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#134: 03-21-2014, 12:24 AM
Engine Seals - Cams and Crank
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How To Replace Crank & Cam Seals

While you're replacing the the timing belt, it's a good idea to get the cam seals replaced and it's also a good idea to pull the driver side AVCS filter out.

Cam and crank seals, ran me about $35 at the local dealer with tax. Love how cheap oem Subaru seals are!

Part Numbers
Crank Seal: 806733030
Intake Cam Seal: 806742160
Exhaust Cam Seal: 806732160

Intake Cam Bolt: 13199AA000
Exhaust Cam Bolt: 13199AA010

You will need to pull the AVCS cover off the intake cam gears to get to the 10mm Allen bolts under.

I tried to break the bolts loose with the belt on, while I was able to get 3 of the 4 cam bolts loosened this way, I wouldn't advise it because you can jump a tooth and bend some valves. Subaru does have special cam tools, but they are very costly and is not a must if you have a spare belt.

These bolts are torqued at about 70-110 ft-lbs, and sadly the 10mm hex drive socket only really comes in 3/8" drive. I broke a few adapters trying to get it to break loose. At the end of the day it's best to buy the 1/2" drive 10mm hex drive socket.

Another way that worked for me is using the 10mm allen key and a breaker bar. I did end up stripping it slightly, since it's Craftsman replacement is free (stick to lifetime warranty tools for this job!!!). By this bolt I started wrapping the belt in unique ways to hold it still, this is the safest way to loosen these bolts, since other cams can sit in their off positions.

Sadly it was too late, I already stripped the insides enough that by the time I got the 10mm allen key it was too late. I dried to drill it out, but there is no room, you can weld lug nut, but I didn't wan to put that much heat on it thus resorted to cutting the bolt off. Once I took one quarter off the bolt head it spun by hand easily!

I finally invested in a seal puller, this is well worth the cost for saving headaches. Intake side is fairly loose thus easy to get the seal puller in.

Exhaust side was a little tricky, try not to scratch the cam gear shaft.

To install them back I simply use a big socket and tap the seal in, to not get it to go in too far, I will usually tap around the seal with the socket.

Do keep in mind that there is this misalignment stock, which could make the seal be crooked.

Crank is by far the easiest to do, just pull the crank gear off and use the puller

Once again, using a socket to punch in, since I couldn't tap the socket around the crank due to low clearance I used an extension to make sure it's flush with the cover.

Driver side cover removed so that I could get to the AVCS bolt, it's really a good idea to pull that banjo filter while you have the cam gears off.

It's a good idea to get new cam bolts since your existing ones will probably be after you are done with them stripped.

Re-tightening the cam bolts requires you to wrap the belt again to hold the cam steady. FSM calls for 22.1 ft-lbs and then 45* more. For intake cams this translates to about 70ft-lbs, for exhaust cams this translated to over 100ft-lbs. I think intake is lower due to oil presence in the threads.

Once I got the bolt to 22.1ft-lbs, I made markings to see how much I need to tighten it more to get 45*.

Reinstall all cam gears, reinstall timing belt and go rest, definitely not an easy job due to the stupid allen bolts.

Last edited by covertrussian; 08-05-2014 at 09:54 PM..