The best mod you will ever do to your 5EAT Legacy or Outback!
The 'HexMods F1' 5EAT Valve Body, with local same-day install Core Option!
........By HexMods LLC
The above video is of WOT in regular Drive.
Please disregard all the lights, there is nothing actually wrong with the car,
I just need to finish a wiring project, low priority.
Sent in from LegacySleeper!
Welcome to the HexMods F1 Package:
- Produces significantly sportier, faster and firmer shifts at high loads, while still retaining comfort under low and mid-acceleration.
- Allows your 5eat to safely handle 350+ whp/wtq power setups with this modification alone.
- Applies significantly faster and firmer shifts so your transmission lasts longer before a rebuild is eventually needed.
- Priced significantly lower than the competition, with the goal of reaching every 5EAT Subaru enthusiast!
For your 2005-2007
Legacy GT and Outback XT 5EAT (5-speed Electronic Automatic Transmission). 2008-2009 products are in the R&D process.
, includes FREE UPS Ground return, or subsidized faster shipping through UPS or USPS!
Flat Rate Return Shipping Options:
- UPS Ground: FREE
- USPS Priority 2-3 Day: $25
- USPS Overnight: $80
- UPS 2-Day / Overnight or FedEx: Please calculate using your receiving address, from zip code 75219, for 20lbs, 15x12x9", insured to $600.
*Hexagram Modifications is not responsible for shipping carrier delivery, damage or loss, but will work with a customer if an issue does arise!
, plus $500 Refundable Core Deposit. (Same as $1089, with $500 refunded to you after your stock valve body is swapped out and returned to HexMods).
UPS Ground return shipping label and a padded HexMods box to reuse for return shipping, so you do not need to worry about packaging!
1) A F1 Valve Body will be shipped directly to you.
2) You or your mechanic removes your stock Valve Body, and installs the F1.
3) You go for test drives, mix of city and highway, all levels of acceleration.
4) Box up the stock valve body, and deliver to a UPS pickup location. That's it!
5) When the stock valve body arrives at HexMods and passes inspection, your core deposit is refunded! See sliding deposit schedule:
- If you possess both valve bodies for less than 15 days: Full $500 Deposit Refunded
- If you possess both valve bodies for less than 31 days: $450 Deposit Refunded
- If you possess both valve bodies for less than 61 days: $400 Deposit Refunded
- If you possess both valve bodies for longer than 60 days: $350 Deposit Refunded
90 DAY MONEY BACK SATISFACTION GUARANTEE!
- Not sure if the F1 is worth it?
If you do not love the way it shifts, I will work with you to get you back to stock, AND I will refund every dollar you paid to me, including my return shipping route(s). Also applies to F1Core (requires new $500 refundable deposit).
No longer is the $4000+ transmission race build required for most medium- and big-power setups!
How to Remove and Install the Valve Body?
To drain and fill ATF properly.
To remove and install the Transmission Pan and Valve Body.
TCU Relearning Note:
The TCU (Transmission Control Unit aka Transmission Computer) requires 100-400 miles to learn the new mechanical properties of the valve body. It can behave awfully weird after the big change until it figures itself out. This is normal. Once it adapts, it is incredible!
A TCU reset is neither needed or beneficial in most instances.
to make your life easier:
-8 to 8.5 quarts of ATF will needed. Acceptable fluid types are 1) OEM Subaru ATF HP, 2) Amsoil Univeral ATF, 3) Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF. Fresh fluid is usually far better than old.
-8mm hex key socket / allen key for ATF drain plug.
-10mm socket and extension for everything else!
-Electric Drill with socket adapter will really speed things up.
-Always have a big drain/drip pan handy to catch all the fluid. When you think it's done draining, you will loosen another VB bolt and it will start raining again. It will drip forever, don't be in a rush.
-Inspect drain plug crush ring. If you are missing it, add one. Uses 18mm copper drain plug gasket.
-All valve body bolt torque specs should be respected. Most important is that they are all even. Don't over tighten!
-Whether working on removing the transmission pan or valve body, loosen all bolts but do not at first remove them. This gives the pan or valve body a few millimeters to separate from its respected mating surface. For the pan, this trick will allow you to avoid ATF splashing (the drain plug does not drain all ATF from the pan. For the valve body, this allows the VB to decouple from the transmission, allowing yet more fluid to drain before removal.
-Separating the pan from the transmission after the bolts are loosened/removed is a pain because the silicone/RTV gasket has glued it on. Use a plastic scraper or trim tool to wedge the pan off the transmission.
