12-15-2013, 10:49 PM
CovertRussian's 05 LGT 5MT Build Thread
Title: Boost Junkie
Rank: Premium Donator
Car: LGT, FXT, G20+T
2005 Subaru Legacy GT 5MT
"Comfortable Daily" Build
Invidia Uppipe Part 1 Part 2
Spark Plugs & Sidegaping
Lightweight Crank Pulley
Stromung Divorced Downpipe
Perrin STI Inlet Install
Engine Bay Inline Fuel Filter
Tank Fuel Filter Bypass
FPR Vacuum Line Relocation
04-07 STI Fuel Pressure Regulator
General & Boost Gauge
Wideband - AEM UEGO
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Banjo Filter Removal
Intake Manifold Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
Throttle Body Gasket
Lower Coolant Crosspipe
OEM Air Filter Replacement
Closed Loop to Open Loop Delay Disable
Timing Compensation Zeroing
Stage 0 Safety Tunes
EMUSA WRX Front Endlinks
Front Strut Bar: JDM STI BL/BP
Front Lowercontrol Arm Rear Bushing: Whiteline KCA334
Whiteline 20mm Rear Swaybar
Centric Rotors & StopTech Pads
Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
Headunit Install Part 1 Part 2
09 Key/Fob Upgrade & Programming
STI Homelink Mirror
JDM DCC HVAC Conversion
General Build Posts
Passenger Front Wheel Bearing, Ball Joint
Transmission Oil, Kartboy STS, Cabin Filter
Brake Bleeding, Diff Fluid Change, Parking Brake Adjustment
Stock Exhaust Size and Aerodynamics
Vac Leak fixing, TMIC, Stock AVCS Testing
Carpet Holder Fixin'
Full Size Spare, Red GrimmSpeed Crank Pulley
Here is a list of common issues found with these cars.
- Turbo Failure around 80k miles - There are two things that can cause this:
1. Subaru used turbo oil feed banjo filters that get clogged and restrict oil flow to the turbo. Failure Example. Here is how to remove all banjo bolt filters.
2. Subaru used a preturbo catalytic converter that breaks up overtime and gets logged into the turbo. Please note 2007+ LGT no longer have cats in up pipes. Failure Example. Here is how to install a catless uppipe.
- Throwout Bearing failure at around 60k miles - The push type clutches have badly designed throw out bearings that will get stuck on the pressure plate and destroy the input shaft's snout. There is a Tranquil TSK3 snout kit, use this if your snout if yours already has damage. Sadly there is no permanent fix, even TSK3 TOB's will fail at about 60k miles.
- Fans always stay on - This on is 5MT specific, the secondary radiator fan relay can damage the ECU causing the fans to always stay on. There is an official recall for this.
- Dual Mass Flywheel - Dual mass flywheels should be shunned from all cars, they are big & heavy and only lead to problems. More info on DMF's. Luckily you can upgrade to 07+ single mass setup (flywheel + clutch).
- Wheel Bearings! - As with all Subaru's, be ready to replace all of the wheel bearings. Allwheeldriveauto.com Did a two part series on Subaru bearings: Part 1, Part 2
- Dual Climate Control is physical tied to Radio - This is a major inconvenience (if you want to user aftermarket head unit) and has issues too. If one fails it takes the other down with him, LCD screens are known to give out on these too. There is a JDM Console Swap but it will cost you around $350 for the whole setup.
- Front O2 Sensor Failure - Seems like the Front O2 sensors fail rather often, this is probably because of the O2 sensor being in before the turbo, thus is exposed to very nigh temperatures.
- Water Pools ontop of Fuel Rail due to Hood Scoop - Due to hoodscoop design water tends to pool around fuel rail/coolant reservoir after raining, example pics here.
- Stock Tune is Lean in Boost - Due to emissions US models have a closed loop to open loop delay, this causes you to be lean while in boost, this causes burnt valves and makes motor more detonation prone. Easily fixable with a tune update.
- Stock Tune adds too much timing for Cylinder 2 & 4 - For some reason 05-06 LGT's add 2.11* to cylinder 2 & 4 which are already detonation prone, 07+ tunes add 0*, FXT/WRX also isn't as aggressive. Easily fixable with a tune update.
- Rear Brake lines rust through - There is a recall, WQK-47, no matter how bad your lines are, if they are not leaking Subaru will just put some wax on them...
- Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Rearward specifically, they tend to rip very easily, OEM ones cost around $15 but don't expect them to last. Whiteline or Avo makes great replacements, plus you can get caster ones. Replacement How To.
- Crank Pulley Disintegration - The rubber/glue on the crank pulleys tends to stop holding and the two parts of the crank pulley separate. Usually destroys a few items while it's at it.
Last edited by covertrussian; 07-30-2015 at 03:23 PM..