Srk 106H short hub, Nrg quick release 3.0, Sparco suede,flat bottom steering wheel. And yes my horn works too. No SRS light, I used the resistors provided with the kit. 2013 2.5i manual 6 speed Legacy.

 

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