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#2: 01-29-2013, 07:04 PM
caschmidt's Avatar
Title: Contributor
Location: SE New Hampshire
Car: 5MT swapped 01 LGT, 2.2 swapped 98 BG
Posts: 602
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The next day I took care of a bunch of little things while waiting for more parts. This time I was waiting for the flywheel bolts and the bracket that held the shifter to the trans. I patched up the holes in the exhaust from the harsh salt infested NH winters which was very time consuming. I also installed the shifter linkage inside the car. It was from an 09 impreza so the boots and rubber bits didn't quite match up, but no matter, it fit in after poking some holes and shaving off some foam.

I also took out the plugs that went in place of the subframe for the MT. The MT trans crossmember is much larger than the 4EAT. Even though the MT is smaller, it sits much farther forwards than the AT and it needs a support farther forwards that bolts into the body right near the control arm bolt. There are plastic plugs that pop out. I remembered the bolts for these holes when I took one from the junkyard, you will need them

There are also two similar but smaller plugs just behind the where the shifter comes through the body. These bolt holes are for the bushing that holds the shifter in place. I also remembered these bolts from the junkyard. I believe they are the same size the bolts that hold in the pedal assy, so using some if these not rusty bolts is a good idea.


The next thing to deal with was the starter. Because the trans came out of a newer car, there are 6 or 8 bolts holding the engine to the trans, and the starter uses 2 of those bolts to mount. The older engine I have only has 4 bolts holding the engine and trans together, so we had to make a bolt out of the second hole. Spencebot had a great idea of getting a helicoil. This is essentially in the form of a spring that acts as a thread for a bolt. The hole we had to use was rather large, so we got a tap to thread the hole, and put the helicoil in between the bolt and the threaded hole. It was very difficult to get the helicoil in the threads we made because every time we twisted it, the thing effectively decompressed and wouldn't thread in. After some fancy fingerwork, he got it to work and it was the perfect fit!


After forgetting to buy the clutch bolts (the ones that hold the clutch onto the flywheel) and waiting for them to arrive, We finally assembled the clutch and attached the engine to the 5MT. It was amazing to see how much smaller the whole assy was compared to the 4EAT.

The engine hoist was still operating enough to get the MT in the car. We slowly lowered it down while putting the floor jack underneath the tail to hold it up and roll it back into place while hooking up part of the shifter. Once the engine mounts were settled into the front subframe bolted in the trans xmember to hold up the MT. I tightened all those up and reconnected most of the things on the engine. I put the radiator back in after some struggling. It seemed that the accessories like power steering pump and AC compressor were strangely close to the radiator. Even with the radiator completely attached, the AC clutch rubbed against the fan on the radiator. There was something obviously wrong, this was way off.

I crawled underneath and saw that the shifter was wedged up against the body, forcing the entire engine and trans forwards while twisting the engine mounts. I thought maybe because the shift linkage was from an 09 impreza that maybe it was a different length. I managed to free the linkage but the engine/trans did not move back into place like i was expecting. I was baffled. I could not figure it out. It was obvious that it was not sitting right. The torsion mount (that attached from the firewall to the top of the trans was not even close to lining up.

The next day we got a fresh look at it, and we realized that the Outback not only has higher springs and shocks to make it taller than the legacy, but also has spacers in the subframes that are about an inch and a quarter or 3 cm that separate it from the body. This effectively lowers the center of gravity of the car by lowering the whole drivetrain on the outbacks. The trans subframe I got was from an impreza, which bolted right up. This basically pivoted the entire engine/trans on the front subframe. the tail of the trans was up too high and it was in turn making the front of the engine too far forward. We searched for the whole day trying to find longer bolts that would fit, and spacers to secure it to the body. We found some temporary washers and put it into place.

Later on, we found out that the trans xmember is shaped differently. the front has 2 thick spacers welded to it, and the arch in the back is much shorter. We grabbed one from the junkyard and this was one of the last things we replaced before got it on its wheels. This helped to resolve the shifter being too long as well. I think it is still a little too long, but it fits in and shifts great. Now everything fits the way it should. You can see by the red markings how different the subframes are when they are next to each other. The second pic you can kinda see the thick spacer they used. Sorry for the crappy pic quality


The next day I finished hooking everything up on the engine. I installed the master and slave cylinders and hooked it up to the pedals. We had to wait for yet more parts.... one of the linkages that holds the shifter linkage onto the trans, the one that actually selects the gear, was missing from both the tranny and the shifter linkage. Thankfully we got it without too long of a wait. But there was a piece missing.... We attached it but the shifter was super floppy and definitely not right. I crawled underneath and realized that one of the bolts was moving freely inside the bushing. There should have been a small cylindrical piece that slides into those two blue plastic bushings. It was so frustrating that this didnt come with it. Spencebot yet again came to the rescue and manufactured a cylinder shape by bending a section of brass into the exact shape and soldering it and sanding it smooth. It looks like it should have came with it to begin with, it fit perfectly.

The linkage that we had to order, and the brass cylinder that my friend made


Next we had to tackle the wiring. In my previous swap, the speed sensors were different on the AT and MT. But on this one, the speed sensor (VSS) just screwed out of the auto and right into the manual. No soldering or anything. We had to grab some reverse and neutral switches from the junkyard. The tranny should have come with them but didnt. We then inserted a pin into the blank slot on the ECU and grounded it to tell it that its a manual. This is pin 81, AT/MT identifier pin. We then ran a wire through a hole in the firewall that reads the neutral switch (NSS). This was pin 82 on the ECU. Open circuit means its in gear, and grounded makes it think it is in Neutral. For whatever reason its the opposite on the AT. Typically with a manual swap you need to trick the car into thinking its in P so that the key will come out. Fortunately on my car that part had broken a long time ago, so even with the auto, it let the key out in any gear. iluvdrt on says that you can splice the two wires from the black switch on the auto shifter and it should let the key out. I have not tried this though. As for the reverse lights, it we poked and prodded until we found the wires under the hood. Turns out to be green with yellow stripe and black with red stripe. That we connected to the reverse switch in the trans.

The hole we used through the firewall for the NSS:

The plugs we used and soldering for the NSS and reverse switch:

The VSS wire (left) we had to extend in order for it to plug in. The NSS and reverse wires again (right)