-When the pan is off, you will see leftover gasket on the transmission machined mating surface, and on the pan flange. Use a drill and wire wheel to knock off the gasket material from the pan. PICTURE
Use a razor blade to shave the gasket material from the trans mating surface.
-Use Brake Cleaner to clean up the pan and pan magnet thoroughly.
-The VB is held in by 2 different lengths of bolts. Just be cognizant of this and reference the attached/linked PDFs when reinstalling.
-The VB is heavy (18lbs). If you can get a jack with pad under it, that may make your life a little easier for uninstalling it.
-Remember to line up the shift position rod with the transmission shift position cylinder puck when you are installing the new VB in the transmission. It will make sense when you see it.
-For pan re-installation, I recommend Permatex Right Stuff
Gasket, because it dries in a few minutes, and is easy to apply. Put on a ring around the pan, lining the inside (lightly) and outside of each bolt hole.
First and last, use common sense.
Please PM or post any questions.
Valve Body Packaging Instructions (if not using a Hex box):
How much power/torque will my 5EAT be able to handle with a HexMods F1?
- Put valve body in plastic trash bag to prevent leaking of fluid. Double bag just to be sure.
- Wrap VB in A LOT OF soft foam sheets and/or bubble wrap. The most important part to protect is the top of the valve body with all the wires and solenoids. Put extra foam and padding on top of that area, and on the side with the plastic and wires. Pad sufficiently such that the VB is insulated from blunt force impacts and getting dropped on the pavement.
- Place in a box that is sufficiently filled with padding such that there is no room for anything to bounce around. More is better.
- Mark as Fragile if available.
- Private Message me with your PayPal email address, and I will invoice you and send you shipping instructions.
No absolute number is known, or can be known. There are too many variables to make a reliable power/torque claim. So much depends upon the torque converter's response to your power setup. The torque converter magnifies torque especially at lower RPM. This means an early-spooling Stage 2 Legacy and a late-spooling Stage 4 GT35r Legacy could produce a comparable threat to the longevity of a transmission, even though the GT35r produces monster power when compared to a Stage 2 Legacy. This example takes into consideration that the TCU (Transmission Computer) is programmed to apply a certain amount of clamping power per variables such as RPM and MPH. The GT35r may make a ton more power, but the TCU is conveniently programmed to apply more line pressure through the big turbo's high RPM area of operation.
I estimate the HexMods F1
able to handle any Stage 2 setup, as well as any Stage 3 / Stage 4 setup up to 350wtq (all wheel torque), as referenced by what a comparably-setup 5MT Legacy would produce. It can probably handle a lot more, but there is simply not enough hard information to know how 5eats behave at that power level. As with any modifications, the more torque/power you make, the shorter a part's service life will be.
Will I be able to torque brake and launch my car with this modification?
Valve Body modification has no impact upon the strength of the center differential. If you launch with enough torque, your center diff will eventually break. To make it stronger, I sell sets of Bulletproofing 544 Bronze Alloy solid center differential bushings, as were recently produced in a group buy here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...se-160983.html
Have a set custom ordered for $240 shipped!
Will a valve body modification help or improve a partially worn, damaged or slipping transmission?
NO! If you have a transmission with some clutch pack wear due to abuse, improper care and maintenance, high mileage, or excessive engine torque output (from engine modifications), then at best a modified valve body will marginally extend the life of the transmission. However, it could make a slipping condition feel worse, and could make problematic shifting worse. If you have a worn transmission, consider a rebuild or replacement in addition to a valve body modification. If you are not sure whether your transmission is worn, seek the assessment of a local transmission expert. Note that the TCU is designed to learn around wearing transmission clutches, such that it can hide the feeling of wear that would be more evident without computer learning. With engines as with transmissions, you can only do so much to diagnose an internal wear condition without opening it up.
How does the HexMods F1 compare to IPT's Valve Body Modification?
To be objective, IPT charges a higher price, and makes a much fewer number of physical modifications to the valve body. In terms of transmission shift behavior, the HexMods F1
changes gear faster and firmer than IPT's modification. Neither modification significantly compromises shift comfort at low loads. Neither modification addresses certain irritating transmission behaviors programmed into the TCU, such as aftershocks (slam shifts AFTER having gone WOT), shift lag, shift delay, and harsh shifting at startup.
IPT has switched to installing the TransGo shift kit as of sometime in 2011. The TransGo kit is a good kit. See my walkthrough on how to install it yourself if you are a DIY type mechanic.