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#8: 07-31-2012, 05:38 PM
 
 DerekDaniel
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Title: Senior Member
Location: Kansas
Car: 2010 forester 4eat NA
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .:Catalyst:. View Post
I'm totally confused by your logic. You are stage 1 - had a few lines pop off at around 17psi so rather than using clamps or such you bought a $1000 TMIC, a turbo inlet, EBCS, and CBE?

Yeah they are clamped now but even clamped I doubt stock tmic could handle 17 psi boost for any reasonable time, and I do not want to have to decrease boost to avoid the possibility of popping this pain in the ass line off again regardless if its is clamped, super-glued and ziptied or eventually blowing the end tanks ad I do not want to puts some crazyass clamps and jb quikweld as a solution.

I highly recommend you do some more research or ask questions before buying anything. For what you spent on the PW alone you could have done a DP, tune, and found a used Perrin or AVO TMIC.

I could not buy all of those parts you indicated for less than a PW tmic, as I do not put cheap stuff on my car. The Avo and perrin tmic are just bigger stock setups still sitting on the tutbo like a turd soaking up heat, unlike the PW set up. Also why does it matter that I upgrade my Tmic before my downpipe? I did not know there was a specific order to modifying a car.

Blowing vac lines isn't fixed with another TMIC. Seems from your first post here that you aren't focusing on a new turbo, but your building your car as if it's going stage 3 within the week.
So I should have just went down to 16 psi boost to quit blowing lines and called it a day? When did keeping air cooler become such a bad thing, regardless if the car is stock or if it has a bigger turbo or down pipe on it?
It is a hundred and hell degrees where I live and I believe this is the best decision to do what I want without spending a ton of money. and still get decent gains from a tune.

Last edited by DerekDaniel; 07-31-2012 at 06:02 PM..