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#6: 10-02-2012, 01:06 PM
 
 cipher_nemo
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Title: Member
Location: State College, PA
Car: 2011 Legacy 2.5i Pr, RRP
Posts: 142
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Congrats!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpw2atox View Post
I live in NY State and I've heard mixed reports on if I need to rustproof the car.....thoughts?
Vehicles should already have their own corrosion protection sprayed on the undercarriage. Don't fall for the dealer "extras" scam of rustproofing or fabric protection.

My uncle works at a Subaru dealer and sold me my 2011 Legacy at just $200 over base cost (he showed me his cost list that he doesn't share with the public). In other words I got a 2.5i Premium model for a 2.5i base price. And he certainly didn't try to push the dealer extras on me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpw2atox View Post
I got the tweeter kit for my Legacy but was considering getting either a sub or a replacement head unit and sub....the question is does the stock 2.5i stereo come with sub support? I don't need amazing bass, I just want something decent.
If you don't get the stock Harman Kardon system which includes a small, cruddy sub (standard for Limited edition or optional for Premium), then you won't be able to easily add a sub. You'd want to change your head unit so that you can run RCAs to an amp for a sub. You could also tack-on an amp/DP that accepts speaker level inputs as well, but audio quality becomes a concern.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpw2atox View Post
I should have the car anywhere from 1-4 weeks as it had to be ordered from Subaru, is there anything else I need to know?
Hopefully you didn't pay sticker price? Any ways, before you accept delivery or pick-up of the vehicle, do/request the following:
  • Make sure you ask the dealer to NOT include any badges or logos of their dealership on your new car. That includes license plate frames, stickers, or actual, foam-tape mounted badges. Of course if you like that stuff, it's up to you, but I prefer no advertising on my vehicle.
  • Schedule the pick up or delivery for an early morning or middle of the day time. You don't want to be rushed at the end of the day.
  • Your new car should be clean and spotless. Glossy tire dressing applied, windows crystal clear, interior freshly vacuumed, etc.; all detailing done. Hopefully you can schedule a time during good weather.
  • Check the vehicle over really well for cosmetic issues (interior and exterior) in daylight, not in a garage or at night. Also check all functionality, from lights to wipers. Look under the hood to make sure it's clean. Wipe your finger on the wheels near the brakes to make sure they're clean. Don't accept a vehicle that has any sort of scratches or flaws in the finish. If there is a flaw or scratch in the paint or blemish on the interior finish, and it's going to bug you, make sure you have them fix it before you sign off on the car. Don't settle for a "bring it in later and our body shop will take care of it". In short: don't let your anticipation of grabbing the keys quickly distract you from near-perfection of your new vehicle.
  • Make sure the mileage on a brand new vehicle is minimal, as in only miles to drive it from one dealership, road testing by the detailing/prep crew, etc. If it has a few hundred miles on it, ask why. You don't want a vehicle that has been shuffled around dealerships too much. And if you do get one like that, ask for a minor cashback or refund. Of course they'll want to refuse that, but your real objective is to use that as a bargaining chip to squeeze some extras out of them like a full tank of gas, service coupons, floor mats (and/or winter rubber mats), etc. Mine had a hundred and some on it since it was shuffled between dealerships a couple times. But that's fine by me since he told me where it has been & how long, since I was getting such an awesome deal, and since I'd have to wait a month more for an order. Expect a little mileage, but not multiple hundreds. Sometimes dealers get to drive the new cars a bit as a perks, so you certainly don't want one of those (reputable dealers will sell those as "dealer" or "dealer pre-owned" cars).
  • A good salesman will be there with you to give you a brief tour of the vehicle. From using the stock stereo to operating controls (ie: lights/power mirror/seat controls, hood/trunk/rear-seat latches, etc.). They should also point out all of the service locations such as washer fluid, coolant, and oil fill points. If your salesman doesn't do this, play dumb and ask for the help to gauge their response. It's also funny to see how well they know the vehicles they sell. I never trust a salesman that doesn't take time to make every sale a smooth, painless experience experience. They should help you every step of the way until you sign off on the car and grab the keys.
  • Also check tire pressures. I've noticed that a lot of detail/prep people don't always do that on the newer models with TPMs installed. Unfortunately the TPMs are really idiot lights, not accurate pressure gauges. Your tires could be low, but not dangerously low and the light won't be on. Tires on vehicles that sit at dealers or staging lots deflate faster than those on vehicles getting use.
  • I'm probably forgetting quite a few more points.