trevorno Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) '94 SS 5 speed manual. I pulled the water pump and oil pump. I have to go to the junkyard for a crank sensor and an oil pump bolt (one head was rounded and I used vise grips to get it unstuck). I bought an air filter and thermostat at autozone yesterday. The guy working there was a wee bit jealous when I told him how much I paid for the car. Hopefully get everything back in today. Pulled a sensor and 3 bolts at the pull n save for $3. Gotta love it. Put oil pump and water pump back in. Used gray "right stuff" from auto zone for both. I'm going through a ton of purple power to degrease everything. Edited October 27, 2012 by trevorno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 I hope you got an OEM thermostat. I just buy mine from the dealer. Only $23. Subies are picky. Anything but OEM and you are risking problems. 5MT! Sweet! My SS has a 4EAT. I have a spare SS 5MT that I want to swap in but I gave the SS to my wife for her DD and she likes the auto. If you run into any problems ask away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 just saw this on craigs list. thinking about it if its still avaible. http://southcoast.craigslist.org/cto/3294566134.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 doing bodywork again...my back is killing me but its worth it to see it straight. Tomorrow I'm gonna hit the front corner and throw a two tone with black primer to see which body lines I will use later.http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20121026_144823.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brittcrowell Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Yep, I needed a new bearing! http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=7509 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 i recently just found about the "power" mode... so now i have "power" feature to my trans!!!! plus i have full TCC lock-up control...........oh ya.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Did you do the power mode mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 yup... and a while back i posted that i modified the "manual" switch on the shifter so i have full control of the torque converter lock up.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Oh, cool! So what did you do exactly? I'd love to do this to the wife's SS! I am working on getting some 20G heads and intake mani for her as well. I have the tmic and a TD04, so she should be pretty happy when I install them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 it was quite easy.... the "manual" button conversion i did a while ago is easy too. On the TCU module (under the dash, just next to the steering column), the one 20pin connector thats closest to the front, pin 6 is a blue w/ yellow stripe, that is the "manual" control. I snipped that wire, left at least 1 inch on the pin, and the other side of the wire i connected to a relay to turn the ground signal (which the other end of the blue\yellow wire runs to the switch, which goes to ground) into positive voltage. take the switched side of the relay that is positive and tap into the wire for the torque converter wire... which i believe is the red/yellow??? Dont quote me on that... right now its COLD.... WINDY.... and RAINY..... lol...... I should do a schematic for this................................................. "power" mode is easier.... i took the pin from pin 6 (the short 1" blue/yellow wire) and put that two spots over to pin 4... ran that to a switch that the other side is ground... so flip the switch... that pin see ground.... and power mode is active...... VOILA'!....... lol.... BTW.....IF you do the TCC switch mod..... DO NOT TOUCH THE "MANUAL" BUTTON ON YOUR SHIFTER TILL YOUR AT LEAST 40-45MPH!!!!! once you push the button... the TCC will kick in... and the amber "manual" light on your dash will light up.... I did this mod cause i drive on the highway about 20 miles one way to work, and i noticed the rpm's run about 2700 or so at 65... then when i was about to get off the highway... it was 2200... so i researched and found the tcc doesnt get locked up till it hits a certain temp,,, KILLING mpg.. so i went from approx 17/18 mpg to 25mpg by kicking on the tcc as soon as getting up to speed on the highway...... just got to remember to turn off the switch before slowing down on the ramp....... if ya want pics... gonna have to wait... were getting the effects of sandy here in indiana now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 parked all my subies in the garage last night and away from the hurricane. my house, garage, cars and my bike all made it unscathed. That is good news to hear! There is a guy on nasioc that had his GR crushed by a large tree. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Did valve cover gaskets, more purple power, plugs & wires, replaced crank sensor (hard to thread under the intake) so I tied a piece of para-cord to the old one and pulled it through. It helped but still got hung up a few times. Today I'm hoping to get timing stuff put on and try to crank it over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Just realized today that my inner timing covers are thrashed. New ones won't be in until Tuesday. Frustrating being so close but I can't move on until those come in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 (edited) Washed the SS inside and out. Then I changed the oil for the first time since I rebuilt the 22T. I used 10W-40 this time. I used 5W-30 synthetic when I rebuilt it. The 5W-30 looked beautiful when I drained it. Always a good sign. Getting the oil filter wrench in the right position to get a good bite was a total bitch though. The exhaust mani made a super tight fit to get any purchase. There is a small oil leak coming from the driver's side cam seal. It isn't too bad so I'll fix it later. My new OEM turbo inlet elbow has split and is causing an annoying and semi dangerous boost leak. I used some JB Quickweld to fix it until I install a new custom intake. The repair seems solid. We'll see how long it lasts. I should be installing a new turbo inlet air intake any day now that will never split!!! Edited November 4, 2012 by monkeyposeur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 You'll be suprised how good the epoxys are, I haven't had one fail yet. I had a 6mo old autozone alternator go out on me. It was made in mexico, ac delco builds duralast and apparently their chinese factory puts out higher quality than the mexico factory. Opened the bad one up and every solder inside was a cold solder. Good thing they have warranty, now everything is charging fully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 The OEM PCV to F-Tube connect has a 35 degree angle bend. It was putting a lot of stress on the nipple which caused it to separate. I made a straight connect out of a piece of the PCV tube that goes along the front of the intake mani. I put the boot back on and it is holding fast. The vf11 is spooling nicely again and I could hear the BOV once again. I'm still getting a stuttering/misfire problem though when I punch it. No CELs. I'd love to see if installing my SS 5MT would help with this at all but my wife likes her 4EAT. It's an annoying problem, but if I go easy on the gas the stuttering isn't too bad. When the car warms up it happens less. It could be a lot of things. Exhaust mani is loose, fuel pump sucks, clogged injector, another boost leak... I feel like I am just chasing the problem. When I install a new coffee can intake it may make things better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 The repair is holding up nicely as far as I can tell. My wife can actually pull out into traffic again. I'll move onto eliminating other possibilities for the stuttering soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klickdavis Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Took Remy the hairy poodle to groomers, he loves the cushy fabric back seat. did about 100 miles of post industural/rural Pa roads and back no hurt. dog looks gay with new haircut.... car is waiting for more lifestyle driving tomorrow. Wish it would snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Replaced t-belt tensioner bracket after finding the old one stripped. I tried to tap it out, but discovered it was NOT part of the block. I got a new one at pull n save for $4. Got all the timing gear on and realized I need a new bracked for the alternator to clamp to. Might get it running tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AfterBurner_1 Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 borrowed a trade plate from a friend, dug out the old girl and took for a half hour drive. lamentably it was only a suburban tootle but such is life. found some more issues with it when I washed it later though.... all the rubber tubes or boots that cover the door harness seem to have perished and i'll need to get new ones. also did an electrics test. seems as though a bulb has blown whilst the vehicles has been sitting idle. more parts fro when i make a call to my preferred dealer again i guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevorno Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 FIRED IT UP! Got the alternator tensioner bracket on. Found a matching (almost) rear door from a wagon to replace my dented one. I bolted it on and it looks like the window is different. I'll be swapping window, door handle, and glass soon. I drove it around the block a few times. Seems in pretty good shape. Not bad for sitting for 9 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 My hesitation problem came back after my epoxy repair. I looked under the hood and found one of the purge control solenoid valve vacuum lines had come loose. I stuck it back on and zip tied it. The straight connect PCV line I made seemed a little loose where it connected to the elbow so I ditched the OEM spring clamp and installed a hose clamp. I think that under boost the OEM spring clamp was insufficient. The epoxy repair looks great, BTW. I'm still chasing this stupid put-put problem. It goes away after I fix something, then something else breaks/splits and it comes back, lol. I can't wait to install my new custom intake soon. Hopefully if helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 to sqc151 you need gas lol... just me flexing the chassis on my 94 to see what it can do in my yard. fun times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLiberty Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 I successfullly made it 390 miles to so cal, it was the longest trip since my swap. I was able to get some quality tuning done and must of gained at least 50 whp, wasn't expecting those kinds of gains. I went from getting 18mpg around town to 28 mpg hwy. Mostly, just leaning out fuel zones did it, but its like day and night. Actually scared myself a bit when I got to sea level, tires trying to break tires loose at top of first gear.... time for a limited slip diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crabmanjv Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Put a new purge canister valve assembly in lastnite. Yahoo got rid of my cel and code 35. Best deal around beside junkman (no luck) was parts geek @ 82$ no tax free shipping. came from NJ to Port orchard,WA in 2 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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