View Single Post
#13: 12-16-2013, 10:20 AM
Invidia Uppipe part 2
 
 covertrussian
covertrussian's Avatar
Title: Boost Junkie
Rank: Donating Member
Location: VA
Car: LGT, FXT, G20+T
Posts: 575
iTrader: (9)
Send a private message to covertrussian Find all posts by covertrussian Reply With Quote
Invidia vs OEM catted turbo end:


Invidia has smooth transitions inside the pipe, it does also have not an ideal taper on header end.



Compare that to the OEM uppipe, it's like it was purposefully designed to suck and reduce power.


Turbo end shows the cat and EGT, notice how poor the transitions are.


Invidia uppie has a bung for the OEM EGT, but oem EGT is meant for checking the health of the cat only, it's too far away to give accurate EGT, plus it can break and kill your turbo and finally I'm hearing they burn up faster without the cat. You will need a hard to find M12x1.25 bolt, parts stores do sell drain plugs in that size for around $5. I was able to find a plain bolt at local hardware store and cut it to fit.



Gaskets, now is the time to replace those 10 year old gaskets...


Getting the uppipe was not hard, but trying to hold it and bolt a bolt up did get tricky, not enough hand room.



I personally tightened the the turbo bolts before getting the header attached, if you keep them loose it might make it slightly easier to get the header installed.



Get new gaskets on the header, and bolt everything up.





Now I didn't realize this until I started looking for exhaust leaks do to a whiny O2 sensor code. Apparently I put the second gasket ontop of the stock one, fitment is perfect and I see no leaks, thus I think this up pipe might actually be a little short, if it prevents cracks I'm all up for it too!


All of this took about 4 hours, rusty parts and stuck bolts is the main reason for why it took so long. I'll do some Virtual Dyno runs in the next few days and will see how it did powerwise, also will see if MPG improves.


Results
Finally did a virtual dyno, I rest the ECU for both runs, and drove the car until IAM hit 1.0 that way timing would be identical for both runs. Waited for another warm day in November and did another run, compensating for temperature, pressure and fuel/toolbox weight. 7whp/10wtq peak gains!


Do notice the AFR dip, this is a stock sensor thus it only reads to 11.1 and even then it's not accurate. I'll have my MTX-L hooked up after I get rid of the P11. Also please note that this is not necessarily the best road for peak WHP (slight up hill), but it's very easy for me to do repeat runs on this specific road. On a straighter road the car is making 213whp.

CEL Fixing
Doing this mod will cause the EGT codes to light up. There are two ways of fixing it, through a cheap resistor mod or by reflashing the ecu. For now I wanted decided to do the resistor mod, but will reflash the ECU with the downpipe.

Resistor route
Get a 2.2-kohm 1/2-watt Resistor (Radioshack # 2711121), what's interesting is, this resistor makes the ECU think the EGT is always at 1292 *F.


Tape it off so it doesn't fall out


Disabling the CEL's through reflash
Disabled these codes in your tune:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0545 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temperature Exhaust Gas)
P1312 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P1544 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High

Last edited by covertrussian; 08-26-2014 at 10:53 PM..
The Following User Says Thank You to covertrussian For This Useful Post:
Merc6 (08-13-2014)