View Single Post
#2: 11-16-2011, 09:45 PM
 
 broknindarkagain
broknindarkagain's Avatar
Title: ProGun & ProLife. So What
Rank: Donating Member
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Car: 93BC - 95BD - 97BD - 98BG - 96BG
Posts: 9,128
iTrader: (8)
Send a private message to broknindarkagain Find all posts by broknindarkagain Reply With Quote
broknindarkagain's Grounding Mod Kit Install

I am writing this kit for the grounding mod kits that I have made and sold, however if you make your own kit or buy one from somewhere else, you can use this guide as a general reference.

In this guide, I am photgraphing a 1994 Impreza L...however the install is identical between it and the 95-99 Legacys.

Time Needed :
10 minutes - 30 minutes
Tools Needed :
Just basic tools. Scissors and a few sockets (10, 12, 13, and 14mms)
Before you even start, lay out all your wires straight on the ground and figure out what wire is what.
Order from longest to shortest
-Passanger side strut tower
-Torque mount
-Driver side strut tower
-Engine block
-Core support
NOTE:
For those of you who are using some kind of grounding block setup, this guide is going to be pretty much the same. The only difference in your install will be how it connects to the battery terminal.
IDIOT WARNING Do not attach any of these wire to the positive (+) / red battery terminal. You will short your electrical system if you do and likely catch your car on fire. Only attach these wires to the negative (-) / black battery terminal.

Step One:
Take the nut off of the negative battery terminal. I suggest leaving the terminal on because it will make your life easier in a little while if its not wiggling around. On this car, I had to pop off the battery cap to get my wrench to fit onto the nut. Its sometimes easier to use a socket to do this...but I had the wrench already in my hand so I did it the hard way lol


Step Two :
I find it a little easier to install starting with the longest wire and working my way down to the shortest.

With that being said, head over to the passenger side strut tower (driver side for those of you overseas). You're going to take one of your sockets and take off one of the three strut mount nuts. After you take it off, sand the paint off thats under it so your wire connector gets good contact with bare metal. If you don't do this, the grounding wire will have NO effect on anything. It MUST have direct metal contact...so Make sure you sand it good.

After you're done sanding it, put the wire over that stud and put the nut back on. Torque it down properly. Now lead the rest of it under the wiper motor and lead it across the firewall by the brake lines. You're going to put a zip tie where I'm pointing at in the last picture. Just ziptie the wire to the brake lines.






Step Three:

NOTE : If you're a WRX, STI, newer Legacy GT, or any other turbo Subaru with a TMIC, you may have to remove the intercooler to access the torque mount.

For 95-99 Legacys, you may have to remove the torque box (big black plastic box) that connects to the throttle body if you're unable to work around it.
Now you're going to work your way over towards the middle of the firewall. Take a look for a dogbone sort of looking thing going from your engine to the firewall. Thats your torque mount. Take the bolt out of it on the firewall side and sand the paint off....install the wire...and put the bolt back in. You're going to run this wire along the brake lines just like the last one. Grab the other line and tie it to the brake lines with the one you just put on. Ziptie locations will be right above the torque mount on the brake lines, and where my finger is in the second picture.




Step Four :
This step is easy. Same thing you did on the passenger side strut tower, but now do it on the drivers side. After you have the wire attached to that strut tower, drop it down under the fuel filter.


Step Five :
There isn't much to this step. Take the wires from the firewall and the other strut tower and lead them along the wiring going between the starter and battery (big wires). Ziptie them along the way and join the driver strut tower wire in there as well. Work your way up towards the battery with them. DO NOT let any of the wire connectors touch the positive battery terminal! Your wires will be following the starters positive wire to the battery. Once you get close to the battery, stop and leave them where they are at.

Step Six :
Now you're going to install your engine block ground. Follow the oil dip stick down and look for whats pictured. Take the bolt off and put the ground wire onto the bolt...then re torque the bolt. Run the wire up towards the battery.

To give you a bit of reference to where this photo is...that black tube going straight up is the oil dipstick.


Step Seven :
Now you're going to run your last wire. Its going to attach to the upper radiator support on the drivers side You can put it under the metal bar, or on top of it...doesn't really matter. But what does matter is that you take that bar all the way off and sand the paint off thats under it. You're going to run this wire behind the drivers headlight and around the driver side of the battery.


Step Eight :
Now connect your wires to your battery terminal like so and torque down the nut.

Don't mind the direction of the wires in this pic. This is actually the first pic for the guide I took lol...so none of the wires were going in the direction they should have been.

Keep in mind that I leave a few extra inches of wire on the kits I make. This allows you to use a grounding block setup a little easier if you decide to do so. If you want to just use the stock battery terminal, than you can just rest the slack wire behind the battery.

Be sure to go through everything and check to make sure its secured and zip tied away from anything that can damage the wiring.


Last edited by broknindarkagain; 12-04-2015 at 03:40 PM..
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to broknindarkagain For This Useful Post:
lulzcow (11-17-2011), monkeyposeur (11-16-2011)