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#11: 02-12-2013, 07:02 PM
Title: New Member
Posts: 13
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Hey guys, sorry haven't updated in a few days I've been super busy between work and trying to tackle this headache. I tore into her a little deeper. The short block look amazing. Crosshatches still on the cylinder walls, no glazing or scoring. The bearings were just as good, no significant signs of wear. I also cleaned off the domes of the pistons. They had a decent amount of carbon buildup, but nothing I would deem abnormal for a 120k mile engine.

I dropped the heads of the the machine shop today. After speaking with two subaru specialty shops near me (one of the being AndrewTech, don't know if they're known on here), it sounded like one valve (or two) valves were all I needed. The machine shop I took them to has been around for two generations, and has a VERY high reputation. I've had multiple flywheels done there, and a jeep block bored before. Trust is defintiely established. I told him to check out both heads, let me know the condition of all the valves. He said the burned one really wasn't bad at all. He said he could grind the partner exhaust valve of cylinder one fine, but recommended replacedment just in case it had been overheated or mushroomed or weakened etc, from the first valve getting roasted. He would also set the lash of all the valves with the heads off the block. I questioned this, after reading a few people saying it MUST be done on the block. He said it's not a big deal, and they've been doing it for decades without issue.

So a few misc. questions I have now are:

- Is there anything else I should be replacing while the motor is apart? Oil pump, any internal seals that won't come with the gasket kit, etc.

- Should I replaced the trans (automatic) input shaft seal? The torque converter pulled out about 8 inches when I was removing the motor. I didn't realize it has this gnarly long shaft attached to it, and it was probably resting all it's weight on the seal. Not to mention getting pushed/pulled/jostled around during the motor lift.

- I'm hearing very conflicting reports on the head bolts. Some say replaced them, and get studs. Other say don't even bother unless you're going performance-minded. This is a bone stock rebuild.

- I'm still researching what to do about the turbo. I need this to be as reliable as possible, but also as cheap as possible. A replacement turbo looks to be out of the budget so I'm still pondering a rebuild.

Keep the brainstorming and critiquing coming guys, and thanks thus far!