View Single Post
#53: 01-13-2014, 12:46 AM
Brake Bleeding, Diff Fluid Change, Parking Brake Adjustment
 
 covertrussian
covertrussian's Avatar
Title: Boost Junkie
Rank: Donating Member
Location: VA
Car: LGT, FXT, G20+T
Posts: 785
iTrader: (10)
Send a private message to covertrussian Find all posts by covertrussian Reply With Quote
Prepping the car for a long trip figured I would bleed the brakes and check things over.



Bleeding Brakes
You generally want to start bleeding the brakes the furthest from the master cylinder, which on USDM cars is rear passenger side. Then do rear driver side, front passenger, and finally front driver side.


Remove the rubber cap, nice and shiny metal is good, that means the cap is not leaking through. If you remove the cap and find rust underneath, replace the bleeder valve and rubber cap!


Rear takes 5/16" wrench, clear hose (was clear before super blue!) attached to drain fluid and watch for air bobbles


Bleed process itself is simple, have a person pump 3 times and hold the pedal, open the bleeder valve and let fluid drain out, then close the valve. At this point person release the pedal and pump again.

Do this until you get to about half, don't push it too much or you will get air in the master cylinder. Now that you have room add new fluid.


This is where the now banned Super Blue is awesome, it tells you exactly when you have cleaned out the old fluid.


Hawk the master cylinder, don't let it get low.


After you got all of the old fluid out of the rear move to the front. Front takes 10mm flare wrench but in a pickle a regular 10mm should do.


Differential Fluid Change
The car was up anyway, so might as well change out the rear differential fluid.

Spray some PB blaster on the two bolts, let it soak, then use a torch to heat them up. If they are really stuck you will strip the inside of the square bolt.


Remove the fill bolt. Always remove the fill bolt first! If you drain the fluid but can't remove the fill bolt your car will be useless since you wont be able to refill the fluid and take it to a shop.
I use a regular 1/2" breaker bar for best leverage, this avoids stripping the inside of the bolt.


After fill bolt was successfully removed, removed the drain bolt.


Old fluid, probably original, it definitely stank like 100k mile fluid. Raise the front of the car up so that you can drain the most of your fluid.


Clean up the fill and drain bolts, drain bolt is the one with the magnet.


Install the drain bolt, I like to use some rtv for better seal.


At this point you want to level out the car, that way you get the correct amount of fluid in the differential.

Filling it back up is the fun part, without a hand pump you will suffer, so run to your parts store and get an oil hand pump. As for fluid I used Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 synthetic fluid.


Pump the fluid in until you start seeing it pour back out, at this point you are done, no more fluid needed. Put the fill plug back in and you should be good to go.


You will have a bit of oil left, FSM calls for 0.8qt.


Parking Brake Adjustment
I noticed that front wheels spin a lot easier then the rear wheels, part of it is because front has an open differential while the rear has a viscous limited slip differential. Thus while the car was already up, I wanted to make sure the parking brake wasn't dragging.

Behind the rotor you will find a little window with a rubber insert.


Under the rubber insert you will find the parking brake adjustment wheel.


Rotate it up to tighten the brake, and down to loosen it. Make sure your handbrake is disengaged before adjusting.


FSM calls for fully tightening the adjustment wheel then unscrewing it by 3-4 teeth. I found that this wasn't enough and could hear my brakes dragging. I thin it might be time for new shoes...

Last edited by covertrussian; 08-06-2014 at 09:52 PM